Good thing I didn't toss this in the trash. 

OK now you have a big job!  Show us a picture when this baby becomes a tree!

Suzi

wow .  That's something to remember.  A spark of life is all it took.

Strong work!

I can see 4 nodes on that little thing.  Still amazing!
I have one snipping that fell into the moss with only 1 node maybe 2" long. 
It grew roots on one side of the node and a little shoot on the same side.  I planted it with the root side down and a little green showing. 

That's the cutest little thing ever! Good luck. Tell me it's Jolly Tiger or Maltese Falcon:)

That's adorable!
Excellent job Ed :)

Hi Ejp3,
Same remark as Pino - 4 nodes and not 1 - that makes the difference .
If I were you, at the top, I would remove the popping figlet .
Good start, lets keep it going :) to production.
Do you know the strain ?

cool, keep us updated as to how it does

It's col de dam gris which has been a notoriously poor rooter for me in the past.  Now comes the hard part, thanks for the encouragement. 

You go Ed!

Yesterday I got some cuttings ready to ship, and some had these little odd branches that would get broken or poke through the padded envelope, so I had to clip them off.  I have several tiny cuttings.  Some in girth and length and others just in length.  All have 2 to 5 nodes.

I'm going to practice and see if I can replicate your success.

 

I've been wondering how or why a fig tree grows nodes close together. Is it a matter of maturity, water, fertilizer? The reason I ask is that my only in-ground tree, a Chicago Hard, put out nodes close together like the one in this thread. I was told to remove the breba crop and then anything new that was over 6" long. I removed the breba, or what seemed to be the breba, but it did not grow with any distance between the nodes.  The nodes were so close together that I could not tell if I was removing breba or not. Is this important? Should I change something? None of the figs matured or ripened last fall. I did not fertilize it, but it was watered pretty much every other day.

milehighgirl, it seems to me that the newest tip cuttings have the closest nodes.  As the shoot grows, the nodes stretch farther apart.  The end of a long branch might have some girth, but it's nodes will be close.  As you travel down that branch, you will notices nodes farther and farther apart.  New shoots will have closely spaced nodes until they also grow long.  If they are clipped from the tree, their girth might be a quarter of an inch, but they still can have 5 nodes packed into their tiny length.

If you were going to take cuttings from an unwanted branch, he tip cutting would have the most nodes.  The next cutting would need to be longer to have 3 or 4 nodes, and so on down the branch.

Hope that helps!

Suzi

had one that was about 1/2" by 1". it rooted and started putting on the green. i made the mistake by planting it in the mud. 

My observation is that the cuttings from inground trees root much better than from the potted figs (at least in California). I have a fig tree in my neighborhood growing on a street (planted) that any its cutting would root regardless of a size. The mold doesn't even have time to develop.

Ed, was it an inground tree in your case?

greenfig, it could be that they root better because they are stronger and bigger!  But I have received many from members who only have potted trees, and they rooted just fine.  I will say that last year I sent VdB cuttings, very fresh, from my in ground VdB to Bobby, and he told me they all rooted.  Every one. 

I have also received cuttings (mid summer) from in ground trees that arrived slimy and rotting.

Dormant fresh is best.  Back to the one inch deal.  Rafed sent me a cutting with two tips.  Main cutting had a strong tip.  Then there was the little shoot off the main.  I cut it off.  Both rooted.  He grows his in pots.  Both had roots.  Both suffered a cruel death in the mother of all fungus gnat attacks.  BUT his container cuttings rooted easily.

Just saying.........

Suzi

Green, it's from a potted plant, don't know if it would survive the winters here.

Hi milehighgirl,, Hi Desertdance,
I have a tree in my neighborhood that has close nodes at every branch - they don't stretch .
I blame it on more than one point :
1. The cultivar - but I don't ask me as I don't know what it is .
2. The lack of care to the tree : no water and fertilizer .

So milehighgirl, if you want the nodes to stretch, give the tree  fertilizer or manure beginning of April ( in my zone at least ) and then by 1st of july and 15th August .
You will see the nodes stretch. Fig trees like to be fed like pigs :) . Don't fertilize after 1st of September - or you may have big die back in the next winter.

If you want the figs to stand more chances to ripen, pinch the tree as of 15th July or 1st August - It's hart breaking but yet effective - for me in 2013 at least.
Now I just need to check how the brebas will come in 2014... - But I was a bit late in 2013 with pinching as of 1st of August - but it was my first try to this technique.
This year I'll try to pinch as of 15th July - if my heart and hands do allow for that :)