I was just reading Jon's post on the updated section on propagation and this came to my mind...

It has been said that it is better to collect cuttings when trees are dormant and I have been "experimenting" with that notion since some time.

But, I have found that we should not worry too much about that. Since, the last two years, I have taken cuttings of different sizes from fig trees in active growth. Some even have been in the middle of their fig production period.

To this, I did not store the cuttings in a fridge but proceeded immediately to placing them in a bag with wet paper towels.

To me, the results have been positive

In some cases, I just tasted the figs then cut the branch off and removed all leafs and placed the cutting into a bag. Two weeks later nice roots started growing.

Hope this helps anyone...

Does mold attack the active green growth more offend?
Do you notice any drawbacks to this method.?

americanfigboy:

about the same as if I collected them while dormant
no there are none...

Also, I tend to go for wood that is aged 2 years and more. Yet, I took some that was only a year and was fine.

Also, to make it clear I did not take just a few cuttings to test this out . This was done with a few kilograms/pounds worth of cuttings.

I'm curious what varieties you have used for this method and about how many?  We haven't yet had our first frost, which is unusual for this area, and I am itching to get started with cuttings.  This is encouraging.

C.J.

That is my experience, as well, on a limited basis. Cuttings from actively growing trees root easily, if the process is begun when they are freshly cut. They do not store well, however, which is often a real consideration in the taking of cuttings.

I have managed to root fig twigs (limited amounts) 365 days along the whole year!

I started several cuttings around the end of August. I cut 4 node cuttings, removed bottom leaf, trimed remaining leaves by 2/3, stuck in pots with rooting mixture and covered with a wide mouth canning jar. They are all rooted and 3 are sending out new growth.

Susan

I have been rooting cuttings since July 2009 and still rooting some now and will be throught out the winter. Preferably wood thats atleast one year old works best but new years growth works just as well with a little more TLC.

The only issue I have found with new growth is if the leaf steams are not removed completely and cuttings are put directly into soil I have found they do mold and can rot alittle easier, thats why now I try to remove the leaves about a week before I take cuttings ofcourse this is taking them from my own plants.

When Travelling or in a few cases when you take cuttings and make a run for it lol I find putting them in the fridge for a week solves that problem as the leftover leaf steams readily fall out. Again this has been my own observation after rooting over 200 cuttings in the last year.

Yes, any portion of a leaf stem still adhering to a cutting is a quick place for mold to start. If possible, remove the leaves a few days before taking the cutting, and let it fully dessicate and heal at the leaf node, and then take the cuttings.

I still say airlayering is way easier.

Even a rookie like myself  has had great success with rooting non-dormant cuttings.

Jason,
All though I agree with you but that's not always an option.

They will root with the proper humidity when kept away from the sun. 

I looked for good figs in the area all summer.  You can only taste figs when they are ripe, which means the trees are not dormant but in full growth of course.

It's sometimes a little socially ackward to ask strangers "do you care if I taste your figs" and even more ackward to come back multiple times, so when a taste test confirmed I had found a great fig, I asked for a cutting right then, mid-summer, not dormant, and in full growth.

I stripped the leaves and just planted the cuttings in good quality soil right after I got each of them this summer.

All rooted well and are growing strong.

Best wishes to all.

John
North Georgia Piedmont
Zone 7b