Also, a different comment about the times you've posted.  Interesting that you see 70 days for Ronde de Bordeaux.  Here in central NY, I was seeing RDB taking longer than 70 days.  Maybe because my RDB tree formed the embryos pretty late, so by the time it got into the later ripening stage, the temperatures were getting pretty cool.  But in your chart you show 70 days for Ronde de Bordeaux, and I was seeing more like 80 - 85 days last year.  Probably because it was so cool by the time they were finishing off the ripening.

Mike   central NY state, zone 5a 

Breba, if numerous will delay main crop forming and ripening.
It can be seen better with English Brown Turkey,when breba are left.
English BT will only ripe a couple of main crop ,if Breba is left on,in colder climates.
Of course leaving only a couple of Breba will not retard main crop,on a older tree.

Thanks for posting that Herman.  As far as English Brown Turkey, in my climate I go for breba anyway for that variety.  A good year is when there are lots of breba on them.  Because the growing season is short enough, and the main crop form late enough in the year, it's rare here to ever get main crop EBT to ripen.  (I only saw it happen one year since 1966... for most years with EBT here, breba is the only crop you'll get).  Luckily for me, I like the taste of the EBT breba that grow here.  I prefer them to the main crop.  (Better taste).

By the way, do you consider English Brown Turkey a Mt. Etna type?

Mike   central NY state, zone 5a

I had the large English BT,with copper like exterior,and that isnot a Mt Etna type.
Beautiful color fruits when it get ripe in some years only.
Here is a pix

Herman, were would you place on the list Florea?

Also, are there any figs that could be earlier like 65 and or 60 days?

Bob Harper

Bob,I forgot about Florea.
Florea ,is very early,in a group with Improved Celeste if not earlier.

Herman,

Excellent information as always. I've had trouble with getting some of my in-ground figs to set figs this year, even with pinching and avoiding fertilizing. They're all growing quickly and look healthy but when I pinch they seem to only push out more growth and not little figlets. Any suggestions? The ones in pots in new soil don't seem to have this problem, even though they're also growing quickly.

I'd agree that Florea is earlier than the rest, maybe at 65 days (according to your chart). Last year I was almost able to get two main crops off of it, the first on the first growth flush and then a later crop from a subsequent growth flush.

Tim

Tim:The reason why some cultivars do not form embryos early,and ,keep growing only,is that ,the days average temp. are too low for !!!!!!Bolting!!!!,---Flowering,----,when it comes to late ripening cultivars.
All we can do is remove those new growth,but only after growing about 2 inches and then remove only the new tips,because fruits will grow at the first node on the new growth.
This is needed so the  canopy does not become too dense.
Meanwhile certain cultivars (early ripening),will form embryos the sooner they start growing new wood,because they will bolt out ,Flower ,at lower average temperature.

Today,I have new embryos on :
Ronde De Bordeaux
Improved Celeste(O'Rourke not)
They started at about 2 inches from soil line this Spring,being killed by Frost.

I am still waiting for embryos on rdb that was in a pot (now in ground), it may have some embryos but they are too small for me to say that they are for sure or not.  Black Madeira started a couple weeks ago as did col de dama blanc.  

You must have Madeira black and Col de dame in pot,to have Embryos at this time,because my inground do not have Embryos yet.
Again:It was a cool Spring and also cool June here so,the late cultivars did not have the proper warm days to ,flower here,(grow embryos).
After all,fig fruits are all flowers.

You are correct, both are in pots and both suffered little winter damage and growing well although the Balck Madeira is showing more fmv than it usually does, I will have to prune these branches off and only leave the healthiest ones, not a big deal anyways since I have to root prune next year.  It is strange though as all new growth on it is pushing out a lot of figs, more than it normally has done in the past.

RDB has embryos here.  (Lots of varieties here are making fairly heavy main crop figs).  Aubique Petite has main crop.  Petite Negra has both breba and numerous small main crop fruit.  HC is loaded this year.  Way too soon to tell how all these figs will ripen, but seems a very heavy year for breba and lots of types have main crop.  Peter's Honey has a lot of breba (first year I've seen breba on this tree), plus a lot of main crop forming too, with many of them doubled.  I'll try to post some pictures in the next couple of days.

Mike   central NY state, zone 5a

Excellent thread Herman. My trees with main crop embryos are :

In-Ground trees = Osborne Prolific, Latarrula, Enrico, Nardi Blk, Nebo, Melanzana, Vincenzo, Yugo Yellow, RdB,
Longue d'Aout, Barbillone, Lebanese Red, Hollier, Stella, Gino, Vern's BT, Large Dark Greek, Conadria, Elana, Verte,
Salam Dark

In Pots Outdoor= Florea, Ginoso, MVSB, Aldo, Gieshbul, Cdd Grise, Atreano RR, Flanders, Genoa, Champagne, HC,
Dark Portuguese, Paradiso Bronze, Flanders, Tena

In Green House = O'Rourke, Vasilika Sika, JH Adriatic, VdB, RdB, Morena, Nero600M, Genovese Nero, Atreano OR,
Rosetta(?), Norella

If we continue to have a warm trend, this could be my best year for brebas and main crop. The in-ground trees should like
last year give us plentiful figs. I am very please with O'Rourke last year. It was wintered outdoor in its large container last
season. I moved it into unfinished(re-build) green house late last month and if I am not wrong, every node has a fig. I pinched
its top. Almost all my trees are pinched mainly by 5th leaf except DK.







































































=

July 1:
I noticed new Embryos on:
Violette de Bordeaux
Ischia Black
Sicilian Black
Dalmatie
All 4 started from soil level being killed by Winter cold.
All my trees are inground.

Vasile, was your Kathleen's Black killed to soil level too?  Is it developing figs yet?  Mine (started from cutting July 2012 and put in ground Spring 2013) developed quite a number of figs last year but not in time for them to ripen.  This year it was killed to soil level, put out 2 new shoots from a node at the soil surface, and is now growing like crazy.  I pinched it about 3 weeks ago but all is wants to do is put out new branches rather than make figs!  Almost every node has a new branch coming out.  The other odd thing is that it never, until this Spring, showed any fmv symptoms but the two new shoots show some fmv signs even though it is growing like crazy.

Steve:The  mosaic virus look is because the plant was damaged by frost even below surface.
It is stress not FMV.
Mine was killed down to soil too,and growing fast now.
No incipient fruit buds yet.

Honestly ... Please stop with the "embryos " stuff .. .. Good grief ... Try figlets ..or something else ...burp yuk....

I found now a couple weeks ago what I thought were fig embryos on my rdb but only could confirm last week as they swelled out and took shape.  It looks like the Dalmatie is putting out some embryos and the Negrone for the first time in 3 years in finally putting some on too so I hope it just isn't a tease.  Panachee is as well, Colar also started last week.  Niagara black put them out a few weeks ago and the figs are starting to really swell from embryos to fingernail size quickly with the heat.  Those are in pot trees, not in ground other than the Dalmatie and Niagara black (the one in ground is only a week behind the 1 in pot and was killed almost to the ground, only a few inches survived, dalmatie also was killed to the ground).  

Yes it was a harsh Winter.
The fig trees are late in forming fruits.
I have high hopes that the cultivars that formed fruits up to July 1 will get them ripe.