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Are my trees ready for cuttings?

I would like to donate some cuttings of Lattarulla, Kathleen's Black, Lowes Unknown, and a few others. The trees are very much awake and still growing. Is it a good idea to take cuttings now or would it be better to wait 'til they go dormant?

Dormant is best. After the leaves fall off naturally on their own or with a slight pull that leaves behind no milky sap.

Got it.

I am curious, though, whether anyone's had success with rooting non-dormant cuttings that were shipped to them.

Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by IamKriya
Got it. I am curious, though, whether anyone's had success with rooting non-dormant cuttings that were shipped to them. Thanks!


Yes.  Have been doing it for the last few months by different methods.  Some in perlite, some in compost and others in potting mix.  Think I have been keeping them too wet and have had mold issues to deal with.  Success has been about 50%.  Now I have some going in much less wet media, just barely damp and no mold.  They are looking ok so far with swelling buds. 

Quote:
Originally Posted by IamKriya
Got it.

I am curious, though, whether anyone's had success with rooting non-dormant cuttings that were shipped to them.

Thanks!


As long as the wood is hardened off, you should be fine. I've had good success rooting non dormant but still woody cuttings.

Hi lamKriya,
I rooted from June to end of July and even some in mid-september, and so far so good.
The only issue now is, will they survive the winter ?
Well, I'll see !

you can root any wood from a fig tree anytime to be honest. the only time you need high humidity is when the wood is green, like in your instance. The best way to root softwood cuttings is to remove all the leaves except the top 2 and cut them in half. add a slice at the bottom of the cutting and dust with rooting hormone. Stick your cutting in a 1 gallon pot or larger with a good draining potting mix. Then place a humidity dome around it, I use 2 liter bottles with the bottoms gone as a humidity dome. keep the soil moist but not the leaves thats what the dome is for. watch for new growth and mold. as the cuttings starts growing start twisting the cap off a little each week. if it looks like it's wilting replace the cap or tighten it back up ASAP. The main battle will be introducing the plant to lower humidity levels once it start growing.

 Dormant wood contrary to belief don't need the high humidity and the use of humidity domes encourage leaf growth not roots. The use of high humidity on dormant wood makes it's so warm around the buds the plant breaks dormancy and pushes leaves using up all the stored energy in the cutting. Next the leafs goes through whats called transpiration, and if there are no roots to support this natural process the already exhausted cutting will die. people say oh you need humidity for your dormant cutting or it will dry out in the pot. well if people would use 1 gallon or larger pots and stop using little cups the cutting will be deep enough it won't dry out, "if the soil is kept moist". these little cups people use really erk me and they wonder why failure rates are so high it's called transplant shock, when you start with a trade gallon you don't need to transplant until the plant is dormant and the risk of transplant shock is gone. why does everyone need to see the roots forming? we're not in school anymore and we all know what roots look like. So leave them alone, in the dark, and let them do their thing. The plant will reward you in the end if you start with a larger pot. Good luck rooting your softwood cuttings and please keep us updated.

Hi Ryan,
My last batch of rooting (in Sept) were all fresh cuttings and 30% were green cuttings, they are all growing now, with 2-3 inch leaves on them.
But, FWY, here in LA it's still summer ;/

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