Axier --- Thanks for the info.

Kyle, I had heard that the latex was an issue. I didn't have one, but I did these when they were not actively growing (they had leaves but were not pushing much sap) which probably decreased the latex issue.

Tremendous thread Jon.  To me the simplest seems to be the wedge graft which is called a cleft graft in Basses video?  It looks like it really "locks" the scion in.  And it appears that all further growth of that branch will be the new variety.  In chip budding arent you just getting one side branch to become the new variety and the  part further up stays what the rootstock is?  For me it seems that the chip budding wouldn't give me enough of the new variety since only a side shoot of new variety would be established. 

Ed ,
Once the t-bud or chip bud heals , you cut back to it to get it to grow and become the new top .
Kerry

Thanks Kerry but that seems like such a waste of time.  Also the wedge graft looks a lot easier to do and seems more secure.  Great thread!

I must have missed this thread when it was first posted. Great thread and great pictures Jon! Seeing it done really does make all the difference when it comes to something like this. Thank you for this great thread Jon.

I've been doing some research on grafting lately. I have (had) a pear tree that was badly damaged during our last big ice storm. There was only about 3' of the tree/stump that was still standing after a huge maple tree branch fell on it. During the clean-up, after the ice storm, it was cut back to the ground.

Now there are a few pieces of re-growth from the rootstock. So, I'd like to practice on this with some other pear varieties. Maybe even some Asian pears or whatever really. But it would be nice to start a good variety in place of the old one.

I was looking at that video on Bass's site recently and really learned alot. I didn't realize that there are just so many different ways to do grafts. If you haven't seen the video mentioned you owe it to yourself to check it out. If you follow that same individual, who's doing the demo, around youtube a bit you'll find that he has alot of other very good vids of several other grafting methods clearly demonstrated (not as clear as Jon's pics but still pretty good material :) ).

Here's a link to one of his videos demonstrating a "rind" graft:

Ed,

Driveway is right. You remove the top of the rootstock later on.

Every grafting technique has a reason for existing. Some techniques are suitable to more than one application, and some are very specific. One of the benefits of chip budding or T-budding is the minimal use of scion, e.g. one bud. Wedge, whip, and whip and tongue, for example, generally use more scion (more buds) per graft, and thus produce fewer trees per unit of scion. When T-budding a citrus, for example, you need the top growth of the rootstock to provide energy and nutrition to the plant while your graft is healing in and getting started.

Is it the best method for figs? Don't know, but this was done as a proof of concept, so that people who have situations where it might be appropriate or useful would know that it works, and how to do it. I did some wedge grafts, at the same time.

If someone were to discover a nematode resistant fig variety, grafting of figs would almost instantly become a widely used technique, for example.

Bill, I hooked up up someone on gardenwebs fruit and orchard forum who is trading some asian pears for fig and paw paws.  Let me ask him if he wants to trade with you.  He is always looking for different fruit tree scion.  If he agrees will send you an e-mail.  P.S. I am grafting the asian pears onto a seckel pear tree.

Ed

Sounds great Ed. Thanks! 

In the way of fig cuttings, I still have a few Hardy Chicago and plenty of Italian Honey. Maybe a rooted cutting or two of other stuff from last season...

As for Pawpaw, just some wild stock that I can get plenty of. Plenty of wild seed too but not until next fall. 

Bumping this for some help.

I would like to do the T bud grafting, I have many cutting that i want to transplant. the cuttings do not have the fruit/growth buds protruding and are dormant- will this work? lower chances?

Hi Eli

Do you mean dormant cuttings from the fridge ??
For summer  'T budding' you need sap to be flowing  on scions and stock.

Francisco
Portugal

Thanks Francisco
Can the bud chips survive a 30 minute drive?
Do i have any graft options with dormant wood?

Ok, Did about 10 T grafts in 30 min. The recieving tree was droping figs wasp or not i am pissed :)
The bark at the base is about 4 inches diameter so it has good base.
The scion wood sap was a bit dry side but from scions taken from the mother tree hour before the graft .


Used the back side of electrical tape ..

Hope it works

Hello Eli

This video (in French) deals with summer T budding, is very instructive and gives ideas on how to preserve fresh -green- scions until you are ready to bud

Enjoyed this post very much. I think i'll try a graft on my Texas White Everbearing.

Eli,

The fellow on this clip is doing, I believe, what you intend to do , i.e., 'T' budding an existing fig tree with green scions.
You may use the system shown on the previous video to bring the scion green branches near the rootstock.

The key advantage is maximizing the amount of grafts you get from the scion.  If you have a 3" piece of scion with 2 nodes you can do a wedge graft and get 1 new branch out of it or T bud each node and get 2 branches.  If you want a fruit salad tree you can have that or, once the graft takes you can cut off the top of the rootstock above the graft.

Very interesting!  I really want to learn more about grafting....I need time...time...time to do more with my fig cuttings :-D