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California Commercial Fig Grower: Crop Conditions

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron4USA
Gina, I was referring to moisture conditions in Mediterranean and not here.
Maybe you should wear your other glasses while reading.

Just because your climate is called Mediterranean doesn't mean you are in Greek Islands or France or Spain, there is a lot of humidity after 8PM in Mediterranean.

I was merely describing humidity levels and the positive effects ...perhaps that was/is the reason that increases survival levels in Mediterranean.


Your hypothesis and subsequent comments state that higher humidity levels
in the Med are higher than California  and thus responsible for the success of trees in the Med.

AVERAGE YEARLY HUMIDITY
 Southern California  
    
67Long Beach  
71Los Angeles  
69San Diego  
71Santa Barbara  
76Santa Maria  
    
    
    
    
  

Aegean Islands

Average annual humidity
Place%
Limnos70
Milos68
Mytilini65
Naxos72
Rhodes (Rodos)66
Samos60

Crete
Annual relative humidity averages
Place%
Chania65
Heraklion63
Ierapetra66
Rethymno65
Sitia66
Tympaki64

Peloponnese

Average daily humidity
Place%
Astros62
Kalamata68
Kythira66
Methoni73
Pyrgela67
Tripoli63
Velo64



So, once again, a review of actual facts, weather data,
shows Aaron's hypothesis to be incorrect.

Average humidity in Southern CA is above 70%
Average humidity in Greek Islands is below 70%

So its not moss or lichens
or humidity levels either,
or ever present gravity that makes water drip down tree trunks and plastic chairs,

maybe the Greek God's have their hands involved.



or could be something simple as limestone.

OMG, seriously, you have your own party and enjoy it. 
I'm out of here!

If either of you start biting one another we'll transfer you to a soccer team!

well, I've seen him bite dirty Squid!

Quote:
Originally Posted by HarveyC
Okay, let's keep comments constructive here, please.


Thanks for doing that Harvey,

Quote:
Originally Posted by HarveyC
In a video posted last year it showed that Pons planted a fig tree in a very deep hole, perhaps 5' deep and in diameter.  He watered it to help it become established and then gradually filled in the hole, resulting in a tree with a very deep root system that did not require irrigation.  With such a large reservoir from which to draw upon during the growing season I am not surprised that a mature tree established in this manner does not require irrigation.


One thing Montserrat Pons described during our visit (April 2010) is that the bottom of the deep hole is just above a damp clay layer, which along with the large reservoir, aids in making it possible to dry farm the fig trees (once they are established).

Paul, we need to schedule a trip to attend the fig festival in Mallorca!  How about 2015?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron4USA
well, I've seen him bite dirty Squid!


Skin of a Humboldt squid caught in a remote area in the
Sea of Cortez,
is far cleaner than the skin of a fig harvested from the smog and polluted air of LA.

As a Greek, you should have a deep appreciation of Cephalopods.

:-)

No biting on my part,
just pointing out facts,
which might be painful for some to realize,
and could feel like a bite to them.


Harvey,
Thanks for this very interesting thread.
I doubt I can use any of the practices involved as every single one of my 300+ fig trees is in a darn pot.
If I let them go without water for even a short period they drop leaves and figs and don't seem to prosper at all.

Part of this is obviously pot size as I'm asking my trees to grow very large in size compared to their root mass.

I ordered a brix meter tonight as I want to see what my sugar levels are like. I even paid extra postage as I waited too long to order and if the meter doesn't get here ASAP I'll miss getting a reading on my Florea brebas which will be ripe starting tomorrow.

I'm counting on the critters not yet being aware there are figs to steal as my defenses are not yet in place.
I'll be setting an electric fence and a number of scare devices this weekend.

Last year I was pretty successful keeping the figs for myself but this year I have a much bigger crop. A bigger crop means far more attention. I can almost hear the many different species I have to worry about licking their chops.

OK Jack!
Well, I don't think this extra conversing benefits this thread nor is fair to Harvey, because, initially I was drawn to the interesting nature of his post. But you, as usual, just walk into it with your messy paws and pollute everything. Must be the Salmonella in your system from biting the raw squid ( I can't believe I even remembered that disgusting picture). Anyway... Just don't hurt people out there when you drive your truck.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron4USA
OK Jack!
Well, I don't think this extra conversing benefits this thread nor is fair to Harvey, because, initially I was drawn to the interesting nature of his post. But you, as usual, just walk into it with your messy paws and pollute everything. Must be the Salmonella in your system from biting the raw squid ( I can't believe I even remembered that disgusting picture). Anyway... Just don't hurt people out there when you drive your truck.


Dude, the only one spewing trash and insults is YOU.

You're not man enough to admit your wrong,
and attack me and another member when your mistakes are pointed out to you.

You're generally a very misinformed individual, with limited experience and knowledge,
but feel the need to provide expert commentary on subject you have no expertise or even
basic knowledge of.

Correcting false information is not polluting, its educating,
the pollution in this thread comes from YOUR misinformation and childish attitude in this conversation.

I see you continue with your misinformed opinions and comments,
so I will correct once again.
Squid does not have Salmonella bacteria, chicken carries that disease,
raw squid is eaten by hundreds of millions of people in this world.

I also drive a BOAT, not a truck, they are different,
one is used on the road and has wheels,
the other has no wheels and operates on the water.
My boat also costs more than your house, so save any additional
snide ignorant comments you are preparing to make.

Still batting 100% there dude,
you are consistently wrong with your comments and ASSumptions.
Do us a favor, go get lost in your fig forest for a while,  thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hungryjack

Quote:
Originally Posted by fignutty

Using this method results in fruit with mostly 20-34 brix. .


Do you know the height of the water table on your property ?

What are you getting 34 brix from ?




I don't have a water table. It's a very well drained clay loam that is moderately droughty. I'd estimate total water holding capacity in the root zone of fruit trees at 6 inches maybe more depending on rooting depth. I apply about 7 inches to leach salts and rewet the soil profile in late October.

The easiest fruit to get 28-34 brix is sweet cherries. By the way refractometer scale only reads to 32 but can estimate to 34. Nectarine and pluots are 20-32 brix depending on degree of water deficit.

Usually a brix above about 30 indicates excessive water deficits. Fruit flavor can be greatly enhanced below 30 brix but may take on off flavors above 30. The refractometer is a great tool to monitior water deficit. Below 18 is too much water. Mid 20s is a great place for yield and eating quality, above 30 depending on the fruit may be too dry.

The refractometer is hard to use on figs because they can be too dry to express any liquid. My tongue tells me the good ones are 25+ brix, many probably 34+.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HarveyC
Paul, we need to schedule a trip to attend the fig festival in Mallorca!  How about 2015?


Sounds amazing Harvey!


Seriously, Jack and Aaron, we might need to put you two in a corner of another room to duke it out. This stuff really doesn't add to the topic of conversation. Yes, we all have our opinions but this has gone beyond that.

I agree, for the sake of the rest of the community, would you two keep your personal animosity to yourselves. This is not the place for swapping insults.

This reminds me of the cultural practice of some farmers of what is termed "deficit irrigation".  This is primarily done to conserve water but there are benefits observed as well.  I have no personal experience with it but have scanned through many articles about it over the years (mostly in the same paper as post #1).  I may not be entirely correct in what I say here since it's not something I've used or paid very close attention to. Growers use "pressure bombs" (no explosives involved!) where leaf samples are taken and vacuum pressure is used to extract water from these leaves and the amount of vacuum needed is measured.  There are established figures for all of this to determine how much stress the tree is under.  I believe by around the end of June when almonds are already sized up pretty well the orchards will be given less water than they need to grow and the stress is closely monitored so as to not kill the tree.  By harvest time some of these orchards are dropping leaves even though it's only August and still the "growing season".  I'd think some similar practice could also be useful for commercial fig growers though, in reality, it doesn't really seem that commercial growers are trying to pick fruit at prime ripeness anyways since they don't transport well in this condition.

Another device used by large commercial growers is a neutron probe which makes very accurate measurements of soil moisture.  Growers usually hire a service to perform periodic measurements although I'm pretty sure very large growers have their own specially-trained staff that do this (I know of at least two growers in California with over 10,000 acres of almonds).

Steve, I believe careful moisture levels can even be maintained in pot culture but would probably require different watering methods.  For instance, if water is simply applied to the top of a pot (as I do for my younger potted trees), it's going to take a fairly large amount (perhaps 1/3 of pot volume) to moisten the entire area of soil since potting mixes typically use media with a high water-holding capacity (if sand was used instead, less water would be needed but then very frequent watering would be needed).  Some growers use sub-surface drip irrigation lines and I believe people growing in pots could also apply drip emitters in different areas of the pot in the soil so that moisture was more uniform and then moisture could be closely monitored and watering scheduled modified.

I don't believe any of this is really practical for any of us unless we're just really devoted to experimentation, etc.  I took quite a few soil science courses and one irrigation engineering course in college (many years ago!) and I believe that experience probably has increased my interest in this topic more than for most folks.

Oh...one more thing: some growers who use sub-surface drip irrigation also inject air into their lines so that soils are being moistened and aerated at the same time.  Some results have been very impressive.  This requires a very large air compressor!  This would not be very hard to do on a small scale, I believe.

Harvey:

Thanks for getting the discussion back to horticulture!!

There is a new device being patented by Cornell that directly measures the water status of a tree and can be read and recorded in real time. The device is inserted into the trees trunk. It's similar to tire pressure monitors on modern cars. It could be used to control drip irrigation to maintain any desired level of water deficit.

Deficit irrigation has long been practiced in drought tolerant field crops like sorghum and cotton. There's no reason it can't be used in fruit crops where desired. It is very effective for nectarine, pluot, apricot, and grapes if one desires sweeter and more flavorful fruit.

I think the primary factor in play is that a water deficit in the plant causes it to adjust osmotic potential upwards in order to continue drawing water from the soil. This increases sugars in the fruit and reduces water.

I'm not sure how useful it would be in figs. For me it should help varieties like BT that are usually too watery. There is no subsitute for heat and sunshine, maybe just an aid.

Thank you for your thoughts about how to water figs in pots. I need to think more about self watering containers and such.

Quote:
Deficit irrigation has long been practiced in drought tolerant field crops like sorghum and cotton.


Come to think of it, I practice this when I grow tomatoes. (No summer rains, and little frost here) I plant very early and water well to get the plants established, then as little as possible later in the season to intensify the flavor - sometimes not for weeks at a time. I water when the plants show obvious stress. I also keep them well mulched. The fruits are exceptionally sweet and flavorful when grown this way. When I do water, I have soaker hoses run beneath the mulch.

With figs trees having in mind; would water Deficit harm the tree in long term,(through dormancy and after) like stunting it's growth or increasing die backs or even decrease fruit production? Or with every spring, with hope of some rain, the tree will be restored.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gina
Quote:
Deficit irrigation has long been practiced in drought tolerant field crops like sorghum and cotton.


Come to think of it, I practice this when I grow tomatoes. (No summer rains, and little frost here) I plant very early and water well to get the plants established, then as little as possible later in the season to intensify the flavor - sometimes not for weeks at a time. I water when the plants show obvious stress. I also keep them well mulched. The fruits are exceptionally sweet and flavorful when grown this way. When I do water, I have soaker hoses run beneath the mulch.


Great comments!! There are smaller growers in CA catching on to deficit irrigation in many crops. Tomatoes are a great example. And tomatoes have something in common with nectarine, plums, pluots, and grapes; they are all fuzz free and smooth skinned. Maybe the lack of fuzz increases water loss thru the skin thereby increasing sugars. I haven't been as successful increasing brix of peach as much as nectarines, a fuzzless peach.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron4USA
With figs trees having in mind; would water Deficit harm the tree in long term,(through dormancy and after) like stunting it's growth or increasing die backs or even decrease fruit production? Or with every spring, with hope of some rain, the tree will be restored.


Figs are native to climates where it doesn't rain all summer, just like LA and most of CA. It's just a matter of how much water the soil holds from winter rains. If the soil is poor, rains lacking, or summer too long, deficit irrigation is the means to bridge the gap.

Think of all the figs in LA with no water all summer. Some must be that way. They survive fine if well established on deep soil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hungryjack
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron4USA


because in Mediterranean, the moisture touches any surface and runs down,

example: if you had some plastic patio furniture on the veranda at summer time,
the sweat like water will run down and create pool of water on the floor.  


Good to know that gravity exists in the Mediterranean.



ROTFL... I was thinking the same thing...

OK, by chance I found a great example of what type of moss typically grown on fig trees in Mediterranean...
This picture is of JH Adriatic mother tree...I am using just for an example...

JH Adriatic Origina Mother Tree.jpg 


Those are leaves Aaron!?!? I know you are not talking about those lichens again, because that would be really awkward...

I shared this video some time ago but it seems relevant, I have no idea how much the methods would help since my problem is usually too much water ;)




no, I just felt I didn't show the correct picture when I was talking about air Moisture and the effects on surface growth...it's just curiosity ... nothing wrong with continuous learning...

great video.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fignutty

.

The easiest fruit to get 28-34 brix is sweet cherries. By the way refractometer scale only reads to 32 but can estimate to 34. Nectarine and pluots are 20-32 brix depending on degree of water deficit.

Usually a brix above about 30 indicates excessive water deficits. Fruit flavor can be greatly enhanced below 30 brix but may take on off flavors above 30. The refractometer is a great tool to monitior water deficit. Below 18 is too much water. Mid 20s is a great place for yield and eating quality, above 30 depending on the fruit may be too dry.

The refractometer is hard to use on figs because they can be too dry to express any liquid. My tongue tells me the good ones are 25+ brix, many probably 34+.


30+ brix is always impressive in fruits,
with the right acid ratio, it becomes world class.

Are you supplementing calcium before harvest ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron4USA
OK, by chance I found a great example of what type of moss typically grown on fig trees in Mediterranean...
This picture is of JH Adriatic mother tree...I am using just for an example...

JH Adriatic Origina Mother Tree.jpg 



Those are LICHENS  not  Moss.

How about you go to Google,
type in the word  MOSS  then do a picture search.
Then do another search with the work LICHEN.

There is no reading involved, just look at the pictures,
even a 5 year old should be able to tell the difference between the two,
if you are having problems discerning the difference,
there is no shame in asking one of your children to explain the difference to you.

 

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