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Beginner to Figs

Hello
I recently became interested in growing figs both in pots and potentially in my yard in Pittsburgh Pennsylvania. I've done a lot of research but admittedly have a LOT to learn. Knowing nothing about growing figs from cuttings I recently (in September) bought 9 cuttings online from various locations. I put 4 in 4" pots with a sandy dirt mix after applying rooting hormone and created makeshift greenhouses on each pot. I then found through my research that late winter is the best time to try to root figs from cuttings because the plant will soon come out of dormancy. So the remaining 5 cuttings I've purchased I wrapped in damp news paper and put in a ziplock and am storing them in the fridge. I am looking for ANY advice from some of you experts on how to 1.) maintain my cuttings over the winter that are ready in pots, and 2.) how to maintain my cuttings in the fridge until it is a safe time to plant them in pots. (I did disinfect them in attempt to prevent mold or disease). The reason why I have 9 cuttings is because I wouldn't be surprised if some of them fail so if half survive I'll still be happy. Any advise would be greatly appreciated because although I did research I still feel lost.

Hi, PitttsburghPisano: Welcome! I recently too (also in Sept) started buying cuttings. I actually bought a few trees in 4" pots as well. im sure some of the pros will chime in soon but u can also search this topic here on the forum. Lots of great posts! You'll enjoy this forum. Enjoy!

Welcome to the forum!

Advise #1: take the cuttings OUT of the damp newspaper asap.
Wash them and make sure they are dry. Seal the ends with some paraffin (any candle will do) and wrap in Saran Wrap. Put them then in a ziplock plastic bag and keep in a veggie drawer in your fridge until you want to use them.
The cuttings have enough moisture in them already and do not require any damp paper unless you want to root them in a warm place.

Good luck!

Great. Thank you for the help!

Hi Greenfig, this might sound stupid, but i really want to confirm, do we need to seal only the top of the cutting or both end? does cutting take nutrition from the end of the cutting?
My first batch of 6 cutting all end up with mold, im now trying on second batch and so far can see two have tiny root. but i didnt seal the end of the cutting yet.

Pisano....Welcome...

All the information that you need has already been posted on this forum.  When I joined, years ago, I also knew very little about growing figs, so I read through all the past-postings.  It takes a few weeks, but you'll get the much needed answers to all of your questions, and a better idea of what lies ahead.  Growing figs in the Pittsburgh climate zone will be a challenge.  I would concentrate my research on the methods that can be used to overwinter your trees, either planted into containers or for grounded trees.  Growing fig trees is the easy part.  Keeping them alive from season-to-season, not so much.  But, it can be done, and you'll do it too, just like most of us do who also live in cooler climates.  I have found that growing trees in very large, 18-gallon containers and then overwintering them in a cool, storage shed works for me.  Many fig growers store their fig trees in a cool garage.

If I may offer a suggestion....Order/buy yourself a fig tree that is old enough to bear figs for the 2016 season. Have it shipped around the end of March-'16, and grow it throughout the coming season planted into a 5 gallon bucket.  You will learn how to water, fertilize, and keep it alive.  Between all your new knowledge you'll get from the forum postings, and information from forum members, you'll most likely, be eating some figs off your tree(s) by the end of next summer.  Cuttings are great, but you'll be waiting 3 + years for figs to eat.  As an alternative, you can also order some tissue-cultured fig trees from Wellspring Gardens/Florida (the trees are tiny, cheap, but grow very quickly into fig bearing trees within two seasons).  Wellspring offers many excellent varieties.  I bought (April-'14) Olympian figs from Wellspring Gdns, and the trees grew so large, that they sprouted figs (July-'14) the first season.

You have many options, but your Pittsburgh winters will be the limiting factor.   Also, try to choose and grow varieties that will ripen figs in your short, cool, growing season.  Try: "Chicago Hardy"/"Bensonhurst Purple"...it's fairly hardy, bears excellent-tasting figs, and it's easy to find. 

Good luck with your figgy endeavors.

Frank

Welcome PghPisano!
If growing in pots you need a safe place to store them. Ideally temp in winter for storage should be roughly 32-40 degrees. Unheated garages or coal cellars can work. Frank's advice on buying a tree or 2 to get started on is a great idea, while you get experience with cuttings.
There are quite a few of us here in W. PA growing figs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BronxFigs
Pisano....Welcome...

All the information that you need has already been posted on this forum.  When I joined, years ago, I also knew very little about growing figs, so I read through all the past-postings.  It takes a few weeks, but you'll get the much needed answers to all of your questions, and a better idea of what lies ahead.  Growing figs in the Pittsburgh climate zone will be a challenge.  I would concentrate my research on the methods that can be used to overwinter your trees, either planted into containers or for grounded trees.  Growing fig trees is the easy part.  Keeping them alive from season-to-season, not so much.  But, it can be done, and you'll do it too, just like most of us do who also live in cooler climates.  I have found that growing trees in very large, 18-gallon containers and then overwintering them in a cool, storage shed works for me.  Many fig growers store their fig trees in a cool garage.

If I may offer a suggestion....Order/buy yourself a fig tree that is old enough to bear figs for the 2016 season. Have it shipped around the end of March-'16, and grow it throughout the coming season planted into a 5 gallon bucket.  You will learn how to water, fertilize, and keep it alive.  Between all your new knowledge you'll get from the forum postings, and information from forum members, you'll most likely, be eating some figs off your tree(s) by the end of next summer.  Cuttings are great, but you'll be waiting 3 + years for figs to eat.  As an alternative, you can also order some tissue-cultured fig trees from Wellspring Gardens/Florida (the trees are tiny, cheap, but grow very quickly into fig bearing trees within two seasons).  Wellspring offers many excellent varieties.  I bought (April-'14) Olympian figs from Wellspring Gdns, and the trees grew so large, that they sprouted figs (July-'14) the first season.

You have many options, but your Pittsburgh winters will be the limiting factor.   Also, try to choose and grow varieties that will ripen figs in your short, cool, growing season.  Try: "Chicago Hardy"/"Bensonhurst Purple"...it's fairly hardy, bears excellent-tasting figs, and it's easy to find. 

Good luck with your figgy endeavors.

Frank




Such valuable advice/information, Frank. Thank you!!

I literally noticed the introduction thread saying to read over old posts before posting a new one because many questions were already answered, minutes after I posted mine. So I apologize. Anyway THANKS for the advice everyone! And I will buy an established fig. Great idea

Welcome to the forum!

Read this page all the way through to get the principles down,

http://figs4fun.com/basics_Rooting.html

then scroll up to the "New Alternative Technique" and click on that.  When you root figs keep the temp between 72 or so to 83 or so.  It seems to work best for me with a pinch of peat moss at the top and some temperature variation between day and night.  You can use any plastic container that you can put holes in at the bottom for good drainage.  You've been given good advice about getting rid of the wet paper.

Best of luck.

Welcome!  Good advice all around, nothing more to add. 

Welcome Pisano, need not apologize , yes there is a lot information on previous posts and it helps to read them but I think sometime it's good to bring up an old subject it brings out new suggestions and experiences from new members and it also helps get new members involved.

  • DaveL
  • · Edited

Pittsburgh Pisano, welcome to the forum. I agree with Mario 100%. Please don't hesitate to get involved and ask questions, someone will be quick to point you in the right direction.

Quote:
Originally Posted by monsterchew
Hi Greenfig, this might sound stupid, but i really want to confirm, do we need to seal only the top of the cutting or both end? does cutting take nutrition from the end of the cutting?
My first batch of 6 cutting all end up with mold, im now trying on second batch and so far can see two have tiny root. but i didnt seal the end of the cutting yet.


I usually seal both ends. The roots will punch through when the time comes, do not worry about this. The candle wax keeps the moisture locked in and you can store the dry cuttings (wrapped) for months and years in a fridge.

Reading through older threads can be very educational. These same threads are just filled with all kinds of information, links, and photos regarding the growing of figs.  However, researching and reading takes time.  Quite often, one needs some quick answers.  DO NOT hesitate to ask!  That's what this forum is about, and why it was "invented".  Forum members will always jump in and give you the answers you need, quickly.

Seek and ye shall find, ask and you shall receive.

Frank

Hey Pisano,

I'm in Pittsburgh (Beechview) and I have a small spare tree I'd be happy to give you. It is a mystery variety I got from my neighbor. Before I got it, it went many winters entirely uncovered and it always came back so it is a good hardy variety for Pittsburgh. If you are interested, just pm me here or give me an email at tobul at pitt dot edu.

Aaron 

Welcome!  Excellent advice by others. 

I agree with the advice above to take stored cuttings out of the damp newspaper.  Dip them in a solution of 10 parts water to 1 part bleach and let them air dry then wrap them tightly in Saran wrap.  Waxing both ends can't hurt.  As for the ones that are currently growing I have found out from personal experience that the number one killer of my newly rooted cuttings was over watering.  In almost every instance for me when a cutting started to root and then later died I would find that the buried part of the cutting had rotted.  Best of luck.

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