I was trying to describe to Harvey how I did the airlayers but I am not the wordsmith JTP, FMD or JD are.  Not saying my way is any better than anyone's,  it is just the way I do it.   The way Frank (FMD) does it is very clever and very very fast, not sure if he has posted it.  But for doing a lot of airlayers and not having to buy much of anything I like my way.  

T-storms just popped up and got chased in so figured I would post this now.  Lets see if I can get it posted before the power goes out:)  That 78 degrees in the middle of the screen is actually my weather station on Wunderground.  

 

You can use any size drill bit you want I like the 7/16

 

You then cut a slit in the cap just to the middle.  You can use scissors for this.

   

Cut the bottom off the bottle.  After this you can cut the bottle any height you want as sometimes you need a short container.  Can use scissors for this also.



You then cut a slit in the bottle, again only half way through, top to bottom.  Yes I took a picture with the blade running probably not a smart choice.  This is the tough one as the lip and neck of the bottle you cant use scissors to cut.  They are butter to the bandsaw but I am sure you could do it another way, just be safe. 



   



The bottle now looks like this.  The reason I use water bottles, specifically eco friendly thinner bottles is because if you use say a 16 oz coke bottle spreading it apart to get it around the branch or stem is much more difficult.







Some use clothes pins to anchor the bottom of the air layer but I prefer velcro.  You can see the cap has been slipped over the stem.  I used a potted fig a Pan E Vino dark sucker for the demonstration as it was just easier and it had a long stem that needed done anyway.  It was easier to see without all the leaves in the bushes getting in the way.


   

Next the bottle is slipped over. 

 

And the cap screws back on.  It holds very well.  Larger caps to say a coke bottle dont hold as well once a slit is cut in them...not sure why.


 

I use to use electrical tape around the bottle but my good friend Hershell gave me a roll of aluminum tape..it works so much better and even grabs a wet bottle.  I fold the tape over the top rim 1/2" or so.  and the rest seals the slit.

 

Fill with soil

 

and foil and you are done.

 



Some use bottles split in half completely but I find they are slow to apply and feels like you need 3 hands.  Only slitting one side of the bottle keeps it together and the halves lined up.


I timed how long it takes to turn the bottle in to the al container..18 seconds not rushing so it is quick.  I can put the air layer on the bush in 2-3 minutes I suppose, never timed it.

The top of the al is left open and mother nature generally keeps them watered.  Because we have high humidity here in Florida every day and a heavy dew each morning I find I only have to water them if we get no rain in 4 or 5 days.  The morning dew actually supplies a lot of the water as it rolls down the leaves and stems right in to the cup.  In a less humid climate I would seal the top or do this.....which is just two bottles reversed.

 


Hope someone finds it useful. 

Nice job, and inexpensive, should be very light, I'll give it a try. Thanks.

Thanks very much. That aluminum tape is a great idea.

Do you girdle the branch, cut notches, abrade it, or ?

If you don't have the right power tools, you can cut right through the threaded tops of thin bottles with pruning sheers, then use scissors for the thinner parts. Same with the caps - even forming the hole in the top without a drill, though it's not as neat, nor attractive.

Thanks for posting this - very useful.  Where do you get the velcro strips?  A fabric store?

Gina,

Thank you for the reminder.....I forgot to mention....I make sure to cover two nodes.  I do not wound, scrape, girdle or use hormones on the figs.  For other plants the wounding helps.  The key I think is to just make sure it stays moist, not soggy but moist.  With this way I just use my normal mix and the excess water drains out so it stays moist but not saturated.  The other thing I should have mentioned is I think it is crucial the air layer is immobilized.   New roots and a airlayer shifting in the wind is bad because it will snap the roots off and because that wiggle will create a airspace between the stem and the mix, neither will help.  I use twine and bamboo stakes..mostly because I have a lot of bamboo:)

It is just a normal 5-1-1-1 mix in the bottle.  

Great ideas, Wills.  I'll have to try this on my next air layer.

I got a roll of Velcro for the garden from Amazon. It's pale green in color.  Thinner than the regular stuff and not as sturdy. it might hold up better to the sun however. Not sure how costs compare.


Here ya go. There are several different lengths, and the price seems to vary a lot.

http://www.amazon.com/Velcro-Plant-2-Inches-Green-90648/dp/B005755YSQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408119511&sr=8-1&keywords=velcro+garden

$10.29, 75 ft X 1/2 inch.

This is very similar to what I do except I use the bottom.  I cut the top of the water bottle off just before it starts to narrow and I use the bottom 2/3rds or so.  I cut down one side of the cylinder to the bottom then I continue that cut to the center of the bottom.  Then I cut a small hole in the bottom at the center for the branch to fit through.  I spread it and let it close around the branch just like you.  I then use clear packing tape (because I have it and it's cheap  :- ) around the branch and spiral up on to the bottle to hold it closed and in place on the branch.  I fill with promix HP BX (+/- mycorrizae - because it's what I have) and leave the top open as you do.  I use maple sticks to keep my airlayer and branch still because I'm high class (or a sap?).  And also because my neighbor has a huge maple tree and so I have dozens of saplings I let grow until I need the wood or don't need the shade to harden off any more cuttings   :)   I make all my cuts with a scissor or a razor blade.  Sometimes I use a dremel for holes - the bottom center hole or side holes if it's rainy season.

 


And I save the top for use as a humidity dome if ever needed.

 


Or, if I run out of water bottles I use a cup.

 

Pretty similar.   I tried the cups but just like the bottles better because they are taller and thinner, covers more nodes.  Your way definitely solves the tough lip and neck cutting though if you don't have tools.  I am going to try Ginas suggestion to cut the lip and neck plastic, she may have better sharper garden clippers than I do though.  

Thanks, Wills.  My question in your "fig abuse" thread was mostly centered around if you has girdled the branch being airlayered but you've already answered that above for Gina.  I hadn't tried it without doing so but will give it a try.

Much of my new growth this year is still quite green, especially for some varieties.  In other words, it's not lignified yet (Neil is a smart guy and regularly uses this big word, LOL).  Have you airlayered green (non-lignified) branches with success using this method?

I did quite a few airlayers earlier this year and just used sphagnum long-fiber moss and held it in place with aluminum foil and masking tape.  I did girdle the branch, scrapped of the cambium layer, and used IBA rooting hormone.  The aluminum foil rips easily, though, and is somewhat difficult to apply evenly spaced around the branch.  I suggest trying masking tape to see how it works for you in place of velcro.  I've used it for bark grafting chestnuts and works very well, lasting a few months before breaking down.  And it's very cheap.  (Note: for my chestnut bark grafts most of the tape gets covered with latex grafting sealer as well.)

Are you able to pull back that aluminum tape to check progress of root formation?

Thanks again!

Her leg too?  I thought the hip was bad enough.  He says it comes with the territory of bike riding but that seems pretty heartless so I suspect it came about when she demanded a new kitchen instead of a big greenhouse. :)

There are a couple of points that Wills touched on that bear emphasis.

1. Wounding is optional, but try to cover multiple nodes with the layer. If you are doing a layer late in the season in an area where it might get caught by frost, do not wound the limb.
2. Immobilize the layer. If the layer twists after roots form, you will be starting over (almost).
3. Moisture control is crucial. If you live in an area with low humidity, wrap in plastic and seal the ends. This also helps immobilize the layer.

Harvey,

Ok.....here is the picture.  Once the cup is pretty full the roots are visible without moving the foil.  Perhaps this is also a high humidity thing and with lower humidity they would stay deeper? No idea.  Sometimes you see the roots poking straight up...but it is raining and wasn't going to search for one of those:)   This is on a Niagara Black.  You can see the roots on the surface in 3 or 4 different spots.  I would not even take the foil off, just cut it as I know the pot is full of roots or they would not be forced to the surface.  

 

The only thing you do that I don't is cover the plastic bottle.  I listen carefully to my plants and it makes them very unhappy when you put on the outer layer.  They always say, "curses, foiled again."

Wills, nice tutorial. I agree that anchoring the AL is very important, especially in my neck of the woods, where the angry birds live.

Here's my version of the two minute air-layering technique when doing multiple branches that I posted a while back.

http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/the-2-minute-air-layer-pictorial-5996173?highlight=5+minute+air+layer&pid=1275427676#post1275427676

Frank,

Hmm that was not the al technique of yours I meant, I was talking the store bought screw on lid one.  

 Gives me ideas for improvements on what I do. I do cut the neck off with a blade and did slice myself on the 1st airlayer of the year. within couple days I bought some rooter pots but still use some bottles. One note on the foil which I always use be careful on recycling it. We had some I think was from baked sweet potatoes I recycled being the green and cheap guy I am, well apparently  the neighbors dog has a sweet potato tooth.

Excellent tutorials. To all those who have contributed to this thread, thank you for taking the time to make these tutorials and share them.

Wills, this put me in the mood to start your Vasilika Sika airlayer tomorrow.  I even scored an empty bottle at work this afternoon - we typically don't buy drinks in them for use at home.  Anyway, have you ever compared side by side on the same tree an air layer where the cambium layer was wounded or girdled vs. one where the cambium was untouched?  I don't doubt that not wounding works but I wonder if wounding/girdling speeds up the process or enhances root development.