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Encanto Farms Nursery > Topics > Can I air layer main trunk ?
 
 


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Johnparav

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Posted Reply with quote  #1 
Hi all ,

I have an opportunity to buy a 10 year old fig tree that is beautifully pruned and full of figs from a friend who doesn't know the variety but green outside and white inside and great taste.
My problem is that my garage is 7.5 feet tall and this tree is almost 9 feet . There is 1 main trunk about 2.5 to 3 inches diameter . And the branches start at the 5 foot level . It is in a 20 gallon pot .
I was wondering if I could air layer the main trunk with maybe a 10 - 15 gallon pot sitting on the main pot or a bit higher . This would decrease the height by apx 2 feet and not ruin the shape.
I did this with a 5 foot tree once but the trunk was only 3/4 inch . It worked great and gave me 2 trees.

Thanks .... John
northeastnewbie

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Posted Reply with quote  #2 
John I would just try and bring the top down by pruning it back to fit or build a bigger garage. HAHA the things we will do for our trees is amazing......
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Al Richer
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Johnparav

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Posted Reply with quote  #3 
Hey northeastnewbie ,

I have had to trim the tops of a couple others to fit in the garage but that would basically destroy this tree due to the fact that almost all the branching would be cut away .
But the garage does have a bedroom above it . I don't think my daughter would mind a 4 foot diameter hole in the floor . Hmmm.

John
Chivas

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Posted Reply with quote  #4 
My neighbor pushed her tree over and it's growing sideways really so maybe you pot in on an angle and get it to fit in?
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Ben_in_SoFla

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Posted Reply with quote  #5 
Air layering that tree would set it back several years. I agree with Northeastnewbie, why not just chop the top off and make it fit in the garage. You can also put in on a dolly and wheel it in at an angle. I have air layered crepe myrtles about 1 3/4 inches to two inches, it took a couple of years to get a solid rootmass.
I have air layered fig branches about 1 inch thick and it takes longer to get a rootball than a smaller branch.  I would not mess with air layering the trunk of this fig tree.
If it was my tree I would trim the top or bring it the garage at an angle without any trimming.
Or you can plan where to trim and air layer those branches that you'll be cutting off anyway and have some selling/trading material....
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Ben, North Central Florida Zone 8B - 9
northeastnewbie

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Posted Reply with quote  #6 
I think ben hit it on the head when the tree is dormant just lie it on its side support the main trunk with a saw horse to prevent top damage and let it rest on its side., We dig our trees and knock them over cover them with dirt then dig them up and they are fine.. As long as the tree does not break any top branches let it sleep on its side.
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Al Richer
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The_celt

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Posted Reply with quote  #7 
Cut the roots back and put less dirt in the pot for the winter. On a 20 gallon that's like 1-1.5 feet.
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Ben_in_SoFla

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Posted Reply with quote  #8 
A 20 gallon pot is roughly 18 inches high, I don't see where you have the room to cutback the rootmass and gain any vertical space. Maybe 3-4 inches, I would not remove anymore than that.

Removing any substantial amount of rootmass (unless it's time root prune due to rootbound plant) is flirting with a long setback or worse. 

It all starts with the roots...
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Ben, North Central Florida Zone 8B - 9
Johnparav

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Posted Reply with quote  #9 
Thanks for your input guys.

I can't pass up this tree , I will try to post a photo when I get it . The price is very reasonable .
The owner was going to sell it last year due to the height issue but changed his mind last minute and couldn't part with it.
I might be able to fit it in with my in ground tree in the figloo.

John
Johnparav

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Posted Reply with quote  #10 
Found a pic of exactly what I am talking about .



Link to website.

http://bonsaibark.com/2009/07/31/a-simple-air-layering-technique/

John
leon_edmond

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Posted Reply with quote  #11 
I think you're risking too much by trying to airlayer the tree to shorten the height. Absolutely does not make sense at all to do this. It will eventually put on growth at the top anyway, which will need to be pruned later on.
Just prune down the top as was suggested and go from there.
Johnparav

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Posted Reply with quote  #12 
These are the results of the 5 month air layer I made on the tree to reduce its height .

The tree planted in my yard in May 7 feet tall 2 inch trunk.


Place a pot upside down for airlayer pot to sit on


The airlayer bucket


Cut away about 60% of the way around trunk


Installed bucket and potting soil . put sphag moss around wounded area


Air layer raedy to go


5 months later removed bottom support bucket and ready to cut


Lots of roots


Final product


Thanks .. John
lukeott

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Posted Reply with quote  #13 

John,

You do great work. Looks good.

 

                                             luke
TucsonKen

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Posted Reply with quote  #14 
Very nice job! A big improvement.
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theman7676

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Posted Reply with quote  #15 
looks great john. 
what did you gain in terms of the new height?
what about the old roots / trunk? is that something worth keeping to form a 2nd tree down the road?
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Ben_in_SoFla

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Posted Reply with quote  #16 
Am sure the stump, will explode with new growth in the spring, providing the cold doesn't kill it. Looks to be big enough that it will sprout from roots even is stump dies.

Excellent work, if the only goal was to shorten the tree, you also could have just topped it and forced it to branch in lower trunk. I guess one is as good as the other. Thanks for showing the re-attachment of the bucket around the tree, good to know.
Just goes to show that where there is a will there is a way...
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Ben, North Central Florida Zone 8B - 9
Rob

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Posted Reply with quote  #17 
Very nice work.  I am new to figging and continue to be amazed at how versatile these plants are.  It is really nice to see follow ups to these posts months or years later, gives invaluable knowledge to those of us who don't have the guts to try it. 

I probably would have just placed it on an angle like another person suggested.  But I think you'll definitely get two nice trees from this endeavor and will be rewarded for your risk.
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Johnparav

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Posted Reply with quote  #18 
Luke , Ken thanks.
Eli , the air layer shortened the tree by at least 2 feet . Otherwise all the new growth over 7 feet would have to be trimmed back every year so it could fit in storage for the winter . This tree was 9 feet to start with . This way I managed to keep the shape and bring the branches lower , more of a bush shape.
Ben , I intend on protecting the stump over winter . When I planted it the tree was in a 20 gallon pot ,so there is a large root mass .
Rob , I already had 2 trees of this variety so it was a bit easier to take the risk . But experimenting is half the fun and when we share our experiences , good or bad that's how we all learn . Thats what I've gotten out of this forum.

Thanks ... John
Johnparav

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Posted Reply with quote  #19 
Hi all ,

Here is an update showing the tree ( and the original rootball ) made it through the winter and has about 60 figs on it . Gillette ( breba only tree ) .

HERE IS THE TREE JUNE 1 2012


BREBA


ON THE LEFT ORIGINAL POT ,  RIGHT ORIGINAL ROOTBALL PRUNED & POTTED


NEW GROWTH ON ORIGINAL ROOTBALL ( for Nelson if he still wants it )


John
Dieseler

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Posted Reply with quote  #20 
If it were mine i would wait till its dormant and cut to level were right above those branches and just above a node, next season will bring new shoots at that node and some lower as well.
Keep the scion you cut in dormant season for further winter fun.
Your not going to kill it.
Each season prune as desired .
BronxFigs

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Posted Reply with quote  #21 
John...

Thank-you so much for photo documenting this process, and posting all the photos for everyone to see.  It is really interesting to read all of the varying comments  - pro and con -  for the air-layering process, but even more interesting to see the final results.

I hope the tree brings you great figs.  Really a nice tree.  Good luck and a happy growing season.

Frank
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Johnparav

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Posted Reply with quote  #22 
Hey Martin
I see what you mean . That would make a nice shape . At the height it is now (after the air layer of trunk was done ), and with all the branching I am happy with this tree . But if it gets too big again that would be a good way to go . Thanks for your input .

Hey Frank
I am glad you found this interesting . You're right , the pictures make all the difference , with before during and after the process. Sometimes little things you see in a photo answer questions you don't know you would even have .

John
hblta

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Posted Reply with quote  #23 
Beatiful tree, John.

the little black ones I got from you are doing well

Grant
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Grant
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Johnparav

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Posted Reply with quote  #24 
Hey Grant ,

Thanks . Good to hear Grant . I am trying to propagate as many of those as I can . I want to get that variety out there to as many collectors as I can to ensure its survival . It is that good !!!

John
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Posted Reply with quote  #25 

Man, what a great job and to what an effort some people go through for figs?
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Dave

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Posted Reply with quote  #26 
I also started a main trunk air layer I picked up the tree 2 weeks ago and it didn't look quite as tall at the nursery as when I got it home, the top of the tree has such nice shape I didn't want to start hacking it up if you notice in the picture I added a little window so I could take a peek every now and then to see if the roots have reached the outside of the pot I like the idea of the upside down pot to hold up the layering pot might have to steal that idea LOL 
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Johnparav

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Posted Reply with quote  #27 
Hey Dave ,

Great idea about the window to view root formation . I think I'll be stealing that idea .
Thanks for posting pics .

John
noss

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Posted Reply with quote  #28 

I have an LSU Purple tree I am going to do this with.  When I got it, it had some freeze damage at the bottom of the trunk and it's never done real well, maybe because of that damage.  I am going to air layer the whole tree, as it's not very large.  I cut the top back a bit this Spring.  I can leave the air layer on as long as possible because it will turn into its own plant.  Great pictures, guys.

Really nice trees, too.

John,  What did you use to cut the hole in the bottoms of the pots?  Are the pieces of wood under the upside-down pot for air circulation?

How about you, Dave?  What did you use to cut the opening in the pot?

Thanks,

noss
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Johnparav

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Posted Reply with quote  #29 
Hey Noss,

I used a 2.5 inch hole saw on a drill . The wood is so pot wouldn't sink into the soil.

John
Dave

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Posted Reply with quote  #30 
same as Johnparav a hole saw the same size as the trunk and a bigger one for the window 

Attached Images
jpeg 9210477.jpg (3.07 KB, 4 views)


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noss

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Posted Reply with quote  #31 
Thanks, John & Dave,

We have all sizes of hole saws aroun--IF we can find them.  :/

Re:  The wood--Well, I didn't think of that--to keep it from sinking.  Thanks.

What are those metal plates?  My mind saw them and turned them into duct tape, which doesn't make any real sense, with it being on the inside of the pot like that.  Looks very strong.

noss
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Johnparav

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Posted Reply with quote  #32 
Noss,

You can find the metal plate at home depot . They are for securing 2x4's together , they come in all shapes and sizes for 90 degree joints 45 degree etc .

John
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Posted Reply with quote  #33 
Great thread John! I'm going to try this.
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Dennis
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Johnparav

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Posted Reply with quote  #34 
Thanks Dennis .

Just start it as early as possible if its a big tree and wait till fall to cut it . The roots will keep growing even if the tree drops its leaves as long as doesnt go below 43f or so . Then come spring you got yourself 2 trees .

John
noss

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Posted Reply with quote  #35 
Hi John,

Thanks, I know what you're talking about.  Neat!

We got some of those plates to put at the peak of the roof inside our garden shed to strengthen the roof where the 2 bys butt up against the ridge. 

You can screw those plates on and make a really strong joint that would give a hurricane a run for its money with those.  We also tied the roof down to the walls.  If our house blows away, we can always huddle in the garden shed.  LOL!

noss
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Grasa

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Posted Reply with quote  #36 
these are amazing pictures of great job, guys!
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Grasa
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Posted Reply with quote  #37 
Brovo. very nice. even insperatinal.
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Dave Zone 6b Illinois

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Posted Reply with quote  #38 
Very nice job demonstrating the air layering technique for the main trunk.  I was wondering about the open pot that you use over the airlayered area.  Do you add water to the pot on a regular basis? Also - do you add any liquid fertilizer to the air layered section during the process or just to the main rootball?  I'm planning on giving this technique a try.

Thank you very much.
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Posted Reply with quote  #39 
very helpful post. thank you very much.
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Eithieus
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Posted Reply with quote  #40 


Maybe I can do that to this tree to get the bottom growth to grow.
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Jarrett
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paully22

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Posted Reply with quote  #41 
Good thread. Thanks. Will try it on some tall trees growing in pots.
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Posted Reply with quote  #42 
Bump for a great way to shorten a tree that's too tall.  Thanks to Pete (Bullet08) for finding it and Dennis (Snaglpus) for suggesting it.  I wish I'd known about it before I risked my Panache's crop this year.
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Posted Reply with quote  #43 
That is just incredible! THANKS! Great thread!
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twovkay

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Posted Reply with quote  #44 
Just did this to a tree i cant reach to the top. Thanks for all the helpfull pictures and do you separate the two during the fall? Or after it goes dormant?
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