The last cutting has finally completed the experiment. Attached is the final table of results. Through out this thread, I have noted some results backed by the data of this experiment, I will not repeat them at this time. I plan on summarizing (as I get time) the results, observations, recommendations and lessons learned in a concise "white paper" and update the .pdf with pictures so stay tuned if you are interested. I will continue to update results post-rooting. I have already posted the data on growth rates. I have collected data on survival rates from rooting-potting-30 days and will post this as I clean it all up.

Steve,
Great work. I know that the final papers will be worth printing. A keep sake for sure.

Thanks Ricci. BTW, the Atreano, Ventura, Paradiso, Gillette and Smith are all potted and are looking good so far. I lost the Lemon and Kathleen's to mold and the Papa John is still in the bag.

Attached are some photos of the Bella - Unknown cuttings from the experiment under the grow light. There are also some Armenian cuttings (thanks Gorgi) as well. Three of the Bella and two of the Armenian are already spoken for. If anyone is interested in trade or paying S/H there are a few available. In trade I'm interested in some Sal's (EL or Corleone), Hardy Chicago or any exceptional figs that might do well in containers in Northwest NJ. Send me an email if interested.

All - OK, here it is. Attached is the first revision of the Fig Rooting Experiment write-up for your review and comments. Please feel free to ask for clarifications if they are needed and if you find any errors or omissions please identify. I welcome any and all dialouge and feedback. Thank you all for your contributions and help.

Also remember, I'm looking for homes for some of the cuttings as identified in the previous posting.

Steve,
Wow is an understatement. Thank you for such information.. This template is a great model, for all who may attempt to root their cuttings in the future.

I will have to print a copy and bind it for reference.

Thanks again.

Thanks Jazz...

I hope it is helpful. I learned a lot from both the successes and failures and hope others can too.

Good summary of good work, Steve.
You assigned sub-article 2.3 to pre-chill. You mentioned its benefits scattered in some other discussions but, in my view, it will be helpful to the readers if there was a separate sub-paragraph in the 'Lessons Learned' summarizing the conclusions related to the pre-chill.
It will also help if you add how to prepare properly for pre-chill storage to avoid possible dessication, mold etc resulting from improper packing for pre-chill storage.   

Very good points Ottawan and thank you for taking the time to read through it and give some feedback. I will add a Lesson-Learned as you suggest. In short, the pre-chill did benefit the rooting process - resulting in shorter rooting time when brought into the heat. The one week chilling had no significant benefit but the 4 week chill did. What I can not tell (a future follow-up maybe) is if the pre-chill or the dormancy helped more. Also, I wrapped the cuttings for the cold storage just as I did for rooting. I may try just sealing in plastic wrap next time because I don't know if this contributed to some of the mold issues I had in one of the groups.Thanks again.

Steve,
group A caught my eye , just to clarify you had a total of 2 sticks or ?

Also did you do the growth rate for that group A.

Im curious

I only had 4 cuttings from the prior season's growth and used 2 in group A and 2 in group C. Only one actually rooted but boy did it grow. I gave that one away early on but it was by far the most vigorous of the bunch. It is just very difficult to draw any conclusions with a sample size of 1 - It would be interesting to re-run those groups with a larger sample.

Thanks Steve,
yes thats seems like great results for that 1 to grow like it did, just cant help but think if you had more what the end results might have been. I also think those were great rooting results (Gillette , Atrean, Ventura and a few more) You really cared for those plants and gave your time in this experiment.
You sure did a fine job and hope the kids enjoyed it.
Also many thanks for shareing it with us.

The kids enjoyed understanding the variables and participating in the experimental set-up. Of course they lost interest during data collection but were interested again when results were obtained. They are young and impatient. I certainly had fun.

Dan,

I stored the cuttings during the pre-chill at 38F which is far too cold for rooting. The purpose of the prechill was to test what I have read in some places that this has a benefit to rooting results. So I set up complimentary groups that were chilled not at all, for 1 week or 4 weeks. From the rooting times you can see that the longer chilling time resulted in a shorter rooting time as measured from when they were first brought out of cold storage and into the nursery (what I considered the beginning of the rooting process). So clearly, the prechill did have an effect. You can also see that for the longer chill periods, the standard deviation is less, meaning that particular group had more consistent results. Finally when you look at the hardwood results, you can see that the pre-chilled had a higher success rate. So, there was a definitely a benefit to pre-chilling - it gave a higher success rate, less variability and shorter time (from start to rooting).

I have also rooted "summer cuttings" and they were successful. This does not conflict with the experimental results.

Dan

I certainly agree with your last statements. Of course the experiment was not 100% perfect but I think some of the fundamental conclusions are sound and backed with some measured data:

• hardwood cuttings out perform softwood cuttings (overall)
• softwood cuttings, although faster rooting, are less robust
• the pre-chill period had benefits to the rooting results

I have updated the Fig Rooting Experiment document with some minor clarifications and a few added Lessons-Learned. Thanks to those that gave me feedback. Please feel free to comment further.

Thanks again Steve. Much need information.

I'm running a small follow-up mini-experiment based upon some questions I received from those who read the Experiment write-up. In the experiment, I used water bottles as rooting containers because they were convenient and readily available for me. They also had nice clear plastic to view root development but were small in volume and I think may have contributed to the later failure of some of the cuttings because they needed to be transplanted to soil early and not enough root ball was established.

I recently received 12 California Brown Turkey cuttings from svanessa and they are starting to put out roots. I've decided to address the question of going into vermiculite/perlite verse going straight into soil (augmented Al's mix). I obtained some 24 oz clear cups that offer more rooting volume and will use these for this follow-up experiment. Half of the cuttings will go into verm/perl and the other half will go into soil. All other conditions will remain the same as in the original experiment. I'd like to see if there is any difference between the 2 groups related to post-rooting success.

Steve,
always nice to read your post on your experiments and look forward to reading somemore posts.

So far 7 of the BT cuttings have rooted and I am alternating between putting them in Vermicullite/Perlite (V/P) and soil. The first one rooted at 23 days and the most recent ones at 31 days - about half are now rooted. The early ones are showing roots at the sides of the cups and seem to be doing fine.

Interesting observation about these BT cuttings - three of the rooted ones put out roots on the top most nodes rather than at the lower nodes and one put out roots at the middle node. Although I have seen this on occasion before, I have never seen this happen so frequently as with these cuttings. One even put out roots above a large leafy branchlet almost at the "crotch" between the cutting and branchlet. Interesting how the "rooting habit" of these cuttings is different than others.

Steve,
curious when you say 7 have rooted the first ones after 23 days, does it mean that your starting to put the 23 days ones in cups as of today and one more question please i know you have your hands full with a lot of cuttings you must be busy but can you give me an idea about how long the roots are on the ones after 23 days.

Martin,

The first cutting rooted after 23 days (baggy method) then the others at various times up to the most recent at 31 days (today). Half of them have not rooted yet. After each one rooted (1/8-1/4 inch roots) it was moved either to soil or V/P in the 24 oz cups. Roots have been observed on the cuttings in cups after about 4-5 days.

Remeber, my objective is to see if the V/P vs Soil makes any difference AFTER they have rooted. They are all being rooted by the same baggy method. Just giving some updates along the way.

Thaks Steve no no i was just making sure i was following you correctly .
Thanks Steve i didn't want to get lost. Please keep us psoted along the way!

No problem Martin - I was trying to be concise and didn't know if it came across that way. I'll update as interesting stuff happens.

Steve you are very consise, its on my end of understanding things sometimes. I always read well but its comprehending what i read and remebering things is the hard part for me.
I look forward to seeing aome pictures in future if you decide to post any.
Best Health