I have used various methods of rooting cuttings over the years each with their own pluses and negatives.  Last year most of my cuttings were rooted in spagnum moss in a baggie then into styrofoam cup poked full of holes and then those went into a covered bin. I had a high rate of success but it is too much work.

This year I rooted half of my cuttings using my new method which is a variation of other rooting methods.

1. I cut the cuttings to 4-6 inches with at least 3 nodes.

2. I add about 20% more perlite to Promix BX and dampen it until it is moist but still fairly fluffy.

3. I take an old takeout container or plastic shoe box(with lid) and lightly bury 5-6 cuttings horizontally. Then the containers get stored in a warm and dark location.

4. After a couple weeks, I start checking for roots. I am waiting for them to break through the mix about an inch. I don't disturb the soil until I see solid root formation.

5. Once there are nice roots, I take the cutting out and leave the others that aren't ready in the container. The rooted cutting goes into a 1/2-1 gallon pot containing same mix. I only leave one bud above(less than 20% of overall cutting) the soil line. If the bud already broke I bury the whole cutting to keep the baby leaves and branch from leeching moisture.

6. The pot goes under grow lights or window. No humidity box needed. I noticed that the buds break slower with no humidity box but the roots develop faster to support impending top growth.

My success rate is very high with this method and alot less work and root disturbance as the cutting comes out very easy from loose soil.

The benefits are:

1. Less work

2. Less wasted material(styrofoam cups, bags, spagnum moss) Last cutting in container reuses mix

3. No rewetting soil while rooting

4. No big humidity bins and airing them out

The negatives are:

1. Once rooted, the plants take up more space. Next year I am going to look for better pots.

4.

I've been using a very similar method and had a good success rate.  I like that it's easy and straightforward with very little need for extra materials, like you mentioned.

I really like this idea and have done something similar outside later in the spring. I have just started them right in 1 gallon pots and then don't have to worry about losing them from up potting. The problem for me indoors is the space it takes.

@Tim,

I use the same shoe boxes, but also like take out containers because the top is clear and I can just look real quick to see any root development. I also don't mix cultivars. Did you ever have to remoisten the soil? I have done 10 boxes with no rewetting so far.

When I was using spagnum moss sometimes the roots would tangle and it would be a pain to separate them. And then the roots stick to the styrofoam cups in the next step.

@Possum_trot,

Space is the issue for me too. Next year I am going to find something in the half gallon range and preferably deeper vs. wider. Possibly squarish shaped too.

Have you used Promoss? I think that I can get some of it.

I also use similar method, with a plastic bucket and only perlite. I cover the bucket with a plastic bag. The perlite is damp almost dry to the touch. I open for fresh air once in a while.  It is easy and this method never failed me like the baggy one.

I think I found my rooted cutting pot for next year. The 5x5x7 square pot by hydrofarm. They have vents and will fit in a priority mail box. They are a little pricey but they seem perfect for what I want.

Update:

This is my permanent method! After a few seasons worth of trial and error, this works for me! I have lost only a few cuttings not through rot or mold but I just gave up after 2 months. They looked fine just didn't root.
A note on moisture level of mix. The mix should be moist and fluffy. It should still be crumbly, if it is mushy it's way too wet.
When filling the containers, don't pack the soil down. Keep it light and fluffy. That way the roots come out very easily.
The hydrofarm pots work great, you can bottom water them and they are space efficient.
Fungus gnat note: I wasn't thinking and brought a few pots inside that were outdoors. Make sure to bare root and repot any trees coming inside. I was gnat-free until I brought the outside pots in. So now I have get some mosquito dunks.

Jason, great tips, and fast too, thanks.

This post is really for my records but I will share the results with the forum. Today I started my 6th batch of cuttings. I am trying some new rooting media one is 50/50 sphagnum peat moss/ perlite and the other is 100% perlite. There is a rookie advantage to perlite because you can't over wet it. I also sealed the cut ends with wood glue.
I will set this up like a step by step for my newbie friends.

1. Seal the ends of high value figs with glue or wax(optional) and write their names on them with a Sharpie
2. Loosely fill the plastic box half way with media
3. Put cuttings in and lightly cover in media and close cover. If cover or container is clear cover them up.
4. Come back in 2 weeks and check.

Great info, Jason.  I think I will try a batch with straight perlite, then one with peat moss/perlite and compare to my current sp moss method.  I'll report back to see what worked best for me.

greetings

This "covering method" seems like a good way to keep cuttings from getting too dry, and possibly less moldy. Roots should naturally reach out into the growing medium of mixed perlite and soil. wonder what the optimum growing temperature would be? Any ideas? Between 70 and 75 F?

FiggyFrank- I normally use Promix which is peat, perlite, and some other additives but I am running low and I had a large bale of peat sitting in my garage from my Carnivorous plant mix. I used to use long fiber sphagnum moss in baggies but sometimes the roots get tangled in the moss and was a pain getting them out undamaged. Also that stuff is messy and it was another thing I had to buy. Please keep us informed. Alway like tinkering even with proven methods. Pics please!

Maro2Bear- I haven't had a moldy cutting using this method. The trick is to completely cover the cutting in media and don't let it touch the plastic where moisture can build up. Putting the cover on tight= no remoistening the media. That means no rotting cuttings from overwatering. I keep my house at 70 degrees and the cuttings root in about 2-5 weeks for me.

I also don't disturb the cuttings until there are roots popping out of the media. When that happens the roots are 1-4 inches long.

This was just pulled out today and potted up.

In a clear shoebox bin I mixed mostly perlite with a little vermiculite, and very little sp peat moss.  Added some water just so the mix was slightly damp.  A thin layer on the bottom, then cuttings, then a thin layer on top of the cuttings.  I placed them on my water heater pipes.  I'll update within a week or two.  Let me know what you think Jason.

I like it as long as it is dark down there and not too hot on the pipe. I keep mine in a dark box in my office that is about 70 degrees. Definitely update us on your progress.

Jason, thanks for all the info and your updates. Much appreciated.

I don't know if I should have should have started a new thread but I have a few questions regarding potting  a cutting which was rooted in water. I received a few cuttings from my wife's friend awhile ago. I placed 2 in containers with water (Dec. 18) and the rest in plastic boxes with sphagnum moss. I'm about ready to pot the ones in water but always heard that water roots are much weaker/fragile than ones started in soil, perlite, or moss. Should I do something different when potting these water started rooted cuttings? Go to straight perlite for awhile or sphagnum moss with alittle soil? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. As you can see, the water roots are really taking off.

Just a little background on these cuttings. An Italian friend of my wife gave me the cuttings. Originally from Italy more than 50 years ago (her grandparents brought it over). Don't know the type but she says it's a "purple fig", very sweet, and produces a ton of figs. It's a huge tree (I've only seen pictures) so I guess that's why it produces great. I was hoping after the leaves sprout a little bigger, the forum members might be able to help identify this fig.

Thanks,

John G.

Water roots can be fragile in the sense that some may break easily when potting for the first time.
My relatives used to root fig scion in water.

Jason, this is an informative thread indeed.  I just did some research on Pro-mix which have never used before and is difficult but not impossible to find in my area.  Pro-mix BX comes in at least three types: with mycorrhizae, with fungicide, and with both mycorrhizae and fungicide.  Which type have you been using?

Hey John just a thought why don't you just add your potting mix directly into the water and displace the water that way the roots stay right where the are and then drill/poke holes in container to drain off the water make like a muddy mix and once the holes are in it the water will completely drain off.
And just keep adding material until the container is filled with potting mix.

Anthony,

That's actually not a bad idea. I might give it a try on one of the two I have in water. Do you think I should place a humidity dome over it once the water is drained sufficiently?

I use Promix BX with myco

John it couldn't hurt but I don't think it is totally necessary play it by ear keep an eye on the leaves if they look like there going limp then def humidity is needed.

The perlite/vermiculite/soil mix is working nicely.  It's mostly perlite.  These were started 8 days ago and I was able to transfer 3 cuttings to cups tonight because of good root growth.  I covered the cuttings with about a 1/2" of mix.  The bin that was sitting on the water heater showed the most activity.  NO MOLD at all.  Very happy with this method.  The cuttings easily come out of the mix without tugging roots.

Nice job and nice roots!