Hi,  Have noticed many people use Clonex. Would like to know whether the Gel or the powder is a better choice. Have seen some discussion about what concentrations seem to give the best results which would suggest perhaps using the powder over the gel product.

I am a newbie to fig propagation and based on my first attempt using no rooting hormones at all, there is improvement to be had  (2 of 10 cuttings have rooted and leafed out, 2 have swelling buds but no visible roots, 3 scions look good but are not showing any visible growth and 3 have molded). Also, how long should I let things go on the scions which appear healthy but to be doing nothing before I give up?

Others are more expert than I but I will take a stab at it.
I think most that are using the Clonex are using the gel, use sparingly as it MAY slightly delay leaf/bud development in leu of roots but most (not all) feel they get better root starts with it.

as long as the scion appears viable (not rotted or otherwise OBVIOUSLY dead), give it more time.  some have had them sit weeks even months before they took off.

Good luck

Powdered hormone causes rotting of the cutting. Don't know why, but enough experience says that it does.

Liquid hormones or OK, but in my experience, ineffective.

Clonex has not been a miracle, but it has increased rooting success and root quantity in my limited trials.

I like clonex in addition to scoring the bark.

Thanks everyone.  Gel it will be.

May try Clonex on some Plums which have sprouted all sorts of new sucker growth since their late winter pruning and can be ground layered.  If most fig cuttings are taken in Jan., I am guessing that it is getting late in the season for zone 7b to be rooting stuff and maybe I should wait for next year before investing in more cuttings?

I love Clonex gel and use it for just about every cutting of every plant I grow.  But make sure you remove the amount you plan to use then dip into that, never dip a plant right into the bottle.  A single plant protein can activate the entire bottle and make it worthless.  Also store it in the fridge when not in use to extend it's life.  When it goes bad it separates into two fluids and loses it's gel quality so you'll know.

Marianna...I have not yet used the powder form of clonex, but the gel type that I am using for the first time this year is making a remarkable difference in the % of successful rooted cuttings...and the ones that do root, seem to get their roots a lot sooner than previous years when I was not using any type of rooting hormone. 

if i may, hormone is not necessary for rooting fig cuttings. with some practice, rooting should not be an issue at all. the tricks to rooting figs are providing condition that cutting will root, and not watering it to death.

the reason for rot could be either they were left in wet condition too long, or the cuttings were not ideal. obtaining fresh cutitng will increase your chance of rooting. rooting and moving them into 1 gal container doesn't take all the much skills. but practice is needed. lot of time, the failure comes during initial stage while we are waiting for the roots to come out. if the cuttings are not aired and monitored for moisture in the environment, they can sit in the water for days on end and rot. also, not airing and cleaning out the mold often will lead to mold taking hold and causing further problem.

once the cutting has enough roots and moved into cup or larger container, watering becomes biggest problem. the small cuttings with new roots can't take sitting in the water too long before rotting and dying. water only when it's needed.

Thanks for all the good advice. Pretty sure my lack of success was due to too much moisture.  If a loaf of bread molds on top of the fridge then it should be no surprise that my cuttings did too. Fortunately I checked them frequently so I was able to salvage many before they molded. I now know that there are remedies for mold if caught early too.  Am psyched and ready to try again :)

Dont waste ur money use honey a natural hormone.

Also search on scoring.  Many of us scrape a small section of bark off just until green shows.  You don't want to scrape the green off.  I use 1/16th inch wide by about 1/4th to 1/2" long, 1 on each side of the cutting at the bottom and then dip the point of a plastic plant label into the clonex and paint it on the green parts.  I score less on a cutting that's less vigorous.