My new rooting method

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Bass

Registered:1188959030
Posts: 2,428

Posted 1302963821	Reply with quote #1

I've tried a new way of rooting cuttings. On Febraury 20th I took two long cuttings of Brooklyn White. I used these long pots, they're about the same length of the cuttings. I added a soil mix consisting of mostly perlite and some pine bark and peat moss. Cover most of the cutting and expose only one bud. A couple weeks later you can see the bud growing vigorously. By now the cuttings are fully rooted, you can see the roots sticking out of the bottom. As you see, there was really nothing special. More buds covered in the soil means more roots, only one bud was exposed which allowed all the energy went into the growth of this bud. __________________ Pennsylvania http://www.treesofjoy.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Trees-of-Joy/110193909021138

Figluvah

Registered:1297432492
Posts: 1,111

Posted 1302964242	Reply with quote #2

That's great Bass We wouldn't expect anything else from you. Thanks for taking the time to help us! Regards __________________ Cecil (Z 8b?) in the sticks of E.Tx (Elkhart/Palestine TX)

gorgi

Registered:1188888396
Posts: 2,864

Posted 1302967737	Reply with quote #3

Those "Treepots" are manufactured by Stuewe and Sons: http://www.stuewe.com/products/treepots.php I have successfully bought and used (short one) TP49 (4x9.5"), to root more-than-average-long fig twigs before, e.g. cuttings from UCD - less one decides to cut them in half and later claim some 100+% [fautly math] rooting success rate! I used them [pots] for some fat-twigs too. Other Treepot dimensions are available (e.g. 4x14"). One retail source: http://www.charleysgreenhouse.com/index.cfm?page=_productdetails&productid=8681 Two advantages I see are: (a) pots are loongish (compared to volume), and (b) pot sides are fluted, which helps new roots not to circle around... [Edit: One minor disadvantage (TP49); the bottom holes are rather too big for me, needed to place some soil-blocker; e.g., a piece of pine-bark or just a 2 sq". piece of paper-towel] A word of caution! These pots will incur some more $$ expense, and other (cheaper) proven fig rooting pots/cups for 'normal' cuttings should not be ignored/discarded... __________________ George, NJ_z7a.

robertharper

Registered:1236730861
Posts: 369

Posted 1302972856	Reply with quote #4

Good looking plants Bass. How often did you have to water before they started to leaf out? Bob

Bass

Registered:1188959030
Posts: 2,428

Posted 1302973218	Reply with quote #5

Once every two days, but they were kept in the greenhouse where it's not dry like indoors. __________________ Pennsylvania http://www.treesofjoy.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Trees-of-Joy/110193909021138

Bass

Registered:1188959030
Posts: 2,428

Posted 1302974140	Reply with quote #6

Find a dairy basket the one used for milk cartons, you can put up to nine. They sell holders for them but are very pricy. __________________ Pennsylvania http://www.treesofjoy.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Trees-of-Joy/110193909021138

gorgi

Registered:1188888396
Posts: 2,864

Posted 1302982862	Reply with quote #7

Treepot Trays also do exist e.g., TP49T (I have none) holds 12 TP49 pots: http://www.stuewe.com/products/treepots.php If one already has (or can scourge) one of those plastic milk crates, it will also very snugly hold 12 such pots. __________________ George, NJ_z7a.

georgek

Registered:1290902577
Posts: 53

Posted 1302994838	Reply with quote #8

Bass What is your success rate on these pots. How many have you tried George

Registered:1252379847
Posts: 1,162

Posted 1302995801	Reply with quote #9

Bass, What did you put them in after the TP49? And that growth was only after..."a couple of weeks"? JD __________________ jd \| tallahassee.fl \| zone 8b

rafed

Registered:1252876934
Posts: 5,308

Posted 1302997150	Reply with quote #10

Been looking for these type of containers, thanks Bass and Gorgi. Bass, Everyone mentions their skills, methods and ingredients and posts their success or failure on the forum. One thing I don't see mentioned all too often is the volume of water being used ( if any ). I know there are some including myself using mini greenhouses to provide humidity and moisture to reduce the need to water. But what about during the time you are potting up the roots? Are you soaking the pot with water and let it drain or are you just giving it just a bit?

snaglpus

Registered:1244258188
Posts: 4,072

Posted 1302997821	Reply with quote #11

I like those pots Bass. I also use the 12 inch Uline bags for long cuttings. Works like a charm. __________________ Dennis Charlotte, North Carolina/Zone 8a

Bass

Registered:1188959030
Posts: 2,428

Posted 1303043841	Reply with quote #12

The frequency of watering depends on many factors. The soil, the quick draining soil means that the cuttings will require more frequent watering. I use a quick draining mix to avoid molding. It consists of perlite, pine bark fines, small amount of peat moss. The humidity, the drier the growing area the more frequent water should be. The humidity in the greenhouse is around 70%-80%. Once the cutting develops roots and leaves the soil will dry up quicker, you may need to increase watering. Whenever I water I soak it until the water comes out of the bottom. Again the soil is important that it needs to have good drainage. The bottom line with watering you have to understand your plant needs. George, My success rate was 100% but I only tried it with about 4 cuttings. __________________ Pennsylvania http://www.treesofjoy.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Trees-of-Joy/110193909021138

robertharper

Registered:1236730861
Posts: 369

Posted 1303131139	Reply with quote #13

Bass, I think the long deep pots you used present a more attractive product. How long can they stay in pots that are that narrow without becoming root bound? Bob

loslunasfarms

Registered:1189011868
Posts: 380

Posted 1303148384	Reply with quote #14

I have the whole collection of tree pots. They work very well. I use the long tall ones and root them directly. I no longer waste my time with paper towels. After 150+ trees, they seem to have more will to survive than I give them credit for. I stick cuttings in a well draining potting soil I put together and I usually have 80%+ success.

satellitehead

Registered:1257988353
Posts: 3,687

Posted 1303349195	Reply with quote #15

Have any of you guys using these tall pots with huge sticks cut the stick in half after it's well-rooted? Just curious if the bottom half of the stick would root, leaving you with two trees. __________________ Jason Atlanta/Grant Park area - z8

james

Registered:1189185103
Posts: 1,653

Posted 1303597747	Reply with quote #16

Hi Bass, I'm not sure how relevant this is to your method. This year I went from baggie to ground. I most of the cutting in the ground and then most of the remainder with mulch. Many cuttings were completely hidden from view. Some of the cuttings had branch development from the lower nodes. Those have started to surface from the mulch as much as 6" away from the original cutting. I'm sure if your cuttings branch below the surface, the branches will find their way to the surface. If they have to travel too far from the bottom, they may be still buried when you repot and could be damaged. ~james __________________ In containers - Littleton, CO (zone 5b) In ground - N.E of Austin, TX (zone 8b) 2016 Wish List: Dārk Pōrtuguese, Grānthāms Royāl, Lātarolla, Negrettā, Nōire de Bārbentāne, Rockāway Green, Viōlet Sepōr, Viōlette Dāuphine. Iranian figs are always welcome.