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TorontoJoe

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Hello - For many father successfully grew figs. Feeling nostalgic, a few years ago I decided to try it for myself. I began with two Chicago Hardy bushes. Given my minimal experience I figured they would be safest. I've covered them in winter. They have died back to the ground but have never produced a single fig.

Early this year I convinced a local shop owner to sell me to trees from his private stash. I believe the species to be Dottato but I'm not exactly sure yet. I plan to overwinter these guys in my attached garage. I bought them early this year when they were little more than twigs. IU repotted in 15 gallon pots with a good soil mix. You can see from the pictures that they're green and healthy looking, But again - No figs!

I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. They get lots of sun and water. For the potted ones I used a mix of quality potting soil, sand and peat moss. And I'm not over fertilizing....In the case if the pots not at all yet. I'm in zone 5b.

Everyone I know who grows figs gets a good crop - or at least a few. The guy who sold me these last trees has figs growing on his. I see people propagating cuttings and getting figs coming up on the cutting....

I don't know what I'm doing wrong here....Can anyone offer any suggestions.

IMG_2368.JPG 
IMG_2367.JPG 
IMG_2366.JPG


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Luzzu

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Reply with quote  #2 
Hi TorontoJoe
doesn't sound like you are doing anything wrong
you just need Patience
it' almost too late to fertilize this year but starting in may next year fertilize
read the post from Ascpete about fertilizing works well for me
good luck

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Reply with quote  #3 
Dear friend,

I taste one sweet fig last year, so I am hoping that I can get some sweet fig this year, I bought few nursery fig trees at March, all of them are long stick ( no branch) in small pots and I planted them in ground, 5 weeks passed, no figlet, I went back to Nursery, all of their fig trees had many figlets, so I was very disappointed.

I think that nursery potted fig trees like sticks ( no branch) in small pot for some reason.
1). Easy to transportation
2). Easy to bear fig in current year, ( but bad for next year fig)

I am newbie, so I might be wrong, I guess that.
Sometime, it is better to ask yourself questions,
1). Why fig tree bear fig?
2). Why fig tree grow more leaves?
3). Why fig tree grow more roots?

If roots get some nutrition, It grows more roots and more leaves, When it feels that timing are right ( DNA stuff), and if it has leftover nutrition, it bears fig at right time (DNA).

Since figlets has lowest priority.
If you plant your tree in ground, It is harder to bear fig because roots can grow and ask for more nutrition.  ( potted fig tree, roots growing are limited in pot)
If you plant has more leaf tips, it ask for more nutrition using grow hormone, therefore, let chance for your fig tree to bear figs.

If you plant your very young fig tree in ground or re-pot them in bigger pot, your chance to get fig for current year should be deceased.
Tree growing are very tricky, small pot roots ball means less chance for fig next year because it can not suck up more nutrition to support more branches and more leaves)

I think that best idea is that, you may feed  them heavy dose of fertilizer at right time, I find that fig tree can handle high dose salts or fertilizer.
I feed heavy dose fertilizer at spring time for all my newly in ground fig trees, all of them are bearing figs now, Although, they are late by 2 months, I hope that they are still able to ripen them .


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VeryNew2Figs

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Reply with quote  #4 
Herman, why do you suggest round pots instead of square pots?
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Brunswick, Kadota, Ischia Green, Desert King, Osborne Prolific (slow but steady), Malta Black, Violette de Bordeaux, Texas Everbearing, Beall, White Adriatic, Nolo Pink Eyed Lady.
Rooting: Ronde de Bordeaux, Celeste, Nero 600 m, Violetta Bayernfeing, Marseilles Black VS, Celeste.
TorontoJoe

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Reply with quote  #5 
Hey Guys - Thanks for the input.

Ricky - I'm looking at what you wrote about fertilizer. It's my understanding that too much fertilizer inhibits fruit growth....

Herman - The guy I bought the trees from grows them in 2.5 gallon buckets, filled with garden soil. Maybe 3 holes in each and sitting on his asphalt driveway. These trees are putting out 15 - 20 figs each. By no means do I doubt your wisdom - I'll try anything that will get me some figs. I'd like to better understand what you're suggesting here. 

-I should remove them from those pots and remove all the soil - then mix the existing soil from each 15 gallon pot with 5 gallons of perlite and one pound of limestone powder?

-What does the limestone do? Is it just drainage? If so will the sand not do the trick?

- For the in ground Chicago Hardy, how deep should I be incorporating the limestone?

-I don't understand the benefit of putting a pot in the ground? Or why I should drill holes in the sides and plug the bottom? Or why they should be round? These are 15 gallon and considerably larger than the 2.5 gallons in which their cousins are bearing fruit.....

-"Don't water in ground trees" - I've never heard anything but that they need lots of water in summer? What's with that?

Again thanks - I'm learning a lot here.

One more thing - I'm in Sicily every two years and I'm headed there this August. I intend to bring back some cuttings from the family homestead. Figs and olives. How long do you figure I can store them once cut and what would you say it the best way to protect them for transport? I'm afraid they will dry out and die before I get them home to  start rooting. Also not sure if I should be taking new or old wood. Thoughts?




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Smyfigs

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Reply with quote  #6 
Joe,
Lots of great questions and asking is good. I am by far not a pro so most of your questions will be answered by others.

As far as the lime, it helps lower the ph because figs prefer acidic soil. First check your soil ph level with a tester. You can buy a 3-in1 soil tester (ph, moisture, light) for $10 on Amazon. I believe a good acidic level for figs is 6.5.

The holes on the side of the pot help areate the roots and prevents it from getting root bound. This also promotes root growth in young trees.

If you are fertilizing, be sure to check the NPK levels. If the "N" or nitrogen level is high then it may produce beautiful green leaves but little/no fruit.

Using garden soil: I never use garden soul for my potted trees/plants! There is a difference between "garden" " "potting" soils. I always try to buy the best potting soil at the best price then add my own ingredients to ensure success.

Cuttings: i am not sure how you plan to transport your cuttings but I had cuttings from a nearby tree that I put in a bag that were still good even after one week. But this is something you definately want to get good advice on. And, if there is a list for receiving cuttings, pleae add my name to it..:-)

By the way, there are a lot of great postings on this forum about all of the topics/questions you have & you may want to do more in-depth reading using the search function.

I hope this is helpful.

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jdsfrance

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Reply with quote  #7 
Hi TorontoJoe,

Welcome to the forum.

Each grower has his own ways to do and uses own tricks. It is up to you to try and see what works best for you.

A tree dying back to the roots every year will have a hard time producing. So you should find a better protection for your tree. For instance, you could dig it up in the Autumn, and put back in place in the Spring.
I see in the photo of the in ground that it has several stems growing. One remark is: the more stems the later they'll all be.
Even with fig trees that are bearing fruits, one should remove the root-suckers asap. I just cleaned 10 from my bigger fig tree
So select 3 or 5 and clean the others, just like with tomato plants.
You could chose another path, and that would be to let them all grow and airlayer/root all but 3 that would stay. You would be targeting the propagation of the tree, instead of fruit production.
The ones you remove, you pot them , overwinter them in a garage or basement or cold greenhouse, and come next Spring you put them in the ground.
It takes some time and is some work, but no pain, no gain .
I'm in Zone7 and it already takes some work too get them to fruit ... So in Zone5... it can be done, but you'll have to provide good cares !
For me here, I have to have 3 years old wood on the stems for them to produce fruits.

For your potted ones, they look unhappy - not enough leaves on the branches. Not knowing the history of the tree, it ain't easy to tell why. But, what I see is that they are a bit tall for those pots.
They are perhaps just adapting to a new environment ...

As for fertilizer, you can fertilize until 1st of August. If you don't fertilize ... Don't put high expectations on the trees. In pots, the soil gets depleted quite quick, so IMO no choice but fertilize.
Limestone is a fertilizer. It will raise the PH, not lower it. Limestone is lots of calcium and trees need that to set fruit.

Burying the pots would get the roots to escape to the dirt and have the trees feeding (water+nutrients) on the outside dirt too - which makes them thrive.
Come Fall, you'll be cutting the outside-pot roots.

By the way, are you sure that your HC is a true HC. In your zone, you need fast ripening strains. Don't go with the first strain you can get, but select the ones that are really adapted, like HC.

Good luck ! and yes, use patience. It takes me 3 years growing a tree for her to fruit ... when she does ... or she'll get/gets the compost pile ... Life is hard ...

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TorontoJoe

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Reply with quote  #8 
Lol! You guys are great! I love this forum. It pleads there are more tricks than there are varieties of figs.

I'm going to take all this great advice and maybe take a few risks as well. I'm headed out the door now for some fertilizer. And I'll be trimming the in ground fig down today

Thanks all!

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TorontoJoe

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Reply with quote  #9 
Thanks Herman. I think I understand now. I actually don't know that these are Kadota. I was just making an assumption based on what i thought it looked like.bit may very well be a Celeste. If I ever get a fruit I'll be able to better identify. I do know that the guy I got them from is very successful with them so probably not Kadota then.

As for the pot.....I actually hadn't planned to put them in the ground. I was planning to continue them in the pot above ground as I've seen done before.

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Reply with quote  #10 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smyfigs
Joe,  As far as the lime, it helps lower the ph because figs prefer acidic soil.


Not to be argumentative, but that is not true, lime increases pH. And is why I have no idea why people use it? I would rather add calcium without increasing pH.
I don't bury my pots, they are on concrete or grass, or soil.
To me the potted trees look bad. You have no foliage on them to speak of. Maybe early in the year?
Also lack of fertilizer is concerning, you get out what you put in. I would fertilize them now, it's still way early in the season.

Here are some plants I started this year from cuttings


Here is a 2nd leaf plant (Osborne Prolific).  Notice leaves from the top to the bottom. Notice figs, notice the deep green color! I'm concerned about the lack of leaves on your potted plants.



Note I don't add lime, I don't pinch my plants either, unless very tall, and I would like scaffolds or fruiting branches to develop. I'm still learning but so far the plants are producing ton's of figs. And with all those leaves to make sugar, these figs are going to be top rate! The amount of sweetness depends on how many leaf clusters supply the fruit with sugars from photosynthesis. The more leaves, the sweeter the fruit. Also this plant is 2nd leaf in a 10 gallon root pouch (which is supposed to be like a 20 gallon pot). Note the plant doesn't seem to be suffering at all from a too large of pot. I have 4-5 more 2nd leafs that look just like this one.

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TorontoJoe

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Reply with quote  #11 
I experiencing fig envy. Those are beautiful!

I just did a PH test and its indicating 4.5. Which means to me is slightly acidic. If I understand correctly lime would make the soil less acidic so I don't think I want that.

I'm a bit averse to chemical fertilizer so I'm putting in some manure. I figure it can't hurt.

I'm new to this and don't think the term "pinch" has come up. What is it? Is it something I should be doing to my skinny potted or in ground figs?

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Reply with quote  #12 
Hi Joe:

Are u sure that it is PH 4.5?, it is extremely acidic, you should add lime rightaway.

What kind of manure you put in soil? Manure from farm? or bag manure from big box company?

If you put those bag's manure from big box, They work quite well and pretty sure that your fig tree will bear lots of fig next year.

If you use those manure from farm, it takes quite long to compost properly.

It is little bit late now to bear figlet, because it won't be able to ripe them before winter,  However, It is still good idea to add some gentle fertilizer, so it grows more roots and leaves and preparing a big crop for next year.

Again, you are in cold area, you should harden your fig trees then winter protection before winter.


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TorontoJoe

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Reply with quote  #13 
I bought one of these at home depot

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.moisture-light-and-ph-meter.1000719599.html

I don't know how accurate it is but it definitely came up as 4.5. This does surprise me as I just mixed this soil up recently from good quality soil, sand and manure. I thought figs liked more acidic soil...Drew wrote earlier "As far as the lime, it helps lower the ph because figs prefer acidic soil."

If you think the lime will help I do have it now so will throw on. I don't know how well I'll really be able to work it down but perhaps if it's on top it'll trickle down with water.

The manure is 100% sheep and pre-composted from bags. No fresh poop for me...



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ricky

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Reply with quote  #14 
Fig tree like slightly acidic like 6- 6.5, 4.5 mean than it is 20+ times more acidic than what fig tree like, If your meter is accurate, you should use lime to boost your soil Ph to 6 -7 level.

not sure why your soil is so acidic.

I think that those bagged manure, Their PH is not regulated.



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TorontoJoe

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Reply with quote  #15 
I'm going to re check tomorrow with PH test strips. Thanks
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Reply with quote  #16 
I would use that soil for blueberries. They would grow great in there! I had the same problem with my blueberry plants until I figured out the right PH. They went from being almost dead to thriving like you wouldn't believe. Hopefully fixing your PH will do the same for your Figs:)
VeryNew2Figs

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Reply with quote  #17 
Drew51:  Forgive my ignorance.  In post 10 when you refer to "second leaf,"  what do you mean? 
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Cheryl
Chicago, Zone 6a (That's what they say, but it still feels like 5)
Growing:
  Hardy Chicago, Black Mission,
Brunswick, Kadota, Ischia Green, Desert King, Osborne Prolific (slow but steady), Malta Black, Violette de Bordeaux, Texas Everbearing, Beall, White Adriatic, Nolo Pink Eyed Lady.
Rooting: Ronde de Bordeaux, Celeste, Nero 600 m, Violetta Bayernfeing, Marseilles Black VS, Celeste.
Windowsill_Gardens

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Reply with quote  #18 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TorontoJoe
I bought one of these at home depot

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.moisture-light-and-ph-meter.1000719599.html

I don't know how accurate it is but it definitely came up as 4.5. This does surprise me as I just mixed this soil up recently from good quality soil, sand and manure. I thought figs liked more acidic soil...Drew wrote earlier "As far as the lime, it helps lower the ph because figs prefer acidic soil."

If you think the lime will help I do have it now so will throw on. I don't know how well I'll really be able to work it down but perhaps if it's on top it'll trickle down with water.

The manure is 100% sheep and pre-composted from bags. No fresh poop for me...



I grow in zone five, and my figs are just forming their main crops now, which is normal in my area. When are your average last frost and first frost dates? Dying back to the soil line slows the trees down, and not all zone five gardens have enough ripening days for the tree to recover. Are your trees trying to produce figs but just never ripening them? Or are they not trying to set figs at all? Could be different problems. Also, you should fertilize when you reach your frost free date.

Pinching means that after every 5-6 leaves one pinches out the growing tip on a branch to encourage branching and putting energy into ripening fruits. You have to take into account the shape and size of the tree as well as the form you wish for the tree to have. I tend to like my trees a bit shrubby with around three main trunks per tree. I sometimes pinch my established trees.

The potted trees need to concentrate on developing leaves. Were those early season pictures? Proper ph and pinching could help otherwise. The fertilizer should be a huge help. I never use soil in containers, I use a soilless potting mix. It is better for the roots in a container to have a lighter and more airy mix than soil allows.

The Hardy Chicago needs some of the little suckers pruned out. They are too small to fruit, are stealing energy from fruiting wood, and are preventing airflow and light from reaching the inside of the tree. Pick your main branches and remove a few of the scrubby bits that are competing with them.

Your HC looks quite healthy overall. It's just a matter of a little troubleshooting. ;)

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TorontoJoe

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Reply with quote  #19 
Hi

I'm told that here in Toronto last frost is May 9th and first frost is October 6th. 

Frankly I'd be happy if they looked like they were even trying to produce figs. So far though I've seen nothing at all.

All of those pictures were taken this past weekend. Thats all the growth I've had this year. In the potted trees I'm not sure why leaves are only developing from the tips????

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Windowsill_Gardens

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Reply with quote  #20 
It's not that unusual for young trees to concentrate leaves at the tips. If you pinch just the growing tips off the potted ones it should encourage them to start producing branches and leaves along the older growth. The neighborhood groundhog or squirrels did it for me this spring. LOL

Okay, you have a similar number of growing days to what I get, and Hardy Chicago is my go-to tree. I'm wondering if your Hardy Chicago might have been a tissue culture plant. Sometimes that can return the plant to an immature state, and it needs to reach a certain age/size to begin fruiting. Lots of nurseries and box stores sell those up north, so that is often among my first thoughts.

Another option in the north could be too much water. Growers in hotter longer seasons have to combat lower water tables and higher water needs than northern growers. An inground tree in Toronto won't need as much supplemental water as one in Texas. During a hot dry spell give it a drink, but otherwise let the soil get a little dry before watering well again. You could be accidentally triggering growth over fruit by being too kind. Also you might try a fertilizer that has a higher second number than the first number in future, as too much nitrogen can make a tree all leaves and no fruit.

Third possibility is the winter damage. That slows fruiting way down. You could try talking to other inground growers in your area about beefing up your winter protection. You could also try to root a cutting off your trees and see if growing it in a container and overwintering in the garage produces a fruiting tree for you.

The leaves and growth certainly look like my HC, but there is always the possibility that the fig was misidentified. I don't think it a likely possibility between the leaf shape and the apparent hardiness of the tree though.


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TorontoJoe

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Reply with quote  #21 
This is interesting. I had been watering the in ground and potted trees every day. I never thought water could directly affect fruit production. I guess I'll do some pinching and lay off the water
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Reply with quote  #22 
I was given small starts 3 years ago.
Plants were from Alabama, I live in northern Indiana, Overwinter then in attached garage .
This year thry are loaded with figs
Last year on ripe fig 1st of Oct.

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jpeg image.jpg (996.45 KB, 27 views)


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TorontoJoe

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Reply with quote  #23 
I got some real PH test strips and checked my soil again. It was coming up somewhere between 6.5 to 7...So that piece of junk meter is going back to HD.

I'm going to back off on the water and did some pinching last night so fingers crossed - I don't know how long it normally takes for the effects of pinching to show.



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Pana13

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Reply with quote  #24 
Hello Toronto Joe.. You asked if the lime used is for better drainage...I think your thinking of the limestones (rocks). What we mean about lime is not the rocks that you may be thinking(correct me if im wrong )....the lime you need is called dolmite lime which you can buy at home depot or lowes. It's in a small bag. I too am in Toronto. Not to brag but with this great weather we have had here I have lots of figs on most trees and you should have too. Don't give up as eventually (with the great help from this forum) you will get it. But yes I recommend you add the right lime. Hopefully it's not to late. Otherwise now you know for next year.
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Reply with quote  #25 
Thanks. Would you think I still need the lime though if my ph is 6.5 to 7?
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Pana13

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Reply with quote  #26 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TorontoJoe
Thanks. Would you think I still need the lime though if my ph is 6.5 to 7?

That maybe someone more experienced then me can answer as I was thinking the same thing last week. Also I am sure you have read by now about pinching? This year I pinched in the spring and found a huge huge difference. I also had a tree that was not giving me any figs for last year or two so before I was ready to toss it I thought to just stick it in the ground for experimenting. This little tree is completely full of figs. It over 60 figs and it's just a little tree. Maybe try this next year. Here is a picture I have attached. Again I am fairly new to this. Remember I live in same zone as you.

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jpeg IMG_20160714_192007.jpg (233.03 KB, 18 views)

TorontoJoe

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Reply with quote  #27 
That is a great crop! Bravo! I just started pinching....yesterday. Fingers crossed.

Below is a photo of one of the dozens of trees on the old family homestead in Italy. Not even one of the big ones. No little trees in pots here....I'm there next month and plan to devastate the crop! (featuring my cousin and zia)

fig-1.jpg 
fig-2.jpg 



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Pana13

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Reply with quote  #28 
Yes with that blue clear sky everyday you would not have to worry about figs production
TorontoJoe

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Reply with quote  #29 
lol...i suppose it's close but if i need to choose between figs or a stable economy.....
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Pana13

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Reply with quote  #30 
Toronto Joe if you want good producing fig trees let me know. I will tell you a couple of places in Ontario that have good trees and not expensive.

TorontoJoe

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Reply with quote  #31 
I appreciate that. Please send me a private message. Thank you!
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asimina_triloba

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Reply with quote  #32 
Toronto Joe - I live close by.  I have potted figs in almost identical conditions to yours.  There's lots of great advice on here already, so please forgive me if I'm repeating any of it.

I started pinching this year, and it has helped with fruit production.  I bury the bottoms of my pots about 20cm into the ground.  It helps them gather nutrients and water during the growing season.  I also fertilize them very weakly through the spring and summer - a 20-20-20 mix at less than half the suggested amount for potted plants every few weeks. 

Also, despite my best efforts and hopes, I didn't get any fruit for the first two years I grew figs.  I got lots of foliage, but no fruit.  Oh well.

Good luck!

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Also growing peaches, cherries and pawpaws.
TorontoJoe

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Reply with quote  #33 
Thank you asimina_triloba - I think you're correct and that the pinching will do the trick. I want keep on with the sheep manure fertilizer for the time being but I may very well go for something different if I don't see something by next year. I'm now up to 2 Chicago hardy, 2 negronne and 2 other fig trees that I think are Celeste. I'll keep trying and definitely report back here when I have some results. Good or bad. I just pinched this week so I'll let you know if I see anything.

I just love how passionate everyone is about figs...This is like no other forum I've ever been on...and I've been on many...

You are all great! We should have an annual FIG FESTA - where everyone gets together somewhere and we talk figs - with show and tell and have fig experts speak... Great group!

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ricky

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Reply with quote  #34 
Hi Joe:

You just need Patience, read post from Ascpete about fig riping need windows of 30day-60day-90day.
It means that if you see small figlet, You still need 60day + 90day = 5 months for fig to ripen.
Do you think that your tree can ripen your fig at -10C cold winter? probably no.

I have 2 newly planted in ground Chicago hardy at Spring time, They are bearing many figs on it now from April and hoping that it will ripen at Septmeber, Your CH looks very healthy, once its roots spread out and find jackpot nutrition, it will bear fig for you at right time next year, I used lots of sheep manure as well,

I have 3 small negronne/VDB from difference source for testing, They will bear "Breba" fig next year Spring time while leaves out same time, I just need them to grow more nodes now but not figlet to waste nutrition.

There are couple not clear theory, For In ground young fig tree, since roots is not spread out, you might still need to water them occasionally, but for potted fig tree, you must water them, If it has more leaves, you need to water them more often, or If weather is very hot, you need to water them more often as well, you should fertilizer them occasionally because the soil gets depleted quite quick.

Good luck for all your fig trees.





 






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TorontoJoe

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Reply with quote  #35 
Thanks Ricky. No figlets so definitely nothing this year
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TorontoJoe

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Reply with quote  #36 
Ok. I pinched only a week ago. I don't want to get too excited. Is this a figlet?

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Reply with quote  #37 
That is indeed a figlet. Congratulations! You will probably want to think about how to protect your fruit from critters down the line. It'll be awhile before it ripens, and if you have problems with squirrels or birds, they can go after the fruit once it gets big/colorful enough to attract their attention.
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TorontoJoe

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Reply with quote  #38 
Amazing! t this point it's terrific to see anything at all. I feel like a proud new papa! I'm doubting that I'll be eating any ripe figs this year but just seeing that makes me hopeful. I'll post more as the figlets grow. Maybe someone could help me to identify the species. When I asked the guy I got them from the response was, "is-a-fig"
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Reply with quote  #39 
Well some of my fig tree I don't pinch, just chop them off something like half of the main stem.
After a month or two the plants will produce some new shoots and later turn into branches.

Here is what I did to one of my plants.#Negronne.

Negronne.jpg 
Negronne1.jpg 

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pino

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Reply with quote  #40 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TorontoJoe
Ok. I pinched only a week ago. I don't want to get too excited. Is this a figlet?
Oops strike 1. 
Looks like you have a nice new branch pushing.  You can see the new 2 leaf tips starting to form.  
That's OK its normal.
When you pinch sometime you get new branching sometimes you get figlets sometime both.
Its OK you will probably get figlets forming at other nodes. 
I find when pinching I usually get 50/50 new branches/figlets.  It does depend on the variety.

When pinching you also need to keep in mind the shape of the tree you want to grow. 


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TorontoJoe

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Reply with quote  #41 
I just got 2 Negronne plants. I'm really getting hooked on figs. Maybe it's the challenge of getting them to grow here.
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TorontoJoe

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Reply with quote  #42 
VICTORY IS MINE!

Well after many false alarms and much dissapointment I just returned from our family vacation to this. This lone little figlet on one of my Chicago Hardy planted in the ground.

I know I won't be eating any this year but this is my very first actual fig that I succeeding in growing myself. I feel like a proud papa.

Thanks all for the great advice. I think it was a combination of things but the pinching seemed to have a pretty dramatic effect.

victory.JPG


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