Here are a few pictures of some grafting I've done:

EDIT: I wanted to make sure that everyone knew that I don't have to be the only one posting pictures of grafts in this thread. So please, if you have some pics of some grafting work that you're proud of, post them here so we can all enjoy your handy work :-) .

The above two pictures are a graft of Ronde de Bordeaux that I did. The rootstock was an unknown yellow fig that I rec'd from a neighbor.

The type of graft used is the Cleft Graft. This is the graft that I have used the most so far. I've also used the Saddle Graft. I like the union that the saddle graft leaves better than the cleft, but I used the cleft more because it's just a little simpler. The scion and rootstock don't have to be as close in diameter as the saddle graft does. 

I really thought I took more pictures of the above graft but I must have just neglected to do so. I had intended to take more pics of the entire graft branch as it grew. This branch has since been air-layered and potted up. It's now in winter storage under some mulch in my yard.

Here are a couple of grafts of some Asian Pear that I did:




 

I have several varieties of Asian Pear grafted onto one root stock. I did the multi-graft thing for two reasons.
1; This was the only viable pear root stock I had available at the time :) .
2; This way I have several varieties established in my yard = my way of preserving future grafting material.


Here's a picture of the entire tree. That's  my "Miss Ginger" helping to stimulate the roots on my root stock :-) :

 

Do you do any other type of grafts?

Hey Dom. I attempted a couple of summertime chip buds with figs but they failed on me. Not to say that chip buds are any less successful, just that those few that I tried didn't make it.

The graft I've used the most by far has been the cleft graft. I must say though, I plan to try a few more saddle grafts this spring. That particular graft seems to set a much stronger union than the cleft. But the cleft comes in handy when the rootstock is much larger than the scion you're working with. Only one side of the rootstock cleft needs to line up with one side of the scion cambium.

I have done what's called a stub or stab graft on one of my apple trees. That's where you simply make a horizontal cut in the side of a tree (usually a much larger tree), pull the bark out, and then just stick a piece of scion behind the bark (kind of like making a new branch). The scion is usually cut into a wedge shape so the cambium is exposed on both sides. Then you have to secure it and or seal it in some way to make sure it holds in place well. I also staked mine to protect it from wind damage (made the mistake of not doing this earlier on and lost a few).

That is so neat.  Just a year ago, I tasted my first asian pear.  It's my absolute favorite fruit, but I find they have to be very ripe/soft when picking them out at the grocery store.  Tastes like candy.

Asian pears should be firm and crisp when you eat them
for best taste, not soft like Amercian pears,
but closer in texture to an Apple.

Best way to select ripe pears is by smell,
not firmness.
Sweet smelling and heavy pears are ripe,
if they are cold,  the smell is not as evident.

There are a few different varities on the market
with different skin color, tastes and texture.
If you have a good asian market in your area,
they will have several varities for sale.

You can grow these in your area if you wanted.

Frank. Believe or not I actually got one pear from that tree this past summer. It was the one called Shinseki or New Century. It was on one of the smallest branches but I couldn't bring myself to pull it off. So I just tied the branch up and kept a close eye on it.

After September I checked on it almost every day. I had checked it one day and it was still hanging in there. The next day it was on the ground. So I picked it up, washed it and enjoyed it. It had a nice crispy, sweet flavor. I look forward to more of these as the tree continues to grow.

My camera had died around this time but I think I have some pics of it on my phone. I don't yet have the cable needed to download from my low-tech phone. I have several other fig/fruit related pics on that phone so I need to get the cable soon.

I really look forward to seeing a couple of these pear varieties in particular. The Shinko is supposed to be a beautiful pear and the Korean Giant should be impressive too.

Bill,
I'll note those varieties.  Sounds really good.  Any idea if asian pear trees can grow well in a large pot?  I have a 25+ yr old d'anjou pear tree in my yeard that produces HUGE pears every year.  They're kind of gritty, but pretty tasty when you let it sit for 2 weeks after picking.  I've made some batches of wine that came out good.  I can only imagine how good the asian pear wine would be.

Frank. Just as jack pointed out, Asian Pears tend to be crisp when ripe. Although I've heard that they will soften some if they have a long enough growing season. If you plan to store them though it might be  best to pick them a bit earlier. I've read that some will store for as long as 6-8 months. Would make for some nice winter treats when nothing else is ripe.

Here are the varieties on that tree of mine: 
Top of tree - Shinko
Next two branches down - Shinsheki (New Century)
Next 2 branches - Nijisseki (20th Century)
Next 2 - Olympic (aka Korean Giant)
Then comes 2 more - Shinsheki (pretty sure I have this spelled wrong)
The bottom 2 branches are - Shinko again.

These are the only four varieties I had to work with at the time. That's why there are a couple of duplicates on the same tree. I have another variety that's grafted onto its own tree. It's called Niitaka. I hear that Chojuro is another good one but I don't have it yet.

Hey Bill, wouldn't you think that they need some support so not get knocked off by a bird, rain or strong wind?  also, did you have that done in warmer weather? How long until you could remove the plastic protection?  I grafted in my almost rooted local figs, and noticed that there is a need of a nursing branch for the graft to take off.  Those that I allowed the local (root stock) to leaf out, the graft took off beautifully.  Once I graft, I leave them for a week or so, in the rooting chamber, where is very warm and seems to help the graft work better.    It is a  very good idea. I have some pretty special asian pears scions that I got from a generous member here, and I am going to graft them in my Bartlett pear.  I brought the Bartlett inside the house to get it to 'start' waking up so I can graft. I don't want to loose my special asian pear scions.   The pictures are great!

Thanks so much, Bill.

Grasa, you grow your pears in pots?

Grasa. Yes, there is a chance of a new shoots getting damaged by some critter. Wind is more of a concern to me and I actually lost a couple this summer from wind. I had a Scott's Yellow graft that had put on about 3 feet of growth and it got nearly snapped off. I stood it back up and "re-grafted" it. Wrapped it good with some electrical tape and splints. It survived and grew some more. I wasn't so fortunate with a Scott's Black that was right next to it.
So yes, I will be providing more supports in the future. But I did have many others that did just fine outdoors.

I do my grafting in the spring as soon as new growth starts on my root stock. But I make sure I wait until there's no danger of frost. I've grafted successfully onto in-ground trees as well as potted ones. On most of my trees, I knock off everything that tries to grow below the graft union. I want all the energy going into the scionwood.

I can't recall how long I left the plastic on the graft. I just kept a close eye on them and when they were growing well and it looked like the plastic might be starting to constrict, I removed it and then re-wrapped with Parafilm. Then I just let it go until the Parafilm falls off by itself. This goes for all fruit trees I've done cleft grafting on so far.

Grasa, if you do your grafting outdoors in spring, nature will provide all the natural warmth needed. I guess if I had a greenhouse I might try to start some grafting in Feb instead of April.

If you bring your Bartlett indoors to allow it break dormancy - that's fine, only thing is you have to baby it inside the house until spring. Which is just fine if you're bored ;) . The other drawback is you then have to re-acclimate your rootstock as well as your new graft to the harsh sun in spring. If you wait until you can do your grafting outside, none of that is necessary. 

Thanks for the compliments on the pics. I know it's always nice to see pics of things growing when it's really winter for us right now.

Hi Bill, nice looking grafts. 8 of my first 10 grafts are growing well. I just did 15 bud grafts on fig cuttings that are in the moss now. It seems that grafting the cuttings before you root them works very well. I found the other day that my camera is dead , so as soon as I can get a new camera I will get pics up. The 5 grafts I did on bt root stock have not started to grow. The scions are well covered and still look good so I still have hope ,Rex.

Those are nice pictures.  Do you wrap the graft with anything besides the plastic tape?  Also, do you use any grafting wax?

Chapman. First, I want to clarify. The plastic I use to wrap my grafts is just strips cut from old freezer bags and old pieces of visqueen plastic sheeting. I like the way the plastic stretches good and tight. The #1 drawback is you have to keep a close eye on it so it doesn't start getting too tight as the tree grows. Rubber bands eliminate this concern but I feel that rubber bands often fall off too soon for my liking.

After I remove the plastic, I wrap the graft union with parafilm and leave it until it falls off by itself. Oh, I almost forgot, I also wrap the exposed part of the cutting with parafilm at the time I do the graft. This helps to keep the scion from drying out. I learned that lesson the hard way.

I've never used grafting wax on anything I've grafted so far. But I have used toilet bowl sealing wax on my apple and peach grafts. Only because I had larger cut surfaces that were exposed. The only benefit of using toilet bowl wax is that it's cheap enough and readily available at any home improvement store. 

Thanks for explaining that. 

You're welcome Chapman. You're in a good place to grow some of those great varieties developed for the southeast. Are you anywhere near Durio Nursery? They seem to have some real good ones that have been grown down your way for many decades.

Saxonfig, I am about 75 miles from Durio Nursery. I'd like to visit there sometime and maybe get some other varieties, maybe a Smith Fig.  I'm mainly growing Celeste from a tree that grew on my  Great Grandparents place here in Louisiana.

I've heard a few folks say that Smith is one of the best tasting figs a person could ask for. I hope to get it started in my orchard this year.

Good job Bill,

If you want a branch of Hosui on that Asian Pear tree I can put a stick in with the other stuff when I send

Well Phil, I guess you might be able to talk me into a piece of that Hosui :-) . I hear it's one of the best varieties. What's your opinion? I appreciate you being so willing to share. Thanks. 

Bill,

I will send along Hosui, just another couple sticks in the package:) I have not tasted it yet. I just put the tree in last spring, so did not have it when I sent the other Pear material last year. I am assuming some of these grafts are them. You have good branching established on that tree. The Asians seem to want to grow straight up for me and I am not real diligent about training for wide branch angles and regretting it already. The tree being 1^st year is one of them I hope to try and relocate to my new place within the next 2 months.

 I didn’t get to taste but one Asian pear last year as a late spring freeze after a very warm NON-winter here had everything way ahead and most all my fruit/nut  was lost last year. Even my chestnuts and the only other year they were hit was Easter Freeze 2007.  I did have Fire Blight issues with Asians last year for the first time.  Niitaka had it the worst; Olympic had some hits, but Shinko I do not believe at all. It’s the 1^st year I had major bloom on my young trees and the bees spread FB around.