Hello everyone,
I've been seeing a lot of threads lately on rooting cuttings (it's that time of the year), but I haven't found a single one (even in the past as far as I could tell) that compiles everything together in one place. Threads on rooting methods are great, but they don't tell the whole story in enough detail. Hopefully this thread will alleviate a lot of problems and common questions.
So, onto the business..
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You just received cuttings & you're not sure what to do? My best advice--don't do anything yet! I cannot stress enough that you should read as much as you can on the subject first. Don't feel like you need to be in a rush to root the cuttings you just received in the mail. Your first step and a very important one is to clean the cuttings you've just received. You'll thank yourself later, but this is unbelievably important to your success. There are many ways to clean them, but usually soaking them in a bleach/water solution and lightly scrubbing them does the trick. After letting them dry, individually wrap them in plastic wrap and put them in a air tight plastic bag. Put the bag in your vegetable drawer in your fridge. Many forum members have said that they've rooted cuttings that have been in there fridge for a year!
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Pick a Rooting Method:
Your second step is to pick a method. There's a ton out there. My preferred method is the "cup" method which involves any form of a humidity dome (which creates a greenhouse affect) on top of a 16/18 oz cup. It's important to note the stages of each method. Know what's required ahead of the time and be prepared. Rooting is a delicate & exact process. You can easily kill all the cuttings you've got. Do your research! Here's the method I use: http://www.ourfigs.com/forum/figs-home/6175-my-3-cup-rooting-method
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Main Objective of Rooting Cuttings:
At this point you probably want to get started, but you must understand that there are huge differences between cuttings and young to established fig trees. Your main objective is simple... develop a strong root system as quickly as possible. The longer it takes, the lower your success rate will be, and the more things that can go wrong. If done properly, your rooting job is finished when the cutting can survive as if it were a regular plant. Usually this point is referred to when the cutting is doing well in a 1 gallon container and is ready to be up potted.
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Rooting Requirements & Important Differences:
1. Cuttings require a lot of humidity. 90-95%. Provides rooting environment & prevents the cutting/leaves from drying out. Frequent misting can help significantly.
2. Optimal rooting temperatures are roughly between 70-80 degrees. Provides 2nd rooting environment requirement.
3. Cuttings do not need large amounts of light until leaves form. I wouldn't put them in the dark, but unnecessary bright light can actually dry out the cuttings. Light does help however provide the necessary heat.
#'s 1 & 2 are huge. Anything above or below those figures drastically lowers your success rate. Heat mats, humidity domes & heat sources like the sun or warm light bulbs are recommended. Remember, our goal is to develop a strong root system as fast as possible. Optimal humidity and temperature is the best way to do that. If you don't have optimal humidity and temperature #4 (listed below) can be a much larger issue.
4. Mold kills cuttings. If the cutting isn't properly cleaned & there's a lot of moisture, mold is likely to occur. Good air flow also helps, which leads me to #'s 5 & 6.
5. Initially lightly water to help create humidity. Like I said above, too much moisture causes mold. Initially there are no roots to suck up water. There are also no leaves to give water to--water is strictly there for humidity purposes until roots/leaves form.
6. Mostly soil-less mediums must be your only option. Only when up potting from a 1 gallon should you use a heavier & more nutrient dense soil. It's important to note that some soil medias have anti-microbial properties, like coir and sphagnum moss that inhibit mold and others like perlite and peat moss, which are inert and somewhat hostile to gnats and other pests. A fine, heavy medium dries out slowly, which can prevent oxygenation of the root zone. The more oxygen at the root zone, the healthier roots you'll have. I use a combination of perlite and peat moss. 75% perlite, 25% peat moss. Also known as Pro Mix HP.
7. Rooting hormone is definitely beneficial and in my opinion necessary. You can reduce rooting time by about 2 weeks and it will produce larger caliper root initials but it can slow leaf development when applied at higher concentrations or in excessive amounts like covering large portions of the entire cutting. I use Dip N Grow rooting hormone but at the lower concentrations and only apply it to the bottom cut ends. I've never tried Clonex, but its been used successfully by other members. It also helps to score the bottom of the cutting. See this thread: http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/fig-rooting-hormone-and-none-a-comparison-6155695
8. Fertilizing! Frequent misting & constant high levels of humidity can rapidly leach out the pre-plant nutrients in most soil-less media. Without fertilizer, cuttings can become chlorotic and root development can be delayed. Which fertilizers? Most of the complete water soluble fertilizers on the market applied at 1/3 the recommended dose (or less) can provide the required nutrients for the initial stages of growth. Apply as soon as roots develop. Keep note: too high of a dosage of fertilizer can have an adverse affect and burn your roots. Keep it minimal. See this thread: http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/fertigation-will-produce-more-figs-6837609?highlight=fertigation
9. Harden off your cuttings by establishing propagation stages. During propagation, cuttings transition from a completely rootless stem to an actively growing plant. Cuttings should be managed differently as root development progresses. As cuttings develop roots, they need to be weaned off conditions for lush growth. Humidity should be reduced and light levels can be increased. During the last several days of propagation, plants that are hardened off will perform better after transplant. Providing different conditions during the propagation phases can shorten total propagation time and produce high quality, rooted transplants. See this thread: http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/stages-of-fig-cuttings-growth-6765676
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Common Pitfalls of Rooting Cuttings:
1. Be on the lookout for mold, fungus, and pests (most notably fungus gnats). High humidity, abundant moisture and high temperatures can be conducive to rapid pathogen and insect development. These all can become serious issues.
2. Over-watering.
3. Not having enough patience when up potting or destroying roots when up potting.
4. Allowing cuttings/leaves to dry out.
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Rooting Tips & Other Misc Information:
1. Don't root everything you've got at once. Do it in batches. What I mean is.. if you have 3 cuttings of Hardy Chicago don't root all 3 at the same time. Put two sealed up in the fridge. Mistakes happen, and that's why you've got backups if something goes wrong. Chances are something will and you'll learn from your mistakes in the next batch.
2. MSU rooting practices: http://www.flor.hrt.msu.edu/assets/Uploads/Sucessfullypropagatingcuttingstakesplanning.pdf
3. Make sure your cutting is the right side up! The bud should always be on top of the leaf scar. See this thread: http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/how-to-tell-if-a-cutting-is-upside-down-7230685?highlight=upside+down&pid=1285626045
4. Cutting size: There are multiple theories on what size is best, but the general consensus is that smaller cuttings in diameter root faster, and larger cuttings in diameter get you a bigger tree faster. Small cuttings dry out a lot faster. Anything above pencil size in diameter & length is recommended.
5. Single node cutting experiment: http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/single-node-cuttings-experiment-7144815?highlight=node&trail=50
I'll be keeping this post updated as I compile more information. Please be sure to correct anything & add anything
-Ross