A wonderful tutorial filled with information.  How can anyone go wrong if they follow this thread. 

Personally, I think air-layering is far better than starting cuttings.  It's just as easy, and if you start the air-layers on the larger branches, you can have many fruiting-size trees in just one season, and with better root systems.

Nice work Costas.

Frank

Couldn't agree with you more Frank. I've always favored layers over cuttings for precisely those reasons. The only other method I would consider is grafting, which I might well try this season. 

In this particular case (assuming it doesn't fall over), you get a mature tree from the off - magic. And most likely ripe fruit in the first season to boot. What more could you ask?

Thx for the kind words. The cheque's in the post.

OK guys (and gals), I now have pics of PHASE II. I did the 3 subsidiary layers last Wed/Thurs. If there's any interest, I'll post later today or early tomorrow with suitable (brief) notes. It's basically the same method, only of course on a smaller scale.

If the main layer fails, at least I'm in with a very good chance of getting 3 small layers out of this little/big project. I regard it as my insurance policy. I'll also have some spare sphagnum moss that can be used on other layers!

This may not be in the right place, but around how big should a fig tree be before attempting to airlayer it?

It's nice to see the process through the progress to the end Costas... load them up bro.

This is a very interesting idea.  I would have never thought to air layer something so big.
Did you leave enough room below the air layer so you have room to work and can safely cut it off and leave a stub to heal so not to damage the mother plant?

Fun to read and also nice pictures to boot.
Thanks for showing us what you did.

@ Patrick - Thanks for your question. I have a 1 yr old Greek Black grown from a cutting that has, in effect, 'bifurcated' from the main stem at a very low level. I'll post a pic later so you can see what I mean.

Anyway, the result is an unsightly-looking plant. The usual solution to this would be to simply remove the smaller of the 2 shoots, and either use it for cuttings, or simply discard. But why not air-layer it instead? So ok, this is not my usual or preferred size for a layer, but since I've already got a home for this one (actually, a forum member), there's no reason I know of why this cannot be done on 'rogue' shoots on even small trees. But if you want to know when I usually do my main 'giant' layers, see my #44 post above.

So that now leaves me with a potted tree that has a single shoot growing at roughly 45 degrees - still unsightly. How am I gonna solve that 'problem'? Well, I could layer that as well, then re-pot straight, but why not simply put it in the ground with the root ball at an angle so that the shoot itself points straight up towards the sky instead of sideways? Problem solved.

@ Aaron - Thanks for your continued interest 'bro'. Watch this space.

Costas types -So that now leaves me with a potted tree that has a single shoot growing at roughly 45 degrees - still unsightly. How am I gonna solve that 'problem'? Well, I could layer that as well, then re-pot straight, but why not simply put it in the ground with the root ball at an angle so that the shoot itself points straight up towards the sky instead of sideways? Problem solved.

Yup .  ; )

@ Joe: Yes indeed - that's one of the principle functions of the donut - to raise the container a good 4-5" above the point where it meets the trunk, and prevent it from sliding down to the trunk. That's why it needs to be pretty secure, and why I use string or wire ties to stop it unravelling.

It also serves to restrict the size of the hole made in the container, which by definition is gonna be bigger than the diameter of the branch. You could end up losing some of your growing medium if you didn't plug the hole.

Sorry Martin, I do occasionally state the blindingly obvious. But don't forget, what's obvious to one person may not be so to another.

Ok, here goes. These are the containers I've selected as being of suitable size for these layers. They are actually 3ltr olive barrels. Yep, we bulk-buy our olives too. As you can probably tell by now, we also like to do things on a grand scale over here across the pond.

But, as previously mentioned, the problem with these opaque containers is that it does make root inspection a bit trickier. Oh well, you can't have everything.

 

The containers in context to give you an idea of scale:

 

Costas with those containers you can cut out in middle a section and tape with clear packing tape for your window.
I did this with a 1 or 2 gallon container several years back and can see roots then.

A close-up of the doughnuts. Also illustrates the point discussed earlier (raised by Joe I believe) about their function - ie ensuring enough distance from the main stem to allow enough 'elbow room' for severing, etc.

 

Hmm, that sounds like a neat idea Martin. Yeah, could well work. Might try it next time - thanks.

So, one of the barrels filled with the moss, and secured with some wire tie.

 

The 3 finished subsidiary layers suitably covered.

 

In context.

 

Costas,  I am amazed you can do this.
You get a fully grown tree probably producing figs in 1st year?
Do you trim the new tree down or leave it the size in the photos?

And an overview from a little further away. BTW, the main layer has a gross height of 8.5' (ie including the container), and the trunk an average dia. of 1.9". When sunk into the ground, it will stand around 7' tall.

 

Hello again Joe. Why so amazed? There's nothing special about what I do - anybody on this forum can do it, given the right equipment.

But yes, I would expect to have ripe fruit off this tree in it's first year. Indeed, fruit ripens on it whilst still attached to the parent tree, so I assume you count the 1st year as the 1st growing season after being detached from the parent tree. I'd be very surprised if it failed to deliver in its 1st year.

As for cutting back, well yes, I guess you could do that, but I prefer to leave well alone for a year or 2 at least. Humanly speaking, it's already been thru one trauma, so I'd rather save the additional 'surgery' for a later date. I know about the increased risk of failure if there's too much on top of the root ball, but I'll take my chances & trust my judgement on that one.

OT, but this one's for Rafed:

 

And here's another one:

 

And yet another: