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ascpete

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Registered: 05/03/12
Posts: 1,847
Reply with quote  #1 
Simple experiment to test the merits of rooting hormone and scoring with fig cuttings. They will be compared to scored untreated cuttings. The fig variety is an Unknown White fig that produced an abundant breba crop last season. All cuttings were taken at the same time (the new home owner cut the tree to 2 foot stubs and cuttings were collected).

Edit: Mike, Thanks for reminding me. Its Dip N Grow Hormone. I have been using it at the same dilution (10X) for all my tests


The test groups are

Hormone: Pictures were taken Day 3, 8 and 14
    A...Scoring "scrape"
    B...Scoring "deep score"
    C...Scoring "slices"
    D...No Scoring

No Hormone: Pictures were taken Day 3, 8 and 14
    E...Scoring "scrape"
    F...Scoring "deep score"
    G...Scoring "slices"
    H...No Scoring

There were 4 cuttings in each group.

The Hormone treated callused sooner, and developed more roots. From my earlier observations with individual cuttings and hormone, the use of hormone seems to reduce my rooting time in moss by 1-2 weeks.

Most of the Hormone treated cuttings are at the stage where I would place them in cups (callused and a few visible roots) a few cuttings have passed that stage.

Inline imageThe No Hormone are not fully callused, but have started to send out a few roots. The scoring seems to increase the quantity of roots and callus formation. One cutting in group E is currently dying at the bottom (brown).

Inline image

Attached Images
jpeg 02_test_cuttings_scored_with_hormone_Day_3.jpg (247.35 KB, 69 views)
jpeg 04_test_cuttings_scored_with_hormone_Day_8.jpg (302.41 KB, 63 views)
jpeg 06_test_cuttings_scored_with_hormone_Day_14.jpg (428.56 KB, 792 views)
jpeg 01_test_cuttings_scored_no_hormone_Day_3.jpg (236.84 KB, 48 views)
jpeg 03_test_cuttings_scored_No_hormone_Day_8.jpg (434.79 KB, 55 views)
jpeg 05_test_cuttings_scored_No_hormone_Day_14.jpg (395.08 KB, 791 views)
jpeg TimLight1.JPG (172.26 KB, 97 views)
jpeg TimLight_after_pruning.jpg (492.54 KB, 62 views)
jpeg TimLight_Fruit.JPG (165.29 KB, 243 views)


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Pete S. / NY,  Zone 6A

ascpete

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Reply with quote  #2 
attached pictures of a larger diameter cutting that was scored and treated with rooting hormone Dip and Grow @ 10X concentration. The cutting had to be moistened to increase the picture contrast. The end of the cutting is callused and has many small roots.

Inline image

Attached Images
jpeg test_cutting_Large_scored_wet_with_hormone_Day_8.jpg (799.57 KB, 53 views)
jpeg test_cutting_Large_scored_wet_with_hormone_Day_14.jpg (446.70 KB, 773 views)


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Pete S. / NY,  Zone 6A

MichaelTucson

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Reply with quote  #3 
Pete -- nice test and nice posting of your results.  What form/brand of rooting hormone did you use?

Mike

<edit>  Ah, you added that info in that second post... thank you.  (Wasn't visible at the time I asked). 

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garden_whisperer

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Reply with quote  #4 
scoring and dip n grow, works like a charm. nice report and great pics pete. i have a few more tricks up my sleeve i am working on as well, ill let you know how things go.

Dave

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Grasa

Registered: 09/07/12
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Reply with quote  #5 
:Pete,  I am curious as the wax dip you put their upper tips. can you elaborate on that? what kind of wax? do you melt it?
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Grasa
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Reply with quote  #6 
Pete, Thank you for doing all this work & posting this result!! I have a few questions about the details of what you did.

a) Did you refrigerate the cuttings for any length of time prior to starting the rooting?
b) Did you "wash" the cuttings (soap and/or 10% bleach or peroxide) prior to starting to deal with any fungus or did you depend on the anti-fungal properties of the moss?
c) Did you follow the Dip'N Grow directions and only dip the bottom inch in the 10x dilution?
d) How deep were your slices?
e) It appears that your scrapes, deep scores & slices were all about an inch long. Is that correct?
f) Do you intend to continue the rooting in cups next onto the transplant into a pot stage?

Great work! Thanks again.
FiggyFrank

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Reply with quote  #7 
You may have convinced me to start using a root hormone.  Thanks for the great pics and details.
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bullet08

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Reply with quote  #8 
with liquid and gel hormones.. it's very tempting. but so far i'm managing it without the hormone.. so i guess i'm good :)
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persianmd2orchard

Registered: 07/11/12
Posts: 419
Reply with quote  #9 
Same as Pete here.
persianmd2orchard

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Reply with quote  #10 
Pete aka Bullet that is! Forgot the OP shares his name.
ascpete

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Reply with quote  #11 
Grasa,
unscented Tea Candles, melted in a 1 quart teflon coated pan (very low melting temperature wax, below 140 Deg F), Ends were dipped several times each, but could also be brushed. The wax cracks and falls off when the cutting swells after rooting, it is being used on stored cuttings only. I have been using Elmer's school glue on the cut ends once in cups to stop them drying out.

DWD2,
a) Cuttings were not refrigerated, but were dormant and have seen lows into the 20's. (from personal observations refrigerated dormant cuttings seem to root faster than non refrigerated)

b) Cuttings were unwashed, I depended on the Sphagnum moss. But I will be sanitizing future cuttings in 10% bleach solution. 1 cutting (without hormone) was attacked by fungus at the score point, it is still salvageable by pruning the damaged piece.

c) Yes and No. I brushed on the hormone up to the second lowest node, covering the scores.
d) Slices were completely through the bark.
e) Yes, the scores were a little over an inch long, between the two lowest nodes.
f) Yes, They will be placed in cups this weekend.

Thanks. I will be starting this seasons cuttings next week hopefully they will  be as successful. They will be sanitized with 10% bleach solution, scored "sliced" with hormone and placed in Sphagnum Moss at 75 Deg F.

bullet08,
The hormone is not necessary, but it increases root volume and decreases rooting time. This should help with the hard to root varieties.



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Pete S. / NY,  Zone 6A
JackHNVA

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Posts: 519
Reply with quote  #12 
Pete, I did a similar test and your results match mine, I had great results this fall with all of my rooting, but the best in terms of huge volume of nice symmetrical roots was using sterilized moss in a shallow tupper ware container, I sterilized the cuttings with Physan20 dilute solution and sterilized the moss using steam for 10 mins. The difference between the two test groups of with and without liquid dip and grow hormones was time. 5 weeks without, three weeks with. I see the need for dip and grow with a rare or tough to root one in my future.
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lukeott

Registered: 07/23/11
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Reply with quote  #13 
Very nice. I like the way you did this testing. I have not had any problems without using root hormones, but it seems your results are proving to show quicker results. I have never done any homework on rooting hormones as using on something that was going to be eaten later. This is a concern of mine, can anyone enlighten me. I like thw wax but question wax on the tip cutting. Do not see the point in it. But this brings up another question. If you say that the wax comes off as it swells and is ready to leaf out, would this help eliminate mold issues?


luke
Chivas

Registered: 09/06/10
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Reply with quote  #14 
I have seen basically the same results with cuttings, some varieties are exceptions but it holds true for about 95% of cuttings for me.  

I don't score my cuttings though, I just dip them in dip n grow and then I put them into a pot filled with pro mix, place them on a flat that is on a heating mat.
I am usually getting around 80% success, that is an average sometimes it is lower, sometimes higher and they are usually coming within 2 weeks to show initials  3 for roots but sometimes it can take up to 6 weeks.

The only problem I have seen sometimes is that the bottom may start to get soft and the bark will slide off with a touch but I have been able to cut this piece off and still get roots about 70-80 percent of the time of that but this is a small percentage when it happens (somewhere around 5-10% of the time, but I am not too worried about it.)

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snaglpus

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Reply with quote  #15 
This is why I joined this forum years ago!  Its data like this that can help another with their techniques and methods.  Great job Pete!  Job well done!

Last year, I started using Hormonex liquid hormone with some crazy results!  Like you, I dip my cutting in wax.  I lady on the west coast turned me on to that tip last year.  I like the scented wax.  To me it deters the gnats.  I score mine and use a water color brush to brush on the hormone.  Great testing and results.....pictures are awesome.

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Dennis
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ascpete

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Reply with quote  #16 

Jack,
I did see your post, great results. I usually pot well before roots start to get longer than 1/4 inch.

Luke,
Rooting Hormone is used commercially for most fruiting plants that are mass propagated. The bottle instructions are a little vague but I believe it is referring to not using on plants that are edible (spinach, broccoli, herbs etc). Stops mold on the cut end and protect the cutting from dessication in storage (cold storage).

Chivas,
The reason to speed up rooting is to also get callus formation as soon as possible. I have observed that once callused there is less chance of rotting. Pre-rooting in moss, moving to cups and growing to the point of potting to 1 gallon, I currently have 97% success rate.

Dennis,
Thanks. I use a cheap flux brush. The wax sealing was posted earlier on the forum. I seal the top cut ends with Elmer's School Glue once cupped, because the wax falls off when the cutting swells and starts growing.


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Pete S. / NY,  Zone 6A
mgginva

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Reply with quote  #17 
Great info. Thanks for posting.
I, too, have found better success this year using un-scored, un-wax coated (although I intend to try wax now) cuttings dipped in Clonex. I will now steam my S moss (a tip originally from Gina) as I've had crazy bad fungus problems. I just received 2 commercial fungicides I'll try as the clorox dipping hasn't been successful.

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lukeott

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Reply with quote  #18 
Thanks Pete. I bought a bottle of rooting hormone because of post by others recently, but have not started my cuttings yet the winter. I started early last year and had a jungle in my house by spring. This is great material. Thanks everyone.


luke
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Reply with quote  #19 
Dennis, I am with you. I have been using Hormex and it is crazy good. Adding the scoring has improved the rooting time and root production tremendously.
omotm

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Reply with quote  #20 
Thanks for sharing Pete.
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ascpete

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Reply with quote  #21 
Michael,
I have not had a lot of mold problem since using the Moss, but am planning on sanitizing the purchased cuttings just to be on the safe side. The scoring seems to increase callus formation, which will increase root formation.

Luke,
Like you, I read a post about using Rooting Hormone and ordered a bottle. the post is located here
http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/Worlds-smallest-Fig-tree-also-how-to-get-roots-in-710-days-6004029
At the time my thought was to use it for rooting green cuttings that I had been collecting.

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Pete S. / NY,  Zone 6A
omotm

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Reply with quote  #22 
Yup, me too.  Got myself some DipnGrow.  Going to use it on known difficult to root varieties and those cuttings which I have a very small number or which are very hard to obtain.
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ascpete

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Reply with quote  #23 
Attached picture of a few of the Hormone treated cuttings at day 16 before putting in cups (will put these in 1 gallon pot).

Note the roots that have grown from the callus that formed on the scoring on the 3rd Cutting (B1), that is 2 days growth, It is the 7th cutting in the Hormone day 14 picture above..

Inline image

Attached Images
jpeg 06_test_cuttings_scored_with_hormone_Day_16.jpg (213.49 KB, 68 views)
jpeg 06_test_cuttings_scored_with_hormone_Day_16_closeup_B1.jpg (382.66 KB, 636 views)


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Pete S. / NY,  Zone 6A

ascpete

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Reply with quote  #24 
Untreated Cuttings before placing into cups @ day 20. Cuttings not fully callused, but root growth warrants potting. Group F (deep score) and G (slice) had the greatest callus formation. Notice fig swelling on cutting H1. This is the end of this stage of the experiment.

Inline image

Attached Images
jpeg 05_test_cuttings_scored_No_hormone_Day_20.jpg (440.96 KB, 626 views)


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Pete S. / NY,  Zone 6A

Nichole

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Reply with quote  #25 
I love this thread. This is the type of data I like to see and read :)
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HarveyC

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Reply with quote  #26 
Pete, just to make sure I understand correctly, when you say you are using Dip n Grow at the dilution of 10x, do you mean 1 part of DnG and 10 parts of water?  Thanks for posting your results!
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NOTE: Essentially all of my figs from 2013 and subsequent have been caprified so fruits may be different than those grown in areas without caprifigs/wasps.

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ascpete

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Reply with quote  #27 
Yes. The 2oz Dip N Grow comes with a mixing cup with their pre-marked recommended dilution (5X, 10X and 20X). You're welcome.
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Pete S. / NY,  Zone 6A
HarveyC

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Reply with quote  #28 
My 16 oz bottle may have come with a cup that I lost but the label suggests 5 to 1 for hardwood cuttings and 10 to 1 for semi-hardwood cuttings.  A greenhouse propagation instructor at a college that made a presentation to a group of CRFG folks said that semi-hardwood cuttings have some flex in them.  Using 10 to 1 gives an IBA level of 1,000 ppm (and NAA of 500 ppm) which is pretty low.  A friend of mine that propagates commercially uses 3,000 to 4,500 ppm and sometimes up to 9,000 ppm which would be about the same as using Dip n Grow undiluted.  One grower of pomegranates in Texas wrote in his portion of a book that he uses Dip n Grow undiluted.  It would have been interesting to see two concentration levels in your experiment to see if it made much difference.  I'm not knocking your work, quite the opposite.  You're much more disciplined than me in getting everything so well organized.
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Harvey - Correia Farms, Correia Chestnut Farm, Figaholics, PurelyPoms, etc. Isleton, CA (Sacramento County) USDA zone 9b, Sunset zone 14

NOTE: Essentially all of my figs from 2013 and subsequent have been caprified so fruits may be different than those grown in areas without caprifigs/wasps.

https://www.facebook.com/Figaholics

ascpete

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Reply with quote  #29 
The first few cuttings that I tried in Hormone developed an extremely large amount of roots. I was more concerned with not burning out the cutting by producing too much roots. I will test a few with a higher concentration, I will be starting a large batch of cuttings within the week. I will post the results.

I still do not know how the cuttings will perform, rooting is only a small portion of the plant's growth.

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Pete S. / NY,  Zone 6A
omotm

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Reply with quote  #30 
Pete,

From your results can you say that deep scoring is better than slices with rooting hormone?  And by better I mean more roots.

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needaclone

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Reply with quote  #31 
Pete,
  I think this is really great work.

  Back in posting #11 you said that you make your scores/slices about an inch long between the first and second node...
a) What's the reason you don't score/slice below the first node and the bottom of the cutting?  (higher chance of rot?)
b) Why don't you score/slice between any other nodes (e.g. to try to get roots growing over more of the surface that will ultimately be under ground)?  (note: posting 2 shows a pic with scores/slices between 2nd-3rd nodes, too, so maybe this isn't a hard and fast "rule" for you.  The node spacing was pretty tight on that one, though..
c) Why score/slice just an inch long?  Why not longer?

Thanks in advance for any insight you can provide,
Jim

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ascpete

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Reply with quote  #32 
Steve,
The deep scores developed large callused ares from which massive roots formed. The slice score increased the callus at the bottom cut end and the quantity of small roots that were formed on the side of the cutting. In answer to your question, the verdict is still out, I will first have to grow out the cuttings to at least 1 gallon plants.

I prefer the slice because it increased the amount of roots without increasing my concern about the cutting expending all its stored energy on forming massive roots.

On the first cutting that I tried the rooting hormone (Desert King), a large amount of roots were formed and only now is a bud swelling to produce leaves. The picture below was taken 12/23/12. its not completely visible, but it was a thick solid mass of roots, on a cutting that was only a few weeks old.

Inline image<edit> You're Welcome


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Pete S. / NY,  Zone 6A
ascpete

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Reply with quote  #33 
Jim, Thanks.
a.  The end of the cutting usually develops calluses and roots are formed on the entire end, So no additional root formation is necessary IMO. note the closeup in post #23. The entire end of the cutting has developed roots from the callus. With the rooting hormone, which is mostly alcohol, there is less chance of rot. I may try a few scores below the bottom node this weekend, and post findings.

b.  I use 16 oz cups. I have tried deeper and larger cups, but it had not been of any benefit. The 16 oz cups will fill with a root ball "plug" that can be transplanted intact very easily. The plug is then planted deeper in the 1 gallon or larger container, and will develop roots on the new area that is buried. The 16 oz plug is usually up potted sooner to the 1 gallon container than larger cups. It is also easier to control moisture in the smaller container

c.  The scores are between the nodes, if the nodes were further apart than 1 inch then the scores were longer than 1 inch. I did not cut through any nodes, because the nodes form compartments within the cutting, isolating the sections.

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Pete S. / NY,  Zone 6A
omotm

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Reply with quote  #34 
Great info Pete, thanks.
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ascpete

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Reply with quote  #35 
Update...2/2/2013

Per my earlier observations the Rooting Hormone (Dip N Grow) has not aided in the growth of the fig cuttings other that decreasing the "rooting in bag" time. There is only a two (2) week difference in the development of the cuttings. There is currently no leaf growth for either group but there is continuing root growth.

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Pete S. / NY,  Zone 6A
omotm

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Reply with quote  #36 
Thanks for the update Pete.
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Reply with quote  #37 
Pete, thanks for the update.  The only issue I take with your conclusion is the use of the word "only" when describing the two week benefit.  That is significant, IMO.  I have over 100 cuttings and want them to get off the propagation mats ASAP so that I can start tomatoes.  If I was a commercial fig propagator, I would want to be moving through product as quickly as possible so I could get on to the next generation.

I'd like to see an experiment with undiluted Dip n' Grow be performed by someone.  A friend who runs a commercial propagation greenhouse uses IBA levels of 2,500ppm to 9,000ppm on different species.  I used Dip n' Grow at a rate of 5 parts of water to 1 part of Dip n' Grow which results in IBA of 1,667ppm and NAA of 833ppm.  Your dilution was twice ad great as what I used.

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Harvey - Correia Farms, Correia Chestnut Farm, Figaholics, PurelyPoms, etc. Isleton, CA (Sacramento County) USDA zone 9b, Sunset zone 14

NOTE: Essentially all of my figs from 2013 and subsequent have been caprified so fruits may be different than those grown in areas without caprifigs/wasps.

https://www.facebook.com/Figaholics

ascpete

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Reply with quote  #38 
Steve, You're welcome.
Daniel, Thanks.

Harvey,
Thanks for commenting. The reason I started using (testing) Rooting Hormone was to get cuttings rooted as fast as possible. I had been collecting unknown fig cuttings and wanted to get them growing quickly. IMO for the average gardener (me), the additional 2 weeks should not be a problem. There may be a few fig varieties that could benefit from the application of hormone to increase rooting percentages, but to date most of the cuttings I have started without hormone in Sphagnum Moss have callused and started to root within 4 weeks.

I believe I promised you an experiment with full strength hormone treatment, I will start an experiment with 12 cuttings using full strength Dip and Grow (6) and None (6). I will Post the initial day 1 pictures today. The same fig variety will be used, and they will be placed in the same location at 75 deg F.

Doug,
Thanks for commenting on your experience. My experience (to date) is that it does speed root formation, but gaining that additional 2 weeks has not translated into two weeks of early leaf growth.



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Pete S. / NY,  Zone 6A
ascpete

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Reply with quote  #39 
Experiment with undiluted Dip N Grow, started today. The grouping is as follows

The test groups are

Hormone undiluted (100%):
    A1...Scoring "single wide slice"
    A2...No Scoring

No Hormone:
    B1...Scoring "single wide slice"
    B2...No Scoring

There are 3 cuttings in each group.

Attached Images
jpeg 01_Dip_n_Grow_full_strength_and_None_Day_1.jpg (227.04 KB, 31 views)


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Pete S. / NY,  Zone 6A

ADelmanto

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Reply with quote  #40 
I just started 80 cuttings (all from the same bush) in sphagnum moss using Dip n Grow at 5 to 1 last night.  I have them with some bottom heat "medium" not sure what that means.  I did not score any but I did cut them at a 45 degree angle.  I'm not sure if that means anything but I figured it would be more surface area for the hormone.  I would like to get these cuttings into 1 gallon pots in 6 weeks so that "2 week sooner root formation" is important to me.  Not using hormone seems a little silly since it is so cheap, effective, and for some people, reduces fungal issues.  I should point out that I have never successfully started any cuttings (of anything, including figs) and I do not know the name of the fig that I have.  I collected it from an Italian Restaurant.  The owner said his grandfather brought it back from Sicily many years ago.  It was growing outside unprotected all this time (NJ zone 6).  It was a very large bush 12x12'.  I have named it Italian Honey "Sorrento"  after the name of the restaurant.  If anyone could help me find the actual name that would be great.  I'll send you some figs and a plant when they are ready.     
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ascpete

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Reply with quote  #41 
Aaron,
The optimal temperature for rooting seems to be between 74 and 80 deg F. You can measure the temperature with a thermometer. As noted above I have been able to get callus and root formation within 4 weeks without hormone if the 75 deg F. temperature is maintained.

Please keep us updated on your progress and good luck.

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HarveyC

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Reply with quote  #42 
Pete, I'm curious why you have less bud growth than I've experienced.  Rots are more important in the beginning than leaves, but I seem to having leaves on most of my cuttings at about the same pace as roots.  Here are two of my plants that are further along, both were prepared for rooting 21 days ago on 1/13:

Genovese Nero



Longue d'Aout

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Harvey - Correia Farms, Correia Chestnut Farm, Figaholics, PurelyPoms, etc. Isleton, CA (Sacramento County) USDA zone 9b, Sunset zone 14

NOTE: Essentially all of my figs from 2013 and subsequent have been caprified so fruits may be different than those grown in areas without caprifigs/wasps.

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ascpete

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Reply with quote  #43 
Harvey,
The cuttings are currently in an unheated room, where the temperatures fluctuate between 45 and 65 deg. F. My current outside nighttime temperatures are between the teens and single digits, and day time temperatures are in the 20's. I have not added any supplemental heating other than that used for the initial rooting and first two weeks in cups.

My comparison is between the two groups of cuttings, all other variables are the same. If they were at 70-75 deg F they would probably be further along. I am almost certain that your ambient temperatures are much higher than mine.

Other older cuttings have leafed out and are growing healthy but slowly, under the same conditions.

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HarveyC

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Reply with quote  #44 
Okay, Pete, didn't realize your cuttings were allowed to go that cool after removal from the bag.  When potting them up I have kept them in my small heated shop (upper 70s) and then moved into my greenhouse where temps have fluctuated from the low 40s to about 90F for the few days they've been in there.  My greenhouse would get warmer but a cooling fan kicks on.  We had frost yesterday morning again so it still is getting pretty cool outside at night.  I'm being fairly aggressive in getting these plants moving along.
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Harvey - Correia Farms, Correia Chestnut Farm, Figaholics, PurelyPoms, etc. Isleton, CA (Sacramento County) USDA zone 9b, Sunset zone 14

NOTE: Essentially all of my figs from 2013 and subsequent have been caprified so fruits may be different than those grown in areas without caprifigs/wasps.

https://www.facebook.com/Figaholics

ascpete

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Reply with quote  #45 
Doug, Thanks for the pictures and info.

Harvey,  I realized that your comparison did not take into account the ambient growing room temperatures. I did not specify them.

The cuttings are developing healthy root growth at these temperatures and I believe they will produce healthy top growth when they are ready (in their own time). My experiment as stated was to compare the two groups (Hormone treated and None) under the same growing conditions.

Note attached pictures of cuttings growing in the same room, same location, in a south facing window. These cuttings were started without hormone, and are about 4 or 5 weeks older, they are in 16 oz cups with a 70/30 cutting mix.
Inline image

Attached Images
jpeg Cuttings_2-3-13_in_unheated_space.jpg (270.97 KB, 29 views)
jpeg Cuttings_2-3-13_in_unheated_space2.jpg (183.30 KB, 431 views)


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Pete S. / NY,  Zone 6A

ascpete

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Reply with quote  #46 
Update: 3/10/2013
Picture is of the cupped cuttings (they were just watered, they're watered once per week). The two trays of cuttings on the left are untreated, no hormone. The two trays on the right (very few with buds or leaves) are the Hormone treated cuttings.

The hormone treated are slower to leaf out.

The ambient Temperature is 45 - 65 deg F. (unheated room) and they're in a south facing window. All the cuttings (32) are still alive and growing slowly. Once the outside temperature increases, I expect the ambient temperature to increase and the growth rate should increase.

Inline image

Attached Images
jpeg cuttings_in_cups_3-10-13.jpg (456.92 KB, 582 views)


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Reply with quote  #47 
Thanks, Pete.  Do the treated ones still appear to have greater root mass?
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Harvey - Correia Farms, Correia Chestnut Farm, Figaholics, PurelyPoms, etc. Isleton, CA (Sacramento County) USDA zone 9b, Sunset zone 14

NOTE: Essentially all of my figs from 2013 and subsequent have been caprified so fruits may be different than those grown in areas without caprifigs/wasps.

https://www.facebook.com/Figaholics

ascpete

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Reply with quote  #48 
You're welcome.
Yes the hormone treated still have a greater root mass than the untreated (none).
But the untreated (none) are slowly catching up.

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ascpete

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Reply with quote  #49 
Update 3/13/13

Picture of Large diameter Hormone treated cutting. Note new leaf buds breaking at the old leaf nodes, three (3) are visible in the picture. There are five (5) new buds total, one at each leaf node. The cutting was just watered with a dilute MG fertilizer solution (1 teaspoon/ gallon).
Inline image

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jpeg Large_Hormone_treated_3-13-13.jpg (118.52 KB, 320 views)


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Pete S. / NY,  Zone 6A

ascpete

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Reply with quote  #50 
Update 4/7/13

Current picture of the Large diameter Hormone treated cutting.

Inline image

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jpeg large_caliper_cutting_4-7-13.jpg (153.78 KB, 496 views)


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Pete S. / NY,  Zone 6A

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