In reference to OttawanZ5's query, I would opine that healthy green growth should be left on the cutting because the leaves with their chlorophyll serve to capture light energy and transfer it to the fig. If the leaves are removed, the energy stored in the cutting that was used in the production of those leaves is lost. If no roots emerge, then the leaves will wither in time, due to lack of water and other nutrients. (Someone such as Al, from the Fig and Garden Forum, probably has a more precise and technical explanation of what occurs.) Emerging small figs on the cutting should be removed, since their growth will result in a net loss of energy to the cutting and little, if any, potential gain. The bottom line is, that in order to thrive, the cutting will need both leaves and roots. It seems sensible to try to preserve the leaves long enough in order for the roots to emerge. Empirically, I notice with my cuttings, that the leaves have to be kept in a medium that is sufficiently moist, preferably surrounded with humid air, in order to prevent the leaves withering prior to root growth. My cuttings don't seem to do as well if they are in an area that is dehumidified (with an air conditioning system). The outside air on our back deck (open to the air, but with a roof overhead) is much more humid. The temperature varies a good deal (from the upper 40's F to over 80 F), but seems to be the best environment for me to root the cuttings with minimal intervention. As the season has progressed in Zone 8B Texas, there is much less variation in temperature, and the range is more conducive to rooting and active growth of the cuttings. To control the humidity of the cuttings indoors, a covering of some sort is helpful, such as plastic hairnets over the cups. Of course, in such an environment, mold is always a concern. With my cuttings exposed to the open air, even with very high humidity, I don't seem to have much problem with mold.

I'm feeling good (right now) about my four Black Madeira grown from one UC Davis cutting. They are not out of the woods yet and do seem to struggle more than most (Col de Dame was extra enthusiastic). I liked your suggestion about over fertilization of your BM, Jon and it seemed to help these to give them more than usual. Barnisotte on the other hand has been even tougher.

No, just water thoroughly, let stand an hour or so, then rewater with 1/2 strength (or less) Miracle-Gro. Less strength, more often is good. Sometimes you won't see much results this season, but it will explode next. Sometimes they grow like weeds this season.

For what it's worth, I phoned Howard Garrison at UCD last week and he made a suggestion that sounded logical to my inexperienced brain. He said it can sometimes be a good idea to apply bottom heat to cuttings while the top end sticks up into much cooler air; the idea being that by cooling the top of the cutting it will retard leaf growth, giving the heated bottom enough time to establish roots. Has anybody else tried this? If so, what kind of results did you get?

 Take a look at http://www.hydro-gardens.com they have propagation mats, a little more safe. I have used one of theirs for 8 years and it is still in good shape. Just looking they have a 22 X 14 for 42.95 plus the thermostatic control. Good luck!

Has anyone sourced out one w/o FMV? Seems like everyone has the same problem. Same sources?