In anticipation of the arrival of the UC Davis cuttings in a few days (hopefully), I would like to take a poll as to the most successful rooting method that you have personally tried and stuck with.  Explanatory comments welcome.

1. Baggie-newspaper or paper towel method

2. Baggie-spaghnum moss method

3. Jon's New Style Baggie method

4. Other

Thanks for voting.

Frank

Hey Frank,

I am piecewise functional. Thus I vote

2, if VSS
4, otherwise

where
VSS = very special scionwood, i.e., rare or difficult to acquire or really damn good, and
4 = Stick the VSS-not in a 1-gallon pot and let Mother nature do what she does best.

And what does it all mean? I use 2 most of the time!

I vote for #2- Sphagnum moss. I used The New Zealand stuff. Expensive but blows away the Common stuff. Light and airy, giving good air circulation. I have gotten roots as quickly as 2 to 3 weeks.

The following opinions are strictly my own.  Others may have experienced different results. 

I never use #1 anymore.  To me #2 is superior to #1 in every way.  First, there is less margin for error in terms of how much moisture is in the paper towel.  Second, rolling and unrolling seems like risky business and liable to break roots.  Third, mold seems to be more prevalent with PT.  Only possible counterpoint is expense of sphagnum, but I think it's pretty cheap for the benefits it adds.

I would also add a category, #4, being, just stick it in a 1 gallon pot and cover the whole thing with a plastic bag.  So far this has been the most successful for me.  The only problem with this method is that you can't see what's going on.  But there is less root disturbance and much more chance for plant to get established before re pot is required.

For me #2 and #3 are approximately equally successful.  There are pluses and minuses, though.  #3 has the advantage of requiring very little attention or intervention for quite a long time after starting the cutting.  But you see a bit less of what is going on with the parts of the cuttings covered by soil. 

With #2 you should inspect the cuttings at least once a week, maybe twice, and then you still have to put them in a cup when they start to root, so it's a little more work.  But the advantage is you can see exactly what's going on.  So, if a cutting is developing roots and/or shoots in an unusual or suboptimal fashion, you see this and can take appropriate action.  For example, if a cutting is shooting and rooting on multiple nodes, you can plant it horizontally.  Or, if a breba starts to develop it's easy to pluck it off.  Main drawback is sometimes you might break some of the new tender roots when you put rooted ones into cups.  I try to minimize this by checking every 2 days when I can and putting them into cups when the roots are short and less fragile.

I'll be interested to hear the opinions of others here.

for me it was a first experience.

Good thread. No.2 Method is my preference.

Only need to check them between 7 to 10 days. Provides the best methodology in balancing the right moisture levels. Too much, I can easily wring out the moisture. Too dry, I can add & feel the ideal moisture desired.

#2-smoss, being very careful when planting with moistened mix, lightly watered on the cutting to dribble down to the tender roots.

I am using the new baggy method as well because it is more convenient and if they do not strike in 6 weeks or look dry they can go in the smoss box.

#2 - to get roots started, then #3

C.J.

#2 mainly
and some #4, other ... into pot of soil mix

Grant
z5b

Jenia, funny, I start with #1 then switch to # 2 (but in a container, not a baggie).  NY, thats why I switch to the moss.  Best moss I have used to date.

I use the u-line bags from #3 but put long fiber sphagnum moss around the bottom 1/3 to 1/2 and light potting soil with lots of perlite in to almost the top, then more spagnum at the top so when the bag gets dropped nothing falls out.   I've tried those u-line bags with moss, potting soil or perlite and they all seem to work.  Moss seems to cause less disruption at repotting time.  With the perlite I cut open the bag and rolled it gently into water to let the perlite fall off without pulling on the roots.  With the other 2 it wasn't necessary.  So far with all of the cuttings that weren't moldy all out of 30 have rooted.  I have about 50 more I just started.

Edit 5/17/12 - What I described above worked great for very fresh cuttings.  When cuttings were older the bottom plug of peat moss tended to hold too much water.  From now on I'll leave it out unless I know the cuttings are very fresh and eager to root.

Looks like #2 is the most popular.

I agree, although I haven't really given #3 much of an evaluation.

@rcantor: I like your idea of combining #2 and #3. That would make it #5, if my math is correct.

Just wondering if you place the cutting  at the bottom of the bag surrounded by the sphagnum moss or if it sits on top of the moss.

Frank

Nice one, Jimmie.

I pondered "piecewise functional" all day without the slightest clue as to its meaning, subliminal or otherwise.

Then I remembered google=friend and JD=engineer.....

"In mathematics, a piecewise-defined function (also called a piecewise function) is a function whose definition changes depending on the value of the independent variable."

When you have time, please explain fractals to me.

Frank

I'm just getting into fig cuttings.  I had to prune my (lsu gold) tree so I have three cuttings from it using #2 method.  I just bought some regular spagmum moss from nursery that is used for "pot topping" house plants.  Should I look into this New Zealand stuff??  The moisture seems to be pretty consistent and everything.  I also have a cutting from my late grandfather's "little red fig" tree that dates back to the 40's or 50's.  Hopefully I will start seeing roots in a couple of weeks...

The big difference from my perspective is the quality.

Thanks Dominick, if it's the best, I'm going to look into ordering some spagmum from New Zealand I suppose..

Amazon and eBay are good sources. Little expensive but I think well worth it.

The length and color are good indicators of quality. You want it long and very pale. Orchid houses use the good stuff, they might give you a good deal too because they buy in bulk. There are not that many orchid growers around though.

I have actually been doing a little of #5 this year also, but with only a few pieces of smoss under the cutting to keep the ends from rotting. The fast rooters trasplanted fine and the slow rooters are still looking healthy.

Thanks for the link dominick

I also use #3 with Jason's idea of potting mix and perlite.

@Bob, I think that's a great idea with the spag. moss on the bottom for the roots and some on the top to stop any spilling.

luke

My best success rate has been a modified stick in the ground method.  I have a large plastic tub with a lid on it to maintain moisture/humidity.  I poked a bunch of drain holes in the bottom and sides to keep it from getting overly soggy.  The tub sits outside a south facing garage wall in the elements.   I plant my cuttings in a course sand mix and have maybe an 80% success rate.  

I started my current batch  January 1.  Two weeks ago I transplanted two into pots.  The lid comes off for a few hours each day with shade cloth draped over the bin.

I have tried other methods but don't get as good a success rate.  And, using this method I don't have to hunt down and purchase special planting media.  The bedding sand I use costs about 9 bucks a ton.

It's  crude...but for me it works.  

I guess I am the odd one here, but I seem to have pretty good luck with method #1. I have tried #2 this year for the first time and it has been mixed results. Some rooted great and fast while some cuttings lingered forever in the S. moss then barely put out a root.

#4! Plastic shoe box with 70/30 Pro-mix/ perlite.

Great for several cuttings of same variety like UCD cutting.

Both  :)

I put a plug of spagnum or green basket moss at the bottom as a filter to keep particles from running out and to give the roots room to grow before they have to exit the holes.  I stand the cutting on that 1-2" plug and stuff more moss so the cutting stands straight, covering at least 2".  Then I put a mix of light soilless mix mixed with perlite and soil moist granules. They keep the humidity constant without letting it be waterlogged.    Then around the top goes more moss.  I always leave 1/4" sticking out.  I use the 10" bags and roll down the tops so I can reach the bottom and stuff the moss.   As I add more moss I unroll the bag.  When it's time to add the potting mix I unroll the bag up to the top of the cutting.

Dave, how do you get the rooted cuttings out of the sand?  How do you know when they're ready to come out?