All,

Yesterday was 70 days since first figlets appeared on my unknown (first year of figs on this tree). Since the NJ weather has been cooler than normal, do I have a chance for these to ripen? I expect only another few weeks before it gets too cold. We have had some nights into the 40's already.

Steve,70 days is for an adult tree,in "Fig growing regions".Young trees take much longer depending how strong the plant is.Fig outside growing regions as in new Jersey,takes a little longer.
I have people on this Forum telling me that it taks 7 years for a fig to be considered adult.
I noticed that in the forth year,if not killed to the ground the fig,is adjusted and ripe fruits at the right time.
I think you will have some ripe fruits but not all of them,due to very cool September,we had.

Thanks again Herman. That's encouraging. I gues I just have to wait it out ... I'm usually not a very patient person, so waiting is hard to do. I guess another hobby with quicker return would have been smarter on my part.

So based on your input, I should see figs forming earlier next year and I should expect the tree to start adjusting to its climate? Thanks.

Yes if you manage to keep the fig alive trough the winter with all the branches Intact.
If the tree dies to ground,then is like being very young again,it grow first,and later put out fruits,wich make it be late to ripe again.
This is all about a fig grown inground in our climate.
If in container,you also are responsabil for making it trough winter,but then in Spring,you have to feed your tree right if you want fruits because the fig is imprisoned in container and depend on you to be fed and water when needed.

Herman - Yup regarding the protection over the winter. I have some in pots ready to come in to an unheated but attached to the house shed. The ones in the ground, I winterized with wire cage, leaves and plastic. Came through without any damage. Problem is this year the tree is 7ft tall and 6ft wide and will be a little more difficult. But thanks for clarifying on the die-back.

Herman
If the maturity is around 4 years (to 7 years in other cases as mentioned), and you mentioned that freezing to the ground sets the clock back for ripening schedule. How about root pruning of potted plants. Will it set the maturity clock back by some time?

Yes in that year when you prune,that is why you shoud prune roots judiciouselly,and only what is absolutelly necesary,like encircling roots.
No radical root pruning should be done and expect fruit the same year at the same time.
Best R

Great question Ottowan and Herman great tip. I'll keep that in mind so I do not root prune unless necessary. I remember someone's post saying that the lower parts of a tree are "older" than the "tips" (somewhat obvious when you hear it). I also remember someone saying that better figs grow on older wood. So it is easy to understand that new growth from the ground after dieback would give "younger" tree results.

Steve
Actually, according to the expert(s) in this forum, it is the other way around i.e. the top new growth is older in botanical terms (called ontogenetically) than the older wood at the bottom because the age equivalent in this case is counted in terms of the number of cell divisions, and the cells reaching the top of the plant through cell divisions have gone through more cell divisions than the bottom. I hope I am interpreting tapla's explanation correctly and if not I hope someone will correct it.

Ottawan,

The post you are referring to is:

http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/fig/msg070007054857.html

I read this over and I am not clear about it except on the point that the re-growth after die back gives "younger" tree results. The rest I get a little confused. I will ask Al to clarify if he would.

OK, got some clarification regarding the "age" of the various parts of the tree. I think I did have it backwards. There are more factors that complicate the story but this illustration helped sort out the first point.

bradkairdolf's post on GWFF ...
Let's say we have a tree that we've grown from seed. It starts with bud/node #1. As the tree grows, we get new nodes (we'll label them sequentially... 2, 3, 4, etc). If there is a branch point at node #25, each branch would start with a node "age" of #26 and continue from there. My understanding is that the ontogenetic age is determined by the node. So, if you take a cutting from the base, it will have a lower node number and thus be ontogenetically younger than a cutting from the top of the plant, which will have a higher node number (although I suppose if you had a short and very wide tree, a cutting from the tip of a branch at the top could have a lower node number than a cutting from the tip of a long branch at the base)