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2 questions

Hey Everyone


This is my kadota plant

when i first took it outdoors this summer, i guess it got way too much sun at first, before i realized i needed to transition slowly to the sun

the ugly yellow/brown leafs - do i live them on the tree or do i need to remove them or let them drop alone if ever (they had been on the tree for many weeks now)?

thank you all,

eli

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also, if i am thinking to try air layering a section for some fun and to give away the new plant.
from what i read, it looks like you need to cut away the bark part from an older brown section. (so i am guessing it can not or should not be done on a new green section)
if that is the case, and i was to select one of my side horizontal branches, will the plant be able to support the weight of the zip lock and soil?
i was going to select a more or less strait section to get a nice strait new plant 

is it ok to select to top vertical section (next year when its brown) or will that limit future growth?

thanks again

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It is OK to leave the leaves on. Cannot comment on airlayering, still a newb in that department.
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holy...if you are a newb i might as well just give a cutting later on

i might be well over my head
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I was afraid of airlayering, frankly, so I avoided it for a long time. We all have our deficiencies ;)

I'm currently in process of airlayering a Kadota with a low-growing horizontal branch. I was silly to be afraid. You have nothing to worry about.

See the FAQ thread that is near the top of the thread list and search for "Leon" to see two threads I linked up which should tell you all you need (it was all I needed at least). Assuming you haven't seen them already.
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Eli,

There is no need to girdle the branch for an air layer or to remove the sun-damaged leaves on your Kadota. FYI, the internodal space between your leaves seems wide. Your plant may not be getting enough light. Good luck!
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As far as the "mother" tree is concerned, air layering is just pruning. So, if you want to prune off the top, or main leader, in order to force more lateral branching, then go ahead and air layer that part. But, if you want an upright, vertical form, you'd better leave the main trunk alone, because wherever you cut it you'll get two or more branches sprouting out just below the cut, and you'll no longer have a straight trunk.


If you air layer a somewhat bent side branch, you can always straighten it back out, once you've cut it loose and put it in a pot, by staking it for awhile. Regarding the tree's ability to support the weight of the air layer, if it seems too heavy you can add some extra support. The air layer I posted on yesterday was a horizontal branch that I thought needed additional support, so I bent a strip of scrap aluminum to fit the angle between the main pot and the 2-liter bottle I was using for the air layer. I duct-taped it to both containers and it kept everything secure. Even when I clipped the air layered branch free, it stayed in position till I un-taped the aluminum.
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thank you all


ruben - i think you were correct and this was the case earlier this spring while the plant was indoor. but now that its outdoor - is it still the case? and is there anything i can do to improve the situation now?
its in sun most of the day facing south. i was afraid at first to give it more sun when i saw the yellow/brown leafs...i guess now after few weeks i can just put it in the sun 100% of the time - no? 

as for the air layer - maybe i will give it a go anyways. i was going to use the zip lock plastic method as it seem a little easier ....
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Eli,



It that was my tree, 

1) I would take off the worst looking sun burned leaves. 
2) Stake the main trunk.
3) Raise the soil level. Take the plant out of the pot then add some soil (should be same mix as the previous mix). DO NOT add from the top. Then add 2-3 inches pine park mulch on top of the soil.
4) Fertilize it 2-3 times a month with All Purpose MG fertilizer or Dyano Pro fertilizer (both works fine). Also don't forget the Limestone and some Slow release fertilizer, too.
5) Place it some place that it gets at least 6-8 hrs of sun.
6) I would wait till next season to air layer it. But you can do it now if you want to try.

Is that your only tree?


Navid.
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Ruben,

How would you go about air layering without girdling the branch, slice and tooth pick? 

Thanks,
Barry
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navid - yes it is. at the moment.

i had another natalina tree that turned out to be dead (got some help from few of the members couple of days ago)

i have couple of small cuttings already rooted that some nice fellow from Toronto traded with me 2 weeks ago. I placed an order for some few small plants which i hope to get next week.

as for your advice - 
the other day i saw a picture of some HD construction buckets and pvc pipe, and there was a all page about two pots system -  if i was to raise the level and add fertilize and soil like you said from the bottom, should i also change the pot and go for the other system? or will this do for the time, just add soil, fertilize and mulch like you said.

lime and slow release fertilizer is in addition to the mg fertilizer 2-3 times a months?
if so, about how much of each? 
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Before doing any staking, you might want to read up on it. I't's usually not a good idea, and on your particular tree (tall and thin-trunked) may have exactly the opposite effect you want.


The sunburned leaves may not be aesthetically pleasing, but they're still performing photosynthesis and nourishing your tree. If they get to a point that they're of no benefit to the tree, they will usually fall off on their own.
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thank you ken 

i dont need to fear too much sun any longer, now that the plant has been outdoors for a almost a month
what about this 2 bucket system. do most of you use it at all? is it something i should consider doing right a way, given i will probably add soil and fertilizer as was suggested ?

this spring i had lots of small insects (like fruit flies) i forgot what they are called as a result of moisture....i guess the 2-3 "of  mulch will help with it
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Eli,


You can make those self watering pots using the 5 gallon buckets. Or you can use a regular pot. For self watering pots, you water through the PVC pipe every 2-3 days, depending on the weather. 

Mix the lime and the slow release fertilizer into your soil. 

As for staking,
 
I prefer to have a tree with a straight trunk, not bended or.... and I use stakes with plastic plant ties to train my fig trees. It's important to use a plant tie that is expandable. You should not use Velcro.  

In past I've taken off many sun burned or rusted leaves of my trees, non was harmed. Just yesterday I took off over 90 leaves off my Conadri and VDB, they were either has bad case of rust  or burned badly. It's more of a cosmetic thing. They had not been sprayed in past 6 weeks since I was out of town. 

You seen the pic of my 8 feet tall VDB. I staked that tree since it was only 2 feet tall. It's has been growing fine and produces lots of figs each year. 
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How long does a tree need to stay staked?
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navid - for the lime and slow release fertilizer - do i mix them in with the additional soil i will put at the bottom of the pot 3" or so (what i will be adding as per your suggestion) or do i put it on top on the existing root mass just below the mulch?

thanks
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71GTO,


It depends on you. I stake the fig trees that I grow as trees (not bush), till the main trunk is straight enough. After that I remove the stake. Whenever I am in town I check the plastic plant tie to make sure its not harming the trunk, even it stretches.

Eli,

Mix the limestone and slow release fertilizer together. You should also add pine bark mulch in there too, helps with drainage. Your new soil should be similar to your existing soil, or you will have problems with the drainage. 
After you added the soil to the bottom of the pot, broadcast some lime and slow release fertilizer on top. 
I use Osmocote for all my plants. By looking at the size of your pot (if you are going to keep the plant in the same pot), I would guess that you need to mix, 100-150 grams of limestone and 4 tbs of Osmocote SRF, into your new mix. Then on top broadcast about 100 grams of limestone and 2 tbs of Osmocote.
Before adding the lime you should determine the pH of your existing soil and your new mix. 
Also take it easy with liquid fertilizer for the fist month, since your tree has never been fertilized (liquid fertilization) before, it could harm the roots if too much fertilizer given too often. For the first couple of time I would use All purpose MG fertilizer at half strength, after that you can go full strength if you wish.
I've used MG fertilizer on my fig trees in past and I believe half strength of MG would work fine given every two weeks, instead of the full strength. 


Navid.
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Old tee-shirts make good plant ties because they're soft and stretchy.  When I've wanted to train my little fig trees to grow straight, I attach the trunk close to the stake and watch it, but I don't have that many trees, so that's not hard to do.

Last year, I bought an LSU Purple tree.  When I brought it home, I realized it had no leader on it and the tree was pretty tall and spindly.  I found what looked like the leader which was bent over and staked it up.  This spring, I took the stake out of the pot because it was too short and evaluated the tree.  The leader wanted to sway off to the side, but not like last year, so I left it alone for a couple of months.  I just put a taller stake into the pot and retied the tree to keep the leader upright, but the tie is more loose.  Everything was fine with it and the tree had gained some nice girth all the way up to the top in that past year.  I think you need to keep an eye on the trees if you stake them.

Fig tree wood is softer and more pliable than regular trees, so I think they're easier to stake-train.

noss 

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I like using this stuff:

http://www.dahlias.com/stretchtietape-item832.aspx

It's called "stretch tape", and it's sold at our local Home Depot in the garden section, about $3/roll (150' or so).  I think the brand at our store is "Gardener's friend" or "Landscaper's friend" or "Grower's friend" or something.

Basically, this stuff is ultimately stretchy, you can pull on it and break off off a 4" - 6" piece of it by hand (no scissors needed) and that is a perfect length for loosely knotting a plant to a stake.  It is just stretchy enough that you can barely cinch the knot - if you pull too hard, it will break, which is why it's great for the task - it stretches easily, but given too much force, it breaks.  This prevents girdling of your branches.
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Yes the green stretch tape work excellent.
But
Kinda takes the fun out of cutting up the old underwears and the even the
elastic part worked well for me that season.   ; )

 My thread  " My Underwear Ties"      Link from 2009

Hey just having fun with it all. The green stuff i use now.


http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=3605627&highlight=underwear

Yes they were washed !
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I too use the green tapes. Works perfect without harming the tree.


Haven't used any underwear as ties but I might in future. 
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I personally like pantyhose ties, they work well.  The burnt leaves will fall off on their own.
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