For those who asked:

• The date was 06.10.2015 not 06.15.2015 like I said in the video.
• I have found commercially grown trees do not bare-root nearly this easily.
• There is many factors that determine what size container to use and consequently how much of the root mass to leave on the tree.

James, may i know what the medium mix contain?

3 part pine bark mulch
1 part coarse perlite
1 part expanded shale

I removed the fine particles through a 1/8" screen. 

James,

Thank you for making these videos, it's great to see how you do it.  I can see you take off quite a lot of the root length.

I have lots of questions!  Do you think this tree fruit for you this season? How old is it?

I imagine it will have a bit of shock now. How long do you think before you start to see new growth on top?

Thanks again

Hi James,
Did you cut the green growth ?
I'm surprised that this tree was not actively growing on 10th of June.
I'm surprised by, how dry your mix is.
... Those roots look like wool ... Someone willing to knit ?

Thanks James
I think that soil had a bit more time but still the inner part was tangled like a rockstar hair-do after a long show:)
I am developing my own method hopefully will try it next year with my bt first.

I wonder how the guys in the "pokoktin" facebook page using large concrete pots - how do they bare root the tree??

Thanks for sharing James!  that is one interesting way to prune those roots. I shall be trying some similar endeavors soon! 
wish me luck!  :)

By the way, your medium mix is quite interesting, I think I will be using some to try out how I like it.  Thank again!  I loooove videos to learn.

Mic,

There is not enough top growth for the tree to show any stress from bare-rooting.  Normally, I would do this while the tree is still dormant or just starting to swell. Humidity is important if the tree is already leafed out. When I lived on the Gulf Coast, humidity was not so much of an issue.  In Colorado, there is very little.  Most of my trees were repotted 3-4 weeks ago.  I think most of them are already in growth mode.

I started this tree in Dec. 2012.  I have a very short growing season, so I am not sure the trees I bare-rooted will produce much fruit this year.  Most of my trees are in the same boat, but I have a handful of trees which produce fruit for me this year.

jdsfrance,

I have yet to top prune a tree to bring it into "balance" with the roots I am removing.  Since the trees are usually dormant, there is not so much demand on the root system.  If the tree starts to break dormancy before enough roots have regrown, the top growth will slow down a bit.  It will catch up.  I still have 5 trees which are alive, but not yet (or have just started) growing.

As I mentioned in the video, I like the root ball to be on the dry side when I bare-root trees.  I provide moisture for the roots with the spray bottle, but I do not like the extra weight in the growing mix.  So I let them dry out a bit before root-pruning.

Jerry,

I do not recommend root pruning outside of the dormant period.  Except for those people in areas with mild winters, I'd say in the few weeks before bud break.  Also, it is important to note the growing mix I use is very loose and requires more frequent watering than most are use to. I am planning on setting up an ebb and flow hydroponic system to water/feed the trees.  The AirPots will go into a slightly larger container that will fill up with water from the water then drain out.

Yes, I realised afterwards you're in a cold zone and that you're still root pruning quite late.

One thing I want to figure out is how big and productive a tree I can maintain in a pot of a certain size. I am guessing there is a trade off between taking off enough of the roots so it doesn't get root bound within the one growing season (I assume root pruning during the growing season is something to avoid), and leaving enough roots to support strong growth and fruiting on the top.

Another thing I noticed is that cuttings don't usually successfully fruit in their first season. I wonder why that is. I worry that if I take off too much of the roots then the tree might reset and act like a cutting and not produce any fruit that season. I guess I'll be experimenting next season!

Thanks for the pointers

I was planning on leaving the top 15-20% of the containers dry to force the roots down into the containers. My thoughts on salts is to flush the system with plain water for a few days when replacing the nutrient solution. Do you think that is sufficient?

It's my understanding that when using an ebb&flow table occasional top watering is required to flush accumulated salts out. I just saw a diagram showing EC values in containers under different water schemes - a lot of fertilizer builds up in the top bit of soil. Trying to find it again....

Thanks for the tip on the top watering. I'll plan to do it when I flush the reservoir.

Bump! It's almost that time again to care for our dormant trees. James, thank you so much for posting these videos! These were so helpful to see before attempting for the first time.

I have to ask this question that has been gnawing at me...all of you experienced fig growers, how common is it for a tree to die from the process of bare rooting, then root pruning? Do trees die as much as half the time? Or just rarely...trying to figure out how many back up trees to keep