Figgary, I make a mix similar to this, I don't add feather meal though, so far I am happy with it.  Feather meal can take awhile to break down and is an excellent slow release form of nitrogen, if I recall usually they say about 1-5 months for it to break down.

Thanks Chivas. I have also been using fish meal, in addition to occasionally watering in kelp and fish emulsion. I pot up with 50-50 organic potting soil and aged compost, with rock phosphate and oyster shell lime. My figs look really healthy.  

Does anyone use S.T.E.M.? I have some extra if anyone wants to try it. I use it on citrus. I haven't tried it on figs. It really makes a difference on citrus.

Bob, Shoot if had seen it say not for container use, I'd probably not have tried it. I like the N-P-K 10-16-10. It surely hasn't hurt my plants. I'm having a great year.
Who knows, I've also been using MG and a fish and seaweed fertilizer.

What rock phosphate do you use?  I have just tried calphose this year and spanish river carbonatite.  The calphos I have is granular but you can also buy the standard which is a powder and will breakdown faster, calphos will take several months before it starts to break down I am told, the carbonatite I think takes around a month from what I have been told.  

These are both soft rock phosphates will from what I have been told and read breakdown quicker than the hard rock phosphates but still last 3-5 years in the soil.

I also made a mix that steve solomon made in his book, feather meal, seedmeal, fish meal, kelp meal, soft rock phosphate, potasium sulfate and I use carbonatite instead of azomite since it seems to have most of the micros that azomite has.  It seems to work well for leafy vegetables and potatoes so far and even tomatoes and peppers but garlic I needed extra nitrogen and you have to keep applying it as a side dress.  But I think if I use my blood meal and bone meal pre plant top dress this will make a great fertilizer, usually I just add blood and bone meal and 1/4 of compost sheep manure and I usually only get a couple of roma tomatoes with blossom end rot when it gets to 40 degrees in the hoophouse so I think the bone meal is adding more calicum than I previously thought.

Actually Chivas, I started using Cal Phos this year also. I couldn't find just rock phosphate anymore. I have a lot of compost that I make from horse manure and waste from the henhouse which I topdress everything with, so it seems there are always nutrients breaking down and feeding when I water. I like to use cottonseed meal on my tomatoes as well.

I am using flax seed meal, I think the nitrogen is lower than cotton seed meal but it also isnt quiet as acidic.  Have you tried using lactobacillus on compost?  I just started making this, this year so make fish fertilizer and I am starting to think that it is helping break down the organic fertilizer quicker than if I hadn't added it, I am just adding 2 tablespoons to a gallon of water (left to sit to get rid of the chlorine) and then add my fish fertilizer, leave it sit over night then water, but I am also using it when I foliar feed with fish fertilizer, seemed to help and is helping kill mildew on the roses as well.  From what I was reading and seeing, it should help break down the compost quicker than if left on it's on as the bacteria go nuts on it and bring it up to temperature quicker with all their decomposition.  Not sure if this is the best route to go or not but I figured I would bring it up as it seemed to be helping with my blood meal releasing somewhat faster, not sure about the bone meal yet though, maybe it's all in my head but at least I can make my fish fertilizer for a quarter of the price as buying it.

Sorry if I went too far off topic.

Hungry jack and schapin, have you used nutricoat outdoors? I looked at it last year and I'm no expert, but the instructions and discription sounded like it was ment for growing in greenhouses. It seemed like the soil tempt needed to be pretty warm to release and I wasn't sure if my plants would get any fertilizer in the spring months, but I like that it has micro nutrients.

Ah.  Well I am an orchid grower so much happens in a greenhouse.  I use Nutricote because I normally have it around in 25 lb bags.  You could well be right about the spring although those in pots warm up pretty quickly.  I need to find out what John puts in the water at our greenhouse because my cuttings are growing like weeds and look great.  It's been interesting being with a commercial nursery because I am learning so much about keeping plant looking great but also have strong root systems. 

These products are marketed to the greenhouse industry,
as they have considerably higher cost per pound for NPK
than what a farmer would pay for NPK for field use.
Greenhouse scenario it save labor to only have to apply fertilizer once
before the plant is ready to leave the greenhouse.

Some greenhouses are all one type of plant,
in that scenario, they would probably fertigate instead of using controlled release.
Most greenhouses have dozens or hundreds of different species of plants,
all with different fertilizer needs,  so  you apply the controlled release specific
for each plant, and then just irrigate with plain water.  Everything gets feed they
way it specifically needs this way.

In the early spring use Osmocote outdoors,  it release more fert in colder temps,
when warmer temps arrive  or for heated greenhouse use, Nutricote.

For my figs, I use controlled release as a backup and continuous feed.
At certain times of the year, I add liquid fertilizer as well.

Micronutrients are important,
you should also look at a product like Cal-Mag for use during the season
and especially during fruiting.

Sorry, I'm late responding! Thanks hungry jack and schapin. Hungry jack when do you add the nutricoat in summer? The last few years I have been buying osmocote. I have to check, but i think I bought te one that's lasts longer 4-5 month. I do use a liquid about once a week then stop mid July. I was looking at the nutricoat since it has a 10-10-10 with micro nutrients. I'll see if I can find the cal-mag.