Rooting Experiment: Using Alcohol to aid root formation

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ascpete

Registered:1336096379
Posts: 1,942

Posted 1360990045	Reply with quote #1

Has anyone else tried washing fig cuttings with rubbing alcohol?, and observed increased callusing of the treated cuttings? <EDIT> Do not wash with Alcohol!!! It seems to kill bacteria including the benificials, but not all fungal spores. An initial reason for contemplating the use of alcohol was to reduce mold growth. I had one large caliper cutting that had possible mold growth and had been already treated with hormone ( 1 week in moss), instead of starting over I brushed it with alcohol. It did not appear that there were any ill effects from the alcohol exposure after being potted in a cup. After observing the increased callus formation of the hormone treated cuttings, I decided to including alcohol as a test variable. An observation of the Hormone comparison tests that were performed,is that the hormone treated cuttings developed calluses quicker than the untreated cuttings. Once cuttings callus they almost never rot (in my experience). The main components in the Dip N Grow other than Rooting Hormone is alcohol. Date: 2/3/2013 I applied 50% isopropyl rubbing alcohol to several cuttings (and let them air dry for a few minutes) then placed them in damp sphagnum moss @ 76 deg F. They were compared to cuttings started at the same time which were treated with Dip N Grow hormone @ full strength (100%, undiluted). Experiment with undiluted Dip N Grow. The test groups are Hormone undiluted (100%): A1...Scoring "single wide slice" A2...No Scoring No Hormone (50% Alcohol wash): B1...Scoring "single wide slice" B2...No Scoring There are 3 cuttings in each group. *The callus formation on the Alcohol Treated cuttings was greater that that of the Hormone Treated cuttings at 1 week.* The Hormone treated cuttings had more "primordial root formation" but less callus formation on the bottom/treated end. I will post pictures at the 2 week point for comparison.

Nichole

Registered:1333814555
Posts: 878

Posted 1360990782	Reply with quote #2

I love your methodology. Look forward to the results. __________________ Seattle area - Zone 8b http://www.niroha.com Fig Inventory https://sites.google.com/site/nicholesgardeninventory/fig-trees Wish list: Barbillone, Black Triana, Brooklyn Dark, Brooklyn White, Figo Branco, Figo Preto, Grantham Royal, Grisse de St Jean, Honey Jumbo, LSU Gold, LSU Scott's Yellow, Matta, Noire De Caromb, Panevino Dark, Roja, Syrian Long, Uncle Corky's Honey Delight

hoosierbanana

Registered:1287901146
Posts: 2,186

Posted 1360990784	Reply with quote #3

I use rubbing alcohol on orchids for scale sometimes. The alcohol molecules are too large to get into the leaves so they cannot do damage that way. The danger is that because alcohol evaporates so fast it can actually cause frost damage to the plant. Imagine how cold your hand would get with alcohol if was not heated and thin as a leaf. So spraying to saturate is not recommended, I use it to wipe leaves. I don't know how much that applies to cuttings but hope it helps. __________________ 7a, DE

ascpete

Registered:1336096379
Posts: 1,942

Posted 1361002036	Reply with quote #4

Nichole, Thanks. I just try to be observant. Brent, I don't actually know if or why the alcohol may cause the callus (scab) to form sooner on the fig cuttings. from my rooting experiences last year, If the cutting is callused and has primordial root formation (initial root bumps), before placing in cups, losses were kept below 2%, and none rotted. The cuttings are fully dormant (no leaves or roots), and the alcohol has not done any noticeable damage to the cuttings and evaporates within minutes after application.

bullet08

Registered:1284496248
Posts: 6,920

Posted 1361015370	Reply with quote #5

i thought it was about drinking fine single malt or something while putting the cuttings into a baggie or something. but interesting idea :) __________________ Pete Durham, NC Zone 7b "don't talk to me about naval tradition. It's nothing but rum, sodomy and the lash." - sir winston churchill "the problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money." - the baroness thatcher *** all my figs have FMV/FMD, in case you're wondering. * * and... i don't sell things. what little i have will be posted here in winter for first come first serve base to be shared. no, i'm not a socialist...***

baust55

Registered:1240892043
Posts: 497

Posted 1361039449	Reply with quote #6

GOOD IDEA ! Thanks For sharing ! AUSTIN __________________ AUSTIN Read more mad non- scientist stuff ....check out my post on KITTY LITTER ! http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/kitty-litter-really-kitty-litter-7398708?pid=1287129765#post1287129765 "I grow fruit of the wine!" Zone 5 Fig trees I have : Hardy Chicago , Weeping Black , Ginoso , Excel , VEBT , and Genovese Nero . My Wish list: Panache, Florea,Desert King , RdB, Marseilles black vs, Vdb , Abruzzi, JH Adriatic , Nero 600 , MvsB, Malta Black,

garden_whisperer

Registered:1353347580
Posts: 1,613

Posted 1361041200	Reply with quote #7

i got a 12 year old bottle of scotch maybe that would work (for me not the cuttings) ;) __________________ Dave Zone 6b Illinois "Be the change you wish to see in the world"

baust55

Registered:1240892043
Posts: 497

Posted 1361041908	Reply with quote #8

YES DAVE NEET WITH JUST A TINY SPLASH OF WATER __________________ AUSTIN Read more mad non- scientist stuff ....check out my post on KITTY LITTER ! http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/kitty-litter-really-kitty-litter-7398708?pid=1287129765#post1287129765 "I grow fruit of the wine!" Zone 5 Fig trees I have : Hardy Chicago , Weeping Black , Ginoso , Excel , VEBT , and Genovese Nero . My Wish list: Panache, Florea,Desert King , RdB, Marseilles black vs, Vdb , Abruzzi, JH Adriatic , Nero 600 , MvsB, Malta Black,

ascpete

Registered:1336096379
Posts: 1,942

Posted 1361333803	Reply with quote #9

Attached Pictures of Hormone treated (on left) and Alcohol treated (on right) cuttings at Day 1 and Day 15 At Day 15 the Alcohol treated cuttings have not developed as much callus as the Hormone treated (note the callus formation in the scores), But they have "root primordia" (root bumps) erupting along their entire length, similar to the Hormone treated cuttings. Inline image Attached Images 01_Dip_n_Grow_full_strength_and_Alcohol_Wash_Day_1.jpg (227.04 KB, 41 views) 01_Dip_n_Grow_full_strength_and_Alcohol_Wash_Day_15.jpg (418.95 KB, 487 views)

noss

Registered:1244523274
Posts: 2,122

Posted 1361352369	Reply with quote #10

Do you find putting wax on the top ends helps the cuttings keep from drying out and what kind of wax is that? Thanks, noss __________________ noss/a.k.a. Vivian Lafayette, LA Zone 9a Wish List: Col de Dame Blanc, Col de Dame Noir, Scott's Yellow, Tony's Brown Italian, any other fig that is good in the rain/humidity and has a real figgy flavor.

ascpete

Registered:1336096379
Posts: 1,942

Posted 1361371408	Reply with quote #11

Yes, it definitely keeps the cutting from drying out. I use melted unscented Tea Candles, they were waxed for long term storage. It usually falls off once the cutting starts to grow (swell), I then apply Elmer's School Glue on the cut end to keep the top from drying out. Grafting wax would probably stay on longer, but tea candles are available at all discount stores.

baust55

Registered:1240892043
Posts: 497

Posted 1361378638	Reply with quote #12

the wax is a good tip . thanks AUSTIN __________________ AUSTIN Read more mad non- scientist stuff ....check out my post on KITTY LITTER ! http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/kitty-litter-really-kitty-litter-7398708?pid=1287129765#post1287129765 "I grow fruit of the wine!" Zone 5 Fig trees I have : Hardy Chicago , Weeping Black , Ginoso , Excel , VEBT , and Genovese Nero . My Wish list: Panache, Florea,Desert King , RdB, Marseilles black vs, Vdb , Abruzzi, JH Adriatic , Nero 600 , MvsB, Malta Black,

HarveyC

Registered:1212433117
Posts: 3,294

Posted 1361382352	Reply with quote #13

Pete, I've used Dip 'N Grow since I bought it a few years back and had it on hand. But I've had reservations regarding it's use since a couple of commercial propagators have said to avoid alcohol which is known to kill plant cells. Dip 'N Grow includes alcohol to serve as a steralant, I believe, not as a rooting aid. What does your hormone treatment consist of? (i.e., if IBA, how many PPM?) __________________ Harvey - Correia Farms Isleton, CA (Sacramento County) USDA zone 9b, Sunset zone 14 http://www.figaholics.com https://www.facebook.com/Figaholics

ascpete

Registered:1336096379
Posts: 1,942

Posted 1361389463	Reply with quote #14

Austin, You're welcome. I was just following a few leads from Older Posts. If you do a search you will find more information from experienced members on the subject. Harvey, This experiment was actually prompted by you! You had asked (on another topic) about an experiment with 100% (undiluted) Dip n Grow. The Hormone treated cuttings in this experiment were treated with undiluted Dip n Grow Rooting Hormone. The Alcohol treated were added as a test group for my reference. 50% Isopropyl Alcohol doesn't seem to affect the cutting's ability to produce roots. Also the sterilizing affect is one of the beneficial aspects that I wanted to utilize. This test was to see if alcohol increased callus formation.

HarveyC

Registered:1212433117
Posts: 3,294

Posted 1361391999	Reply with quote #15

Pete, from what I've been able to determine, isopropyl alcohol can dehydrate and, possibly, kill plant cells. I don't believe there is anything in is actions that should benefit rooting of cuttings other than the sanitizing of the cutting. One comment I found online in my searching made it sound potentially more harmful, but I didn't see support for the comments. Maybe I'll try to copy your experiment and include a sample for use of IBA without alcohol. I've been sanitizing my cuttings with 10% bleach and then air drying so I don't think any further sanitizing is needed. __________________ Harvey - Correia Farms Isleton, CA (Sacramento County) USDA zone 9b, Sunset zone 14 http://www.figaholics.com https://www.facebook.com/Figaholics

HarveyC

Registered:1212433117
Posts: 3,294

Posted 1361411594	Reply with quote #16

Not that much alcohol is required to dissolve the IBA. Their MSDS shows they have both ethyl alcohol and isopropyl alcohol, but I don't see what percentage. Based on the smell, it seems fairly high. http://www.dipngrow.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/DipN-Grow-MSDS.pdf __________________ Harvey - Correia Farms Isleton, CA (Sacramento County) USDA zone 9b, Sunset zone 14 http://www.figaholics.com https://www.facebook.com/Figaholics

noss

Registered:1244523274
Posts: 2,122

Posted 1361435451	Reply with quote #17

Thanks, Pete S. What is IBA? noss __________________ noss/a.k.a. Vivian Lafayette, LA Zone 9a Wish List: Col de Dame Blanc, Col de Dame Noir, Scott's Yellow, Tony's Brown Italian, any other fig that is good in the rain/humidity and has a real figgy flavor.

HarveyC

Registered:1212433117
Posts: 3,294

Posted 1361436530	Reply with quote #18

IBA is short for indole-3-butyric acid, the most commonly-used auxin or hormone to aid in the rooting of cuttings. Dip 'N Grow also has half as much NAA, or 1-naphthaleneacetic acid. I've read some statements that IBA with half as much NAA is most effective but I've never seen a study to support that. As I wrote above, I've known commercial propagators to just use IBA. __________________ Harvey - Correia Farms Isleton, CA (Sacramento County) USDA zone 9b, Sunset zone 14 http://www.figaholics.com https://www.facebook.com/Figaholics

ascpete

Registered:1336096379
Posts: 1,942

Posted 1361440809	Reply with quote #19

SCfigFanatic, Thanks for commenting. noss, You're welcome. Harvey, I had not found the alcohol concentration on their Website or the MSDS, that's why I opted for the 50% Alcohol (and it is readily available at local stores). As to the alcohol content of the Dip n Grow, diluting to manufacturers recommendations should pose no threat to the cuttings (they would be out of business if if did :) I have not washed any cuttings that I have started to date and have lost very few in the rooting stage to mold (pre-rooting in Sphagnum Moss method). From my earlier "hormone and none" test all the cuttings (16 and 16) are currently growing in 16oz cups and a few 32oz containers. Event the one untreated cutting that developed mold at the score point, it was trimmed (to 2 nodes) and returned to Sphagnum moss, where it rooted and is now in a cup. Also 8 of the 32 are currently leafing out. I also thought that if scoring (without hormone) increases root production, treating with alcohol would decrease any chance of mold growth at the score point. The alcohol treated score points are currently swelling and slowly developing calluses, which is an early validation, but more testing needs to be done. As far as my conclusion on Hormone, It works to increase callusing and root growth on every fig cutting on which it has been used. Even at full strength the alcohol content has not damaged the cutting and the large calluses have developed a large number of initial root growth. I think that for figs, a lower concentration (more dilute mix) would probably also work to promote increased root growth.

HarveyC

Registered:1212433117
Posts: 3,294

Posted 1361464037	Reply with quote #20

Thanks, Pete, I appreciate your disciplined work on this. I'm not convinced that the alcohol does not cause some level of damage, but it might be very minor and offset by benefits, mainly sterilization. __________________ Harvey - Correia Farms Isleton, CA (Sacramento County) USDA zone 9b, Sunset zone 14 http://www.figaholics.com https://www.facebook.com/Figaholics

dkirtexas

Registered:1341345900
Posts: 1,334

Posted 1361468052	Reply with quote #21

It appears that any root hormone with IBA uses alcohol as IBA does not work with water. The following verbage came from Wikipedia. Plant hormone IBA is a plant hormone in the auxin family and is an ingredient in many commercial horticultural plant rooting products. Since IBA is not soluble in water, it is typically dissolved in 75% or purer alcohol for use in plant rooting, making a solution of between 10,000 to 50,000 ppm. This alcohol solution is then diluted with distilled water to the desired concentration. IBA is also available as a salt, which is soluble in water. The solution should be kept in a cool, dark place for best results. This compound had been thought to be strictly synthetic; however, it was reported that the compound was isolated from leaves and seeds of maize and other species. This chemical may also be extracted from any of the Salix (Willow) genus. ^[1] __________________ Thx, glad to be here Danny K "EL CAZADOR DE HIGO" Waskom Tx Zone 7B/8 Wish list: anything anyone wants me to have. LSU RED. Any LSU fig.

HarveyC

Registered:1212433117
Posts: 3,294

Posted 1361471555	Reply with quote #22

Danny, as I wrote above, it does not require very much alcohol to dissolve IBA and then make it water soluble. Similar to GA3, I imagine, which states to mix it with enough isopropyl alcohol to make a paste and then mix with water, so less than 0.5% alcohol in final solution. There are also IBA products available that are already made water soluble. You can find 98% water soluble on eBay, that's what I'm working with now. Cost me about $1.40 for mixing up one large batch of 2500ppm IBA. __________________ Harvey - Correia Farms Isleton, CA (Sacramento County) USDA zone 9b, Sunset zone 14 http://www.figaholics.com https://www.facebook.com/Figaholics

ascpete

Registered:1336096379
Posts: 1,942

Posted 1362613463	Reply with quote #23

Update Note attached pictures at Day 22, 2/25/2013Inline imageAs of today 3/6/2013 the alcohol treated cuttings have grown buds while the Hormone treated are still growing massive roots but have no buds showing. There is also a noticeable difference in the root strength of both groups, the Hormone treated are stronger and harder to damage. The Alcohol treated (non hormone treated) are easily damaged, removing from the Sphagnum Moss damages about 10-20% of the roots. Attached Images 01_Dip_n_Grow_full_strength_and_Alcohol_Wash_Day_22.jpg (461.11 KB, 359 views)

JackHNVA

Registered:1352380899
Posts: 519

Posted 1362617099	Reply with quote #24

A quick dip in alcohol will kill any mold, spores and fungus, but the cell wall break down in the soft tissues at the cut ends can die if the alcohol level is too high. Dehydration at the cell level is destruction of the actual cells. Clorox (10%), sodium hypochlorite (1%) or hydrogen peroxide (50%) may be used for surface sterilization of plant tissues. Zoom in on the cut top ends on the ones dipped in alcohol and see if there in ring of root nubs or roots around the end or does it look dead at the immediate end and the roots are coming out elsewhere. I spent many years killing potential tree grafts this way. Curious if you now add a hormone dip to the alcohol ones, will they turn on with roots, the stems look like they have plenty of vigor in them so you'll get plants out of both. __________________ Zone 7 Celeste, White Marseilles, Beer's Black, Green Greek, White Italy one unknown, Chicago hardy, White Naples, Portuguese Black, Italian Honey.Black Bethleham, Sal's C, Several unknowns. Looking for dark sweet types from Azores and southern Spain (figs, not women), 2014 goal is to acquire Kathleen Black

ascpete

Registered:1336096379
Posts: 1,942

Posted 1362618812	Reply with quote #25

Jack, Thanks for the info. I am exposed to the 10% bleach solution daily (at work), I've been an advocate. The Hydrogen peroxide (50%) sounds good, its readily available and inexpensive. Attached is a picture I just snapped with my phone, it clearly shows roots growing from the bottom of the alcohol treated cuttings. I have been very busy the last 2 weeks and have not been able to plant (cup) the cuttings from this test. They have been at room temperature (60-70 deg F) in ziplock bags since 2/25/13. I don't think adding hormone is necessary with the amount of root growth. If the cuttings were cupped on 2/25/13 and maintained at 75 deg F there would be substantially more root growth. Inline image Attached Images alcohol_treated_closeup_3-6-13.jpg (388.50 KB, 341 views)

JackHNVA

Registered:1352380899
Posts: 519

Posted 1362623260	Reply with quote #26

Great looking roots, I agree, no need to do anything special on these. They should spread out well in the pot with that kind of symmetry on the root mass __________________ Zone 7 Celeste, White Marseilles, Beer's Black, Green Greek, White Italy one unknown, Chicago hardy, White Naples, Portuguese Black, Italian Honey.Black Bethleham, Sal's C, Several unknowns. Looking for dark sweet types from Azores and southern Spain (figs, not women), 2014 goal is to acquire Kathleen Black

JackHNVA

Registered:1352380899
Posts: 519

Posted 1362623322	Reply with quote #27

BTW, what kinds are they? __________________ Zone 7 Celeste, White Marseilles, Beer's Black, Green Greek, White Italy one unknown, Chicago hardy, White Naples, Portuguese Black, Italian Honey.Black Bethleham, Sal's C, Several unknowns. Looking for dark sweet types from Azores and southern Spain (figs, not women), 2014 goal is to acquire Kathleen Black

ascpete

Registered:1336096379
Posts: 1,942

Posted 1362628042	Reply with quote #28

Inline imageI usually place the cuttings in cups as soon as the bottom end is callused and roots start to form. The only reason why I let the rooting continue was for this test (experiment). The Fig is an unknown variety that is being grown in the Bronx. Attached is a post with pictures of the fig and leaves. It is the same variety that I have been using in all the posted Rooting Hormone tests. I have been calling it "TimLight" to differentiate it from all the other unknowns that I had collect last year. It was prolific and produced large tasty figs from mid July into early October. http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/show_single_post?pid=1276400487&postcount=1

DWD2

Registered:1331116011
Posts: 140

Posted 1362632855	Reply with quote #29

Pete, I want to check that I am seeing the picture in your post #24 correctly. It appears that the roots on the hormone treated samples are restricted to the bottom of the cuttings in the area of the hormone treatment. The roots on the non-hormone treated samples appear to be distributed up and down the cutting particularly at the nodes. Am I seeing your photo correctly? If so, any ideas as to why the difference in distribution or why no roots at nodes on the hormone treated cuttings? Thanks! ' 3

noss

Registered:1244523274
Posts: 2,122

Posted 1362635474	Reply with quote #30

That would be so good to be able to get cuttings to root like that. I would be so happy to see something like that. I have a jar of the Clonex to try now and the Root Riot cubes, as well. I have a question--If I have a short cutting, about 5", is that too short to cut in half to put in the Root Riot cubes? Thanks, noss __________________ noss/a.k.a. Vivian Lafayette, LA Zone 9a Wish List: Col de Dame Blanc, Col de Dame Noir, Scott's Yellow, Tony's Brown Italian, any other fig that is good in the rain/humidity and has a real figgy flavor.

ascpete

Registered:1336096379
Posts: 1,942

Posted 1362639523	Reply with quote #31

DWD2, Yes you are seeing correctly, but 2 of the six (hormone treated) cuttings are rooting along the entire length. The explanation is the Rooting Hormone. It has concentrated the cuttings resources at the treated points (increased callus and root formation). Also most green(er) or tip cuttings usually root along their entire length (in my experience). The untreated cuttings start to root at the usual growth points until callus formation, then roots start to form at the callus. This sequence is exactly what I have observed while rooting fig cuttings. I also have always stated that callus formation has been my priority for maintaining a high cutting success rate. Without hormone I usually wait for callus formation before placing in cups and have had a very high success rate. Another observation with the Hormone treated cuttings are that they are slower to push top growth than the Untreated cuttings, in a side by side comparison. Of the 6 cuttings in each group, 5 of the Untreated have 1/4-1/2 in long leaf buds, while 0 (none) of the hormone treated have any bud formation. This observation is the same for the earlier hormone side by side comparison. noss, Good Luck. The two factors that I have found that influence rooting success rate the most are temperature and moisture. The best temperature has been 74-80 deg F and the "growth medium" should be moist or damp, never wet (no visible moisture). By controlling these two factors, I have been able to duplicate these results on all my cuttings (to date). I use the Baggie Method (Sphagnum moss) because I "preroot" to insure initial callus formation, before placing in cups. It is an additional step, but it has produced a very high success rate. I have been able to root 1-node cuttings without rooting hormone, so I don't see why you would have a problem as long as there is a node present. Just make sure you do not use too much or too high a concentration of hormone, it may force the cutting to use up (expend) all its energy producing roots.

Grasa

Registered:1347083219
Posts: 1,819

Posted 1362640284	Reply with quote #32

Pete, those roots are something else. Please update us when leaves grow __________________ Grasa Seattle, WA

JackHNVA

Registered:1352380899
Posts: 519

Posted 1362658566	Reply with quote #33

Pete, thanks, nice looking fig. I bought some scion from a member last year and he called it Italian White (unknown name) but has leaves and large pale fruit with a watermelon color flesh and sweet as you show. __________________ Zone 7 Celeste, White Marseilles, Beer's Black, Green Greek, White Italy one unknown, Chicago hardy, White Naples, Portuguese Black, Italian Honey.Black Bethleham, Sal's C, Several unknowns. Looking for dark sweet types from Azores and southern Spain (figs, not women), 2014 goal is to acquire Kathleen Black

ascpete

Registered:1336096379
Posts: 1,942

Posted 1363364443	Reply with quote #34

Update 3/15/2013 Attached Picture of cupped cuttings. Note five (5) of the alcohol treated (on the right) have already produced leaves as compared to the Hormone treated (on the left). They are in 16 oz cups with 70/30 cutting mix, in a south facing window and in an unheated room (45 - 65 Def F.). Inline image Attached Images hormone_and_alcohol_treated_3-15-13.jpg (330.02 KB, 285 views)

ascpete

Registered:1336096379
Posts: 1,942

Posted 1365430676	Reply with quote #35

Update: 4/8/2013 Attached picture of cuttings. The hormone treated cuttings (on the left) are just starting to produce buds. One of the hormone treated (smallest caliper, terminal cutting) may be dead it has dried up, but roots are still alive. Also attached is a picture of the roots for a comparison. The hormone treated (on the left) has much larger caliper and greater quantity of roots compared to the untreated (on the right). Inline image Attached Images hormone_and_alcohol_treated_4-8-13.jpg (187.18 KB, 554 views) hormone_and_alcohol_treated_roots_4-8-13.jpg (190.87 KB, 37 views)

bullet08

Registered:1284496248
Posts: 6,920

Posted 1365510393	Reply with quote #36

some how i knew figs like alcohol. it's like a=b, b=c, then c has to = a. i like alcohol, figs like alcohol. therefore, i like figs. __________________ Pete Durham, NC Zone 7b "don't talk to me about naval tradition. It's nothing but rum, sodomy and the lash." - sir winston churchill "the problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money." - the baroness thatcher *** all my figs have FMV/FMD, in case you're wondering. * * and... i don't sell things. what little i have will be posted here in winter for first come first serve base to be shared. no, i'm not a socialist...***

ascpete

Registered:1336096379
Posts: 1,942

Posted 1367040168	Reply with quote #37

Conclusion: Alcohol treatment did not seem to harm the cuttings in any way, but also did not increase root formation compared to untreated cuttings (in other experiment). <EDIT> Do not wash with Alcohol!!! It seems to kill bacteria including the beneficial, but not all fungal spores. Hormone treatment (undiluted) increased root formation, but delayed leaf growth. As of today only the largest of the 5 surviving cuttings has formed any leaves (three), the other 4 cuttings have formed buds only. The sixth and smallest cutting (a terminal cutting) grew a large root mass and then dried up. Lessons learned: *1. Wash (as desired) and treat with a more dilute mix of Dip n Grow.* *2. Decrease the size and quantity of scores to one 1/4 inch long for small, two 1/4 inch long for medium and 3 or more 1/4 inch long score points for 3/4 inch and larger caliper cuttings.* *3. Hydrate or soak the cuttings before starting the rooting process.* *4. Place cuttings in sealed airtight container and open every 2-3 days only.* *5. Once cuttings are cupped grow at a constant 70 deg F or higher for at least 1 month (fastest growth).* Lessons learned applied in real life... Started a batch of cuttings 2-1/2 weeks ago. a. Brushed cuttings with 50% alcohol (with small paintbrush), cut off bottom of cutting, scored then treated with 20x dilution of Dip n Grow Hormone on the bottom end and on the scores only.(Note I no longer recommend washing with alcohol, It seems to kill all the beneficial bacteria but not all mold spores) b. Placed all the cutting (40) in a 30 gallon clear plastic recycling bag with very damp long fiber sphagnum moss (to soak the cuttings for hydration). c. After 1 week, removed cuttings and squeezed out all the excess moisture from the sphagnum moss, put moss and cuttings back in bag then into plastic basin with the tops oriented together at a higher elevation than the bottom ends (they were too long for the plastic bin). This is the result. The cuttings have developed large symmetrical roots. These roots are strong and were easily separated from adjacent roots without damage, but the roots that were formed higher up on the cuttings were easily damaged. All the cuttings have formed buds and half are forming leaves. The pictured individual cutting is actually standing upright with the roots supporting the weight of the cutting. Note this procedure can be done with or without rooting hormone, the rooting hormone decreases the rooting time by 2-3 weeks. Attached Images fig_roots_at_3_weeks_alcohol_wash_and_20x_dilution_DipnGrow.jpg (248.45 KB, 716 views) fig_roots_at_3_weeks_alcohol_wash_and_20x_dilution_DipnGrow1.jpg (260.44 KB, 74 views) fig_roots_at_3_weeks_alcohol_wash_and_20x_dilution_DipnGrow4.jpg (216.78 KB, 1012 views) fig_roots_at_3_weeks_alcohol_wash_and_20x_dilution_DipnGrow2.jpg (172.06 KB, 340 views)

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