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Encanto Farms Nursery > Topics > Am I overwatering? Help!
 
 


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ross

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Posted Reply with quote  #1 
Hello, I'm a relatively new fig grower-- I've been lurking on here for a while trying to find solutions myself, but after a couple months of the same issue I think it's time I ask for some help.

The problem:

My figs this spring/summer were doing amazing for months-- they were spitting out new leaves and getting bigger at a pretty incredible rate, and then new growth completely stopped for weeks or months at a time. This happens on and off only on my larger trees (2-4 ft tall, most are under a year old with no figs) and it's now been about a month since one of my trees has put out any new growth on the lateral buds, terminal buds or on the buds from suckers. New growth seemingly stops after rainfall or watering. It could be something else, but my intuition is telling me that I'm overwatering. Please help.

Some details:

-I'm growing all my figs in containers. The larger & older trees have pretty well developed root systems and fit well in 20 gallon smart pots.
-None are root bound. I'm pretty religious about moving them up to bigger pot sizes to maximize growth & scoring roots when needed.
-I use Dr. Earth's Pot of Gold all purpose potting soil with nothing added. It's very heavy and full of organics.
-The tops of my soil are covered in wood chips to prevent the tops from drying out.
-I'm in the Philadelphia area (6b/7a). Typical day summer day: around 90 degrees with a good amount of humidity.
-They get 7-8 hours of direct sunlight.
-Only one of my larger trees is infected with FMV.
-I sparingly fertilize with Osmocote 14-14-14, and sparingly re-fertilize when I re-pot.
-I have dolomite lime that I've rarely used. Most trees have healthy green or dark green leaves.
-I've been watering from the top, and very recently started to water from the bottom only. Almost every other day for younger trees, and what seems like never in the past 2 months for my older trees. It's been raining a lot here, and I've been pretty good about covering my pots or moving them out of the rain to prevent any excess watering.
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DesertDance

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Posted Reply with quote  #2 
It's hard to over-water if your soil is well drained.  You may need to amend it with crushed granite, turface, perlite or cactus mix.  You described your soil as "heavy."  That doesn't sound well-drained to me. 

Suzi
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ross

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Posted Reply with quote  #3 
It's definitely not well drained-- What would be the easiest way to add perlite into an already existing container? I don't want to have to move my trees up to a bigger size pot.
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FiggyFrank

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Posted Reply with quote  #4 
Ross,
I'm having similar issues with a few of my potted trees too.  No idea why, especially since the others are doing fine.
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DesertDance

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Posted Reply with quote  #5 
I've never had to do that, but I imagine it would be the same as transplanting into a bigger pot, but just the same pot.  I'd dump it all into a wheelbarrow, mix in the perlite and or turface, crushed granite so you have areas where air can get to the roots.  I'd  then wash all the dirt off the roots and put the plant with the new dirt back into the container.

There is a dude on garden web that is the expert on well drained soils.  Here is his recipe:

Al's Gritty Mix

For long term (especially woody) plantings and houseplants, I use a superb soil that is extremely durable and structurally sound. The basic mix is equal parts of pine bark, Turface, and crushed granite.


1 part uncomposted screened pine or fir bark (1/8-1/4")
1 part screened Turface or Diatonacious Earth
1 part crushed Gran-I-Grit (grower size) or #2 cherrystone
1 Tbsp gypsum per gallon of soil
CRF (if desired)
Source of micro-nutrients or use a fertilizer that contains all essentials I use 1/8 -1/4 tsp Epsom salts per gallon of fertilizer solution when I fertilize (check your fertilizer - if it is soluble, it is probable it does not contain Ca or Mg.

I don't use his recipe exactly, but I'm sure you need more than just perlite to get your soil draining. 
Suzi
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jdsfrance

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Posted Reply with quote  #6 
Hi ross,
welcome to the forum.
Do you have plates under your pots ? Do you have standing water in the plates ? No plates?
A fig tree not growing in the season is normally a lack of nutrients and/or water.
I would check if the dirt is dry in the pots. If so, you need to water more.
I would check the dirt at the top of the pot and at the bottom. Could be a wicking problem and all water staying at the bottom of the pot.
I would add some generic 10/10/10 fertilizer, a closed hand full of blue balls, and water to help dilute the fertilizer.
Could be a lack of heat. How is the weather at your location lately ?
But, fig trees grow in flushes - so might just be normal.
Here in general they make 5 to 7 leaves and then start pushing figs. If the weather allows, the tree will then grow again while the figs are in the stagnant stage.
As long as the tree looks happy, I wouldn't worry too much. If you want growth, give more fertilizer - don't give too much fertilizer at a time , or you'll burn the tree.
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james

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Posted Reply with quote  #7 
Another avenue to explore is container temperature. If it starts to get warmer than 85F o easily reached if the pot gets direct sunlight] the roots lose efficiency and the tree struggles to get moisture and nutrients. When I was still in Houston, my potted trees would go through a quasi-dormant period every summer.
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ross

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Posted Reply with quote  #8 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertDance
I don't use his recipe exactly, but I'm sure you need more than just perlite to get your soil draining.  

Suzi



I've amended my soils to be very well draining. Thanks for the link, Suzi. I also added lime/fertilizer to each batch of new soil. I have to say it's been a success and overwatering will no longer be a problem in my eyes.

I've also done something very similar to this at the bottom of my pots to reduce the amount of sitting wet soil at the bottom. http://figs4fun.com/fpix/FP866-15%20800.jpg
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ross

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Posted Reply with quote  #9 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsfrance
But, fig trees grow in flushes - so might just be normal.
Here in general they make 5 to 7 leaves and then start pushing figs. If the weather allows, the tree will then grow again while the figs are in the stagnant stage.


I guess this depends on where you live? Others have told me the opposite-- that their trees continue to produce leaves throughout the whole season even while figs are ripening.
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ross

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Posted Reply with quote  #10 
Quote:
Originally Posted by james
Another avenue to explore is container temperature. If it starts to get warmer than 85F o easily reached if the pot gets direct sunlight] the roots lose efficiency and the tree struggles to get moisture and nutrients. When I was still in Houston, my potted trees would go through a quasi-dormant period every summer.


Does anyone else have this problem? I wonder if that's what's happening to my trees.

Bills Figs who lives relatively close by successfully grows his figs in containers. This is what he said on his figs4fun guide: "With the dirt packed in and the top secured with the bungee cords. The plastic covering stays on all year. The only time I take it off is to fertilize the plant, then I put it back on. The cover is 3 mil plastic but thicker would be better. The plastic cover has two purposes: first, to seal the pot so no water escapes (see wicking system in the presentation) and it helps to warm the pot (figs like warm soil). I water through the fill tube which places the water in the bottom 3 1/2 inches of the pot. The fill tube is a 1 1/4 inch PVC pipe which runs to the bottom (3 inches) of the container. This way the plant doesn't get confused by the addition of water from above. It only gets water from below. I fill the container up with water slightly below the overflow hole and place in the garage for winter storage. The plant doesn't drink any water during the winter."


I guess you mean hot and he means warm, James?
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pitangadiego

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Posted Reply with quote  #11 
Maybe a moisture meter might give you some answers.
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