Hi Steve-

Just saw your new posting.  I hope these suggestions will help you.

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Tree should be healthy, growing, and should be in full leaf... 

First, when using these propagator "balls", I twist-tie the upper and lower holes on one side, so that the ball opens like a clam shell, or book.  Then I fill both halves of the ball with moistened potting mix.  If the mix is too heavy lighten it with some Pearl-Lite.  If you lightly press the dampened mix into both halves it will stay in position as you clamp the prop. balls around the stem that you want to air layer.  You can also use these compressed discs of peat moss that are sold in garden centers, and place a few inside the prop ball.  When the disc are moistened, they will expand.  Either, or......it's your choice.

By sure to securely wire/tie the prepared, prop. balls to the stem so that the ball cannot spin around the stem, or slide up or down from the original position, or it can strip the newly forming roots off the stem.  I then twist tie a plastic bag around the whole set up.  You can also wrap the prop. balls in aluminum foil.  The dampened mix inside the propagator ball can be re-moistened by directing the stream from a spay bottle into the top opening.  No need to waterlog the growing mix....just keep it slightly damp.  The plastic bag/foil around the whole set up helps prevent rain water from waterlogging the prop. balls.  Make sure extra water can drain out from the foil/plastic bags, or your air-layers can get swamped.

Keeping the weather and temperatures in mind, I usually leave the prop balls on the stems for about 6-8 weeks or longer.  There really is no good way of checking for root development, unfortunately.  However after 6-8 weeks, I'm sure that the air-layers will be ready to be cut off the original tree.  (It's too bad the prop balls were not made with a clear area so that root development could be viewed, and checked.  At least soda bottles will allow viewing root development....but the prop. balls are more convenient to use).

When potting up your new air layers, be careful of the tender roots.  The prop ball should slip off the compacted root-ball.  Now you could just plug the whole root ball and new tree into a 3-5 gallon container of mix, and you're on your way.  By using a larger capacity container, you will not have to disturb the roots on your new tree for a few years.  Take precautions, and protect the young trees from freezing weather for the first 3-4 years after severance from parent tree.

Good luck with your air-layering endeavors.  Maybe some others will add suggestions.


Frank

Thanks Frank - lots of good information there.

Hey Steve, as another option I used my first one on these a couple weeks back. I split two Root Riot Cubes and placed them inside the
propagator gadget. As Frank stated you can not see the roots form as you can with the Rooter Pots which I believe I will like better in the long run.
As for securing the two halves, I used the old trusty Duct Tape which works fine also.

Steve-

Ditto what Mike said....

Root Riot Cubes, Rock Wool, Coconut Husk Chunks, but NOT coir... long-strand sphagnum moss, etc  Keep the medium damp, but not wet.  You'll get roots.

Good luck,

Frank

Frank,
I made several air layer pots based on the "hinged" clamshell design using recycled plastic bottles, http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=7048562 . The installation is similar to the Air Propagator, http://airpropagator.com/results.php , the bottles are mostly clear and the hinge is built in. I've been using a peat based mix and packing the halves with damp mix per your directions. Like the Air propagator, installation would be simpler with nylon wire ties, but I've been using recycled available materials.
.

BTW, the Air Propagators have been redesigned with a clear half shell to view root development http://airpropagator.com/buy_online.php .

Hi Pete-

Thanks for the added information.  Your split bottles are very similar in concept...and basically work the same way. 

I've used the original "A-P" with great success and when tied with two nylon adjustable ties along one side, the "A-P" can open just like a clam shell, or, book.  Very convenient when both halves are filled with damp medium, as you noted.  All you need to do is close them around a good stem/branch.

The "A-P" and your hinged bottles are both good, convenient, systems to use when you have to slap on some quick air-layers.  Also, it's good to keep a "kit" in the car trunk, just  in case.

The modified "A-P" should be even better when checking rooting progress.


Frank

I offers 12 pair last year. They work great. I got the med size ones and just use miracle grow potting mix as the medium.

do you think it is too late to start an airlayer here in zone 7b? I've been reading the long range weather forecasts, and they are calling on another year like the last here. So I am going to cover my figs with upside down rain barrels. But my Italian Black is too tall, so I am thinking I might airlayer the top 2 ft and keep the result in the shed. But is it too late?

Our Avg. first frost is Nov 10, but if it is like last year it will be around Oct 25

GeneDaniels,
It usually takes 6 - 8 weeks with temps above 70*F to get a solid root mass, but you could still get a well rooted "2 foot cuttings" and roots will continue to grow at temperatures as low as 50*F.
I would give it a try.