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Best Brebas for the Northeast (and other cold climates)?

Was planning on training in ground figs for production of breba figs using a modified step over espalier.  Just ran across this good thread when I did a search for good breba varieties.  Thank you guys.  Any reason this wouldn't work?  Hopefully it will result in a good crop of figs as well as giving lots of 2nd year whips for air layering to share/expand good varieties.
Modified Step-Over Espalier.png 


Tanks Greag that was great!!!! I'm contemplating doing a step over in CT zone 6a next year, how tick is the mulch over the wood do you cover the mulch with anything? How high is your main branch off the ground and why?? I have multiple different figs from northern Abbruzzo I would be glad to ship you cuttings for shipping cost if you're interested

Quote:
Originally Posted by Herman2
Both Plants were Winter protected in 2013,Winter.
Kathleen Black does not produces Breba crop,in my climate,however it had,like a couple of Breba in some years.
I am sure the Breba figlets die from frost during Winter,because fig is in ground.

I have a in ground noire de caromb(I think they are the same or simular to KB) and it produces a lot of Breba's here in the UK, white marseilles also produces well, desert king is hands down my best variety it always seems to give me good tasting figs even with heavy rain. My potted Lougue d'Aout
Was super nice this year and very early for my climate.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mario_1
Tanks Greag that was great!!!! I'm contemplating doing a step over in CT zone 6a next year, how tick is the mulch over the wood do you cover the mulch with anything? How high is your main branch off the ground and why?? I have multiple different figs from northern Abbruzzo I would be glad to ship you cuttings for shipping cost if you're interested


Hi Mario, this will be my first year trying this.  I'm following the general advice given for step over espaliers with just the modification for bending down the one year whips.  I'm trying to grow the horizontals as close to the ground as possible without touching.  In practice I'm staying within about 6 inches to avoid breakage when I bend.  Some people cover the mulch with plastic to help keep it dry.  I may do that, but I haven't gotten to it yet.  Previous figs that I've covered in just 4 inches of woodchips have been fine, but perhaps I've gotten lucky with avoiding rot and voles.  Pete likes to use pine shavings.  I make a lot of agricultural charcoal (biochar) and I'm starting to experiment with covering with that.  It's as insulative as Styrofoam, drains really well and doesn't promote rot.  Not sure if the voles will like digging through it or not.  PM sent, thank you.

Hi GregMartin,
As you have a short season as I do, it is my belief that you should use 2 yo wood and cut 3 yo wood.
If you've got 2 espaliers, try one with 1/2 yo and one with 2/3 yo.
The reason is that some stems will emerge later and won't produce brebas the very next year.
At least, it is my experience here.
You would then probably want to shift the year of production for one arm of the espalier.
It might be that I just don't have the right strains for brebas production.
I bought "Noire de Caromb" this year... I'll see if I get brebas next year, but I'm not holding my breath. In my mind, I'll get them the year after.
Next year, the tree will build and expand its root system and adapt to my locales. But I might be surprise ... Who knows !

Thank you.  I've added your thoughts on this to my notes.  If I have issues with fruit set on any cultivars I'll give this a try.  Much appreciated.

Greg, sounds like you have done your homework.  As with anything you need to experiment and see what suits your environment best.

I tried a few trees this way this year by planting the trees sideways and bending over to 1" above ground level.  The trees didn't like it.  They went from robust growers to very little growth and no figs at all.   To top it off the voles (or rabbits) started nibbling on the buds this past week.

The Japanese method where the cordon arms are 2' above ground may be better this way the new growth is out of reach of rodents.  But this makes winter protection more of a challenge.

To get the proper growth it looks a tree needs to be trained in espalier form early on.

Hi Pino, although I'd like to be at the end point already, the experimenting is a very great part of the fun.  The nibbling rodents definitely are not.  I wonder if a bed of crushed rock permanently surrounding the horizontals might keep those chewers away while keeping the trunks dry enough not to send down additional roots.  Lots of things to experiment with.

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