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Containerized Fig Trees.....How Old Is Your Tree?

My trees have been in large, ca. 20 gallon containers since 2007.  I  just looked at some photos of Martin's "Hardy Chicago" that was containerized from 2003, and is now planted in-ground.  That makes dieseler's tree at least 10 years old.

I would love to know how old are your trees, and how many years have they been grown in containers?  Love to see photos of your containerized, oldest tree(s).

Thanks,
Frank

I have to admire those of you with your many large containerized trees.   I don't think I could do that.   The thing about in ground trees is...you can forget about them for weeks and even months at a time with no ill effects.   I understand many climates won't allow this and that's why containers.   Hats off to you all.

Centurion/Dave....

How lucky you are to live in zone 8b.  Many of your outside plants become my houseplants when Winter hits The Bronx, NYC.  I'm in a warmish 7b, but I would not take the chance with my trees in-ground.  So, I containerize, but it's not a growing method for the neglectful.  You must provide everything for the trees.  It's almost like having a "botanical pet".  I haven't yet tired of this growing method.

Thanks for the comments.

Frank

Quote:
Originally Posted by Centurion

I have to admire those of you with your many large containerized trees.   I don't think I could do that.   The thing about in ground trees is...you can forget about them for weeks and even months at a time with no ill effects.   I understand many climates won't allow this and that's why containers.   Hats off to you all.

 

I totally agree. Whenever I read about the fig shuffles, and growing in pots, and frost and all, I too tip my hat to those of you who must do all that. If I was unable to eventually grow figs in the ground, I doubt I even would be trying.

It seems like anyone who wants to grow more than a few varieties will eventually turn to container culture.

Frank when i get the time again i show my Sals conainter tree bought same year as that hardy chicago tree in same size container.
Its trunk is a thicker diameter.

Yes as i and maybe others age its a pain to take care of them when it comes to root pruning and the fig shuffle.
One day i do not worry they will all be inground "hopefully" just not in this state.

Thanks, Martin....

I'd love to see the photos.  Since I must grow in containers, I always wondered  if the trunks would really fatten up, or will they forever stay the size of a broom-stick.   Your tree - (the Hardy Chicago in ground) - reminds me of some of the containerized, fig trees that I saw at the now defunct, Bellclare Nursery.  Boy, I wish that nursery was still around!

Tapla has written about root-pruning containerized trees, and re-planting the tree back in the same pot, but I never read about anyone saying that their trees have gotten thicker while in the container.

I'm curious about the potential for the trees to gain wood mass, and thickening of  the branches over time.  I would think that in-ground trees probably bulk-up much quicker. 

Anyway, thanks for the information, and your interest.   Even though this is your tree, and you raised it, I still feel for it... I would hate to read that the tree passed away.  I hope it lives.  I light a candle for your tree.

Frank


Frank here is my Sals from last season in 30g,  trunk measure near soil almost 4 inches across.
They do thicken over time in conatiners just slowly.
Yes inground would bulk up faster .

Click thumbnail to enlarge

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Martin that nice picture of your Sals reminds me that I have nonexistent pruning skills.  I need to spend more time learning about pruning and less time propagating fig trees.

I would also like to get better at shaping my trees. Your trees look so outstanding.

Oh, Martin....

What a great looking tree....and yes, I see how thick the stems can get.  Thanks so much for taking the time to post the photos.

Frank

PS....Gravy tomorrow?  Take your pills!

Quote:
Originally Posted by fleeben
It seems like anyone who wants to grow more than a few varieties will eventually turn to container culture.

 

I'm heading in the other direction... When I first started, I was going to grow all my figs in large terracotta pots (which were looking for occupants). But the more I read about what his necessary to grow plants in containers successfully, the less I know that will happen - too much work/lifting. So into the ground in the form of hedges most of mine will go. I'll still put some in the pots as much as for ornamentals as anything, but in-ground figs seem much easier. Of course you have to live in a climate where that is possible. :)

Gina yeah Jon the big cheese here always rubs( Fig Paradise)  in for us cold weather folks.

I have gone from growing in containers to growing in the ground as well.  In Houston I had limited space for trees combined with RKN in the ground.  I grew 132+ fig and pomegranate trees in containers.  Root pruning / re-potting was a huge undertaking every year, but it got done.  Now I am growing north of Austin in the ground.  There is seven acres here to plant on.  Currently I have planted on 1/2 an acre with the goal of getting to about 3 of the 7 acres in the field.

The change in location and growing style has provided some advantages as well as some challenges.  I'm not sure one is easier than the other, just different.

~james

In the ground is almost always better. I live north east of Austin, Texas and have a revolving orchard. The in ground trees are on 15 foot centers but an excess of varieties and less than unlimited acreage keeps some in pots. Some have been dug up as they do better in containers (Goccia d'Oro) and others in pots are waiting for when I decide to rogue some in the ground. Figs are so beautiful though that a well pruned and potted one should be by every door.

 

How many years can you grow a fig in a container (15-20 gallon size) without root pruning before it significantly declines?

 

I really do want to plant some in pots as ornamentals. But root pruning? Realistically, I doubt that will happen.

Gina -- if you want to grow them as ornamentals you can probably go more years than if you want them to produce fruit.  I'll leave it to others with more experience to answer about how many years you can really get by with for different cultivars, but the recommendations I've seen suggest root pruning and soil replacement every three years if you want to keep fruit production up.

  
As for me, I'm in a cold climate and went from inground (with burial & exhumation every year) to doing containers now.  My hope however is still that I'll find a fig cultivar that really will do OK in zone 5, in ground, without burying, and still produce figs.  That's why I got Hardy Chicago recently (the hope of that scenario).  But in another of these threads, it sounds like Marseilles Black VS and maybe Sal's also might be better than Hardy Chicago in the cold.

Though I'm rather new to containerized fig growing (just 2 years of that after around 40 of inground), I've figured out that containerized fig growing is a bit like the art of bonsai... just bigger than most bonsai.  I'm still asking myself what I've signed myself up for!  I thought it'd be less work than all the burying and exhuming of trees every year!  (Not clear that that's true... though it does at least seem like less strain on my back).

Mike    central NY state, zone 5

gina,

 

from what i have read, first time it's in the final size pot, it can stay for 4 yr before the first root pruning.. after that every 3  yrs or so. but i noticed that each of my trees grow roots in different rate even when i'm giving them same care. for example, my KB container is full now with root. i'll have to do something about it this winter. my VdB is not nearly full. Paradiso is just about right and can spend more time in the container before pruning. they are all in 10 g pot.

 

pete

MichaelTuscon...

Growing in containers can be a bit labor intensive.  You always must be mindful of watering and fertilizing.  Root-pruning, and re-potting every 3-5 years into fresh medium...yes.

But...you might have an alternative.  If you can, sink your containers 1/2-way into the ground and pile mulch up around the sides to conserve moisture.  Of course cut holes into the SIDES of the containers only for drainage.  Roots will grow out from the holes, and when it comes time for storage, run a sharp spade right down the sides of the containers, and sever those wandering roots.  Then, lift your containers, and stick them in cold storage.

It is more work that in-ground, but Zone 5 Central, NYS climate is not the same as the sun-drenched,Siciilian country-side either.  We must do the extra work because we choose to grow plants that would never live in our areas.

Happy growing...and, happy hunting for the magic Zone-5 fig variety.

Frank

I guess variety selection is more important if root pruning isn't likely to happen - the clay pots in question are just too large, heavy, and breakable... So.. the more vigorous growers will go into the ground - and those that are less robust but still nice will go into pots.

 

When I read about fig varieties at different sites, I often see mention of those that 'do well in containers'. Guess I'll have to keep a list for that trait too. :)

 

So, Paradiso and VdB for starters. :)

 

The plan is to aesthetically position these large pots containing figs around the yard. In our Mediterranean climate, they'll look right at home. If they start to look gnarled and bonsai-ish, all the better.

 

As to producing figs, I'm figuring the inground ones will be producing more than enough.

Gina....

I'm sorry to have to tell you this, but containerized figs will always need to be root-pruned , and then planted into fresh medium, if they are expected to keep thriving.  Over the years, as the containers fill with roots, the trees will start to decline, and lose vigor, until....you know the rest.

Your "bonsai-ish" trees will just be, more, and more, "ish" after a while.  : )

Frank

But I don't expect them to keep thriving. That is for the ones in the ground to do. I am in zone 10 where this is possible. :)

 

As I said, I have large, heavy, breakable terra cotta pots that are just too difficult to root prune. It simply will not happen. The figs in them will be decorative for as long as they are decorative. :) And when they turn too 'Ish'-ish, they will be sent to the glue factory of cuttings and new ones planted. Hopefully with the right varieties, that won't be for 5 to 7 years. I do not expect perfection in my container fig growing, just 'pretty'. :)

 

Of course planting those large pots is still a very long time away. Several are large enough to put 15 gallon black plastic pots inside and mulch over the tops.

 

 

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  • BLB

I understand the root pruning thing is not an easy job and not fun. I know an older guy who has had his fig trees in very large pots for about ten years, he never root prunes, just adds fertilizer to them every spring. I wonder if the tree doesn't somehow root prune itself with the crowded pot squeezing old roots to death and regenerating new roots each year. He gets a decent amount of figs, probably would get much more if he root pruned from time to time. So it is possible to grow without root pruning, just not exactly recommended, but certainly better than no figs. 

Gina i do understand what you mean in your situation you want for decoration and they are very ornamental.
The Ross root feeder may be of great help as you enjoy them in those pots until there demise.
In that type of situation they would not wilt as much in Zone 10 cause there getting water more to the interior of the rootball as opposed to a watering can which when rootbound will just run out the sides mostly.
You can even put fertilizer in the cup when using it and it may get you to have them look nicer a little longer.
Sure they eventually go kaput meh no big deal then you put in another right ?


  • Rob

There's more than one way to root prune.  Perhaps the most effective, but also most labor, is to actually shake/rinse off all the soil, and then cut the roots down to size. 

There is another method, that is somewhat less effective, but far less labor.  If you just take a sharp spade, and plunge it into the root mass radially from the center out to the edge of the pot and all the way down, you will sever a large portion of the circling roots.  I don't have a lot of experience with this, but would think you could do this every season, and only do a major root-pruning every 4 or 5 years. 

There are also containers that are designed to self-root prune.  These are more expensive but would also theoretically allow greater root health, and therefore greater tree vigor.  I'm trying out some now.  There are several designs.  The one I'm using is basically just a cloth sack.  My understanding is, the root will try to grow out the sack.  But since it has nowwhere to go, it will stop and throw off smaller branch roots off instead of just circling round and round.  Time will tell how well this will work. 

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