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Encanto Farms Nursery > Topics > Beewax for sealing cuttings?
 
 


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Ekierk

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Posted Reply with quote  #1 
I am wondering if I can use beeswax to seal cuttings? I have lots of it, I would melt the beeswax and then dip the ends into it. Would it harm the cuttings? I want to seal them to prevent my cuttings to be lost from mold.
WillsC

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Posted Reply with quote  #2 
Sure I don't see why not.   At what stage are you having trouble with mold? 
Maro2Bear

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Posted Reply with quote  #3 
Greetings

Beeswax is perfectly fine. Any wax will do the trick really to seal the ends, but this keeps the cuttings from drying out, not from getting moldy. Mold on cuttings is usually caused by too much moisture, not enough fresh air, coupled with temperatures that are too high.
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Mark B., Glenn Dale, MD Zone 7a
greenfig

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Posted Reply with quote  #4 
I use this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Walter-E-Clark-Son-Grafting/dp/B000NCTJCU/ref=pd_sim_lg_4
I believe it is based on the beeswax, it works very well.
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Ekierk

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Posted Reply with quote  #5 
I just use normal beeswax because I have bees. I want it so the cuttings I have now wont dry out when I root them in March. It wont protect from mold but it can help, The only thing is will the heat kill the cutting? Can I use something like elmers glue?
Ekierk

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Posted Reply with quote  #6 
I have a problem with mold during when I try to root it. I use spaghnam moss,I get some mold, but not a lot.
Maro2Bear

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Posted Reply with quote  #7 
greetings,

The heat from the melted wax won't damage or kill your cutting. Yes, Elmer's or any other type glue does the same trick if u are just trying to keep your cutting from drying out. Heat wax 'til liquid, dip cutting ends in liquid wax, let cool, wrap your cuttings, place n fridge 'til u are ready to start the rooting process.
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Mark B., Glenn Dale, MD Zone 7a
can_smokva

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Posted Reply with quote  #8 
Agree with suggestion Maro2Bear posted.
Rotted only 3 batches of cuttings this far.
With first two batches of cuttings used melted paraffin wax cooled down to keep it barely liquid and dipped ends o cuttings in, sealed really well.
with third batch after root initials showed in sphagnum moss, wrapped the upper portion of the cuttings that was going to be above soil line with parafilm tape.
did not need to use humidity bin/box after potting cuttings in the cups with perlite.
Exposed them to room environment immediately.
Increased my success rate from 40% to 75%.
still lost some cuttings due to overwatering and almost one due to under watering.
Next will try to dip upper portion of cuttings in melted wax.
However, noticed increased mold development if wrapped cuttings in parafilm tape prior to placing cuttings in bag with SM.

Damir
Ekierk

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Posted Reply with quote  #9 
Seeing from your success rate, I will use the heated wax
cis4elk

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Posted Reply with quote  #10 
If it's smoking hot, it will hurt them. I usually shoot for just melted, if it gets too hot because I got distracted with something for a bit too long I let it cool until it is safe to dip my finger tip in it without pain.
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bullet08

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Posted Reply with quote  #11 
i can see the benefit of sealing with the wax for storage and so on... but, really... i'm usually too busy rooting to bother with melting wax and sealing the cuttings. any cutting i have gets processed and bagged for rooting as soon as i get them.
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Pete
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"don't talk to me about naval tradition. It's nothing but rum, sodomy and the lash." - sir winston churchill
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***** all my figs have FMV/FMD, in case you're wondering. *****
***** and... i don't sell things. what little i have will be posted here in winter for first come first serve base to be shared. no, i'm not a socialist...*****
BronxFigs

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Posted Reply with quote  #12 
Go to any hardware store and buy a wax ring/gasket used for sealing toilet bowls.  The wax is soft at room temperatures, and you can just smear the ends of the cuttings with the wax.  It's very easy to use, and the wax ring will last forever.  It's also good to use on pruning cuts, and grafts. 

Forget the glues, and melting hot wax....these wax rings cost me $1.52.

This idea came from "ascpete"......thanks Pete!



Frank



HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO ALL !
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leon_edmond

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Posted Reply with quote  #13 
I just light a candle and allow it to drip on the cut ends. I always seal my cuttings this way and they seem to last a long time. Bees Wax will work just as well!
Ekierk

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Posted Reply with quote  #14 
That is a good idea with the candle wax. I would like to use what I have, rather then buying new things. I will use the beeswax because I have so much of it
gorgi

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Posted Reply with quote  #15 
I normally do not use any seal at all.

But I once did use grafting-wax when storing them fig cuttings,
big mistake, all turned up into a big sticky gooey mess.
Probably; simple (hard) candle-wax/latex-paint would have been
a better choice. (I am not familiar with bee-wax.)

I do see some advantage to seal the top-end (less drying).

However, I am not sure about the bottom-end; some say it
encourages rot (while rooting the twig)?
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ascpete

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Posted Reply with quote  #16 
Ekierk,
Sealing the cut ends with wax doesn't stop mold growth in storage. Keeping the cutting dry and cool prevents mold growth. Sealing prevents dessication and dieback of the cutting, and also aids in rooting, to stop or slow down inoculation (molding and rot) of the cut end.

If your beeswax melts below 140 deg F. then there should not be any problems with its use on the cuttings (over 140 deg F. may cause tissue damage of the cutting).

I store my cuttings in 1 gallon ziplock bags with 1-2 tablespoons of dry shredded long fibered sphagnum peat moss (to help prevent mold growth and to absorb excess moisture), but any "desiccant" should work. I have year old waxed and unwaxed stored cuttings, the waxed are still as plump as when they were cut from the trees.
Good luck.
gabeE2407

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Posted Reply with quote  #17 
For sealing cuttings and also when pruning, I have been using diluted gel medium (I normally use it
for artwork; it has an AP seal and conforms to ASTM D 4236). Gel medium (matte or gloss) is
easy to use and is milky white, with a mayonnaise-like consistency; it dries to a hard and clear film
and seems to work well. An excellent binder, when mixed with fine sawdust, it might also be useful
for grafting. It is sold at art supply stores.
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