I was up-potting, root pruning, and refeshing the potting mix in some of my fig trees in sizes 3gallon-20 gallon. I noticed a big difference in effort to get the mix off the roots with the Pro-mix. It all came off with a garden hose in less than 5 min each for all of them. When I was using actual soil it was like a big block of clay and I couldn't get most of it off. I actually cut off a couple inches on the sides and the bottom soil and all.

It was so easy untangling and trimming the bare roots. I finished 10 trees in two hours. Last season it sometimes took two hours for one tree in regular soil based mixes.

Pro mix is really the standard these days. I like the organic version and it is not too expensive. Easy and effective. I am also trying out "Roots Organic" from my local hydo shop which has worm castings and other goodies added. So far so good for cuttings mixing with half perlite, a scoop of baked clay particles, a dash of charcoal and friendly fungi spores, it is a bit lighter than promix to begin with and has coir and more fert in it.

Do you add extra Perlite to the Promix or just use it as is? I was able to pick some up on Monday.

Yes, I do 50-50 for cups of cuttings and might add composted pine bark and less perlite for potting up later.
Jason how about you?

Thanks Brent, I figured as much for the cuttings. I should have clarified. I am wondering if you still need to add it when the trees are older.

agree Jason. I also like Pro-Mix BX. I also use Fafard 3B and sometimes 4B mix. This year, I started playing around. In January, I got bored and started mixing, BX with Fafard, and Sta-Gro and perilite. I said I wasn't going to start cuttings inside this year but I got bored and started 12 long flat containers with just 6 cuttings each inside hortizontally. That BX mix is the best though. I love the lightness of it.

I add about 20-30% extra perlite for cuttings. I root them horizontally in a plastic box and then transfer directly to pots. Less perlite for my 1-6 gallons. Fine pinebark and no extra perlite for my 20 gallon or larger.

Marcus I was there on Monday too. I picked up 7 bales of BX and a bag of BRK to try out. They have nice deals there.

I spent today getting my big older figs ready for spring.

Thanks Jason, you were able to get the brk at the coop place? How much pine bark do you use and what brand is it? I have a some left over pine bark mulch from last year it's not nuggets, but I don't know if it is necessarily fine. I would like to try what is working especially with this tree.

I don't recall what brand but I usually have a hard time locating fine bark. The promix brk has perfect sized bark to add a little structure to the mix. But right now many of my older trees still have plain promix. I just started adding stuff last year.

Was is about like this?
http://www.phillipsbark.com/images/HardwoodMulch.jpg
Maybe I will experiment a bit too. I picked up three bales. I'm sure I will be back there soon and I will see if I can get the brk and take a look at it.

Similiar but much finer. I think I will like it. Now I'll have to locate bales.

This is a Hardy Chicago EL airlayer from last season. Those trees are very vigorous. It was already root bound and knotted up pretty good. I potted it in Pro-mix last summer and it came right off with a hose and a dunk in a bucket of water.I cut off the thick roots plus 1/3 of the rest in the 1st and 2nd pictures and untangled the rest.The whole procedure took about 20 minutes.

If you think repotting is easy with pro mix you should try the gritty mix.  I dont even need a hose to expose all the roots.  Just shake a couple of times and done.

I would love to use gritty mix with my figs but I wouldn't be able to lift the 20+ gallon pots with gritty mix in them. How do you move your big trees Ed?

Thanks, Jason I am going to keep an eye out for that the pine bark fines, if I find any maybe I will mix it up and try it out also, I have not really experimented to much with potting mixes. Last year I found a mix that did not contain any fertilizer and I stuck with it all year, it was super cheap also, which helped, but i don't think it was very good in hindsight. The ingredients are actually pine bark fines, compost and natural nutrients what ever that means... I did the repot of that one tree tonight. looking at your pictures I think I could have removed more roots, but I just cut away the big ones and ones that were stuck circling around. It seemed like most of the roots were at the top like it could not get down any further. This pot was so heavy I use a hand truck to wheel it to the spot to work. I really had to work to get it out of the pot. It had rocks in it peices of shredded plastic. It was like sludge mud when I watered it down. Now with that pro mix it was an amazing difference.

I use a hand truck to move my large potted figs.  I use coarse perlite instead of granny grit (which is real heavy).  My problem with promix is that once it gets wet it's even heavier than the gritty mix with the granite.  I am not bashing promix but I bought a large bag of it last year and after opening it left it outside.  After a few rains the bag had to weigh at least 500 lbs.  Way too water retentive for my liking.

@Ed. At the end of the season, I let them dry out and they are very light to move. I do agree with you on water retention. I am going to experiment this year with pine bark fines ratio and possibly adding turface.

@Marcus. If those skinny brown roots are dead cut them off. Nice pruning job BTW. How long did it take you?

Oh, if they are dark like that they are dead for sure? I pulled some out and it was a little thinner then that picture looks, but I did not remove all that. I already repotted it, is that ok to leave it alone? It was maybe 45 minutes from start to finish. I really had to work with the hose to get out all the dirt, pebbles and then untangle everything. I hosed the pot to loosen up the ball and the water just sat on top it won't even penitrate down. I can say this for sure. I watered the mix after I potted it up to try to get everything to settle down and it was so light in comparison. I hope I get better results this year from this tree.
Is that normal for that much root mass to be dead?

With the Pro-mix it is best to pre moisten the mix. For a winter repot, I keep it moist. If water is coming out of the holes it is way too wet. They are going to sitting that way for a couple more months. I am writing a post now about possible amendments.

See I figured I shouldnt moisten it so it would fill in better around the roots. I didn't soak it down tonight where water was running out if the bottom, but I did use more water then the little bit I have been using once a month on my dormant trees.

You should repot this one. The mix probably is isn't evenly moistened. Take the tree out. Get a large bucket or container dump the mix in and moisten it until it resembles moist fluffy chocolate cake. If you are worried about filling the air pockets shake the container every few scoops.

Also, next time you go to co op get the bulk bag of perlite it is a good deal.

Ok, I will do that. I looked back at my post it should say there wasn't water running out if the holes. Thanks for the perlite tip. I have been buying bags of Hartmanns perlite from a nursery locally, but if this is better stuff and a better price.

The bag is as big or bigger than the promix bale. I don't remember the price but definitely a value.

I gently pat the mix down but leave it fairly loose until I put out in the spring. It will be lighter to move and give it a heavy watering and top off the pot with mix and some mulch on top. The mulch will hold in the moisture plus keep the mix and perlite in place.

Thanks, I will do that. I would figure you fertilize the same way, but is extra lime needed for promix? I see it says they add in lime already.

I add some if I add pine bark fines. I add osmocote slow release fertilizer mixed in the mix during repot.

I do plan on adding more fines this year to my older trees.