i'm sure we all know that moving cuttings to outside after it has been growing inside can cause the leaves to burn if not moved into sun slowly. 

well.. i think it doesn't take all that much to burn the leaves and possibly dry up the stems. 

it took me less than 15 min before the leaves were curling up in full sun while i was moving my two cups to 1 gals. it didn't do too much of damage since once they were in the 1 gal, i moved them indoor in my humidity bin. the leaves are going back to normal, but i can see where we just leave them out there once the spring is here... take a lunch and come back to sad looking cuttings. 

I think is a combination of factors.. the wind, the outdoor humidity difference, and the sunshine also... that is why it is best to put them in a shade and transition them slowly. Even if they are by the window, the sun and wind are filtered through the glass pane.  Moving them to a porch, under a bush for a few hours, increasing that time is better.

I am so happy for my figs that they do not have to go through that painful adjustment stage. The weather is 80 every day and they start growing outside enjoying the sun from the very beginning.
You guys in the Far Cold have to be or so careful and creative!
My hat if off to you!

Hey Doug I'll exchange your winter fun for mine???? lol

We're actually expecting above freezing temperatures this coming week for the first time in months lol

I have a sections of wood lattice that I use to dress up my compost pile. When it is time to put my young ones outside, I space two of our patio chairs just under 4 feet apart and lay the ends of a lattice section on each chair and then secure the lattice to the chair. After about 4 or 5 days under the lattice and timed to when I have a couple days off, I then put them in full sun in the morining and afternoon but back under the lattice during mid day. By time that is over they are good to go.

If I had trees providing dappled shade that would work good too. I mostly have shade from structures, which can be very dangerous for your tender plants. I say this because it's all or nothing and I nearly fried a hard earned fig tree once when I took my kid to a parade and came back to see the little tree cooking in the mid day sun, had a placed it one foot over it would have been fine. It took that tiny tree the remainder of the summer to recover from that insult.

I'm quickly noticing that dormant winter cuttings are a different animal than than rooting in the fall. Last Oct I just put my cuttings out side in the shade in a bin with some water in the bottom for humidity. No problems at all with the cuttings. I was able to put them in full sun by the end of Nov. The cuttings I'm doing now are very sensitive to the limited sun light they receive in a south facing window. Maybe I'm trying to crack the lid open to far to soon or the sun is heating up the bins to much? Either way I've had to close back the blinds on the window alittle more today and reduce the amount the lid is cracked open as well. The cuttings are still fine but some of the leafs look a little curled on the ends and some have just a touch of brown on the edges. That's on a few of the cuttings. Others do not seem effected at all by the changing conditions. I assume the ones not bothered have a more robust root system at this point while others are not quite as advanced. Either way it's touch and go right now with my cuttings. I think I will just wait next time and start them in March out side so they are not so sensitive. I'm in too deep to turn back now though! ;)

Mine were out all day yesterday and loved it. That's why I skip the humidity chamber and just set them in the window after roots show but before leaves form. That way all the leaves are hardy from day 1.

different location, different set up. killed enough house plants in this place to know humidity bin is necessary for my figs.