I was trying to root dozens of cuttings from two varieties. One seems to easier to root, the other one have only two cuttings have lesser roots showing after 3 weeks.

Now, I am wondering if I can graft some previously stored scion/nodes from the later variety to a well rooted of the first variety currently with no leaf? Are there some extra cares need to be taken other than a normal grafting? I did have success on rooting grafted mulberry scion/cutting combos before.

I mean put the rooted cutting in a pot as the rootstock of course. Won't the root supply some energy for the union callus tissue to heal and the grafted bud to break dormant?

I would think it would have little energy to support a graft. It would be much better to graft unto an established plant. I guess success would depend on how established the rootstock is. When grafting hard to graft trees the rootstocks are leafed out at the time, such as peaches. I don't know about figs? With apples and pears you can do grafting before leaf out, as they tend to take easier. Peaches the host plant, the rootstock needs to be growing to graft unto it. It needs to be warm too, around 80F is perfect for peaches.

Best bet to go to a nursery and buy the cheapest fig tree you can find. Bring it indoors to a very warm room. Wake it up and do your grafting. I use a geated greenhouse. I have some trees that have never went dormant.

I agree with figpig , that's excatly what I'm gonna do. You can get fig trees from garden centre for really cheap. But it's always good to experiment if you have the time and patience. Happy growing .

Thanks for all the advices, it's really great to have found this wonderful site. I have tried two grafts last night, one splint graft, one whip&tongue. Just for experimenting.

During the grafting, I was surprised to find that one of my "sucessfully rooted" cuttings have darkened cambium layer all through the cutting's length, even though the roots look very lush. What would be the likely cause for that? It was a bottom part of one year growth, rooting hormone treated, 10 days in bag with moist paper towels followed by 7 days in moist 50-50 coir/perlite bag. no bud break, no signs of rot or mold on the surface.