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Encanto Farms Nursery > Topics > Covering drainage holes
 
 


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elin

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Posted Reply with quote  #1 
Hi
I am in the proceess of uppoting and would like to know if somone has an idea of a material i can acquire for a cheap price that will stop soil coming out of the side drainage holes in the bottom of my pots.

I need it to be non toxic and hold itself composed for 3-5 years when i root prun.
Untill now i was using paper but am afraid of toxicity since bleach is added.

thanks
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Eli ,Israel ,Zone 10? Too humid and hot, yada yada yada
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BexleyRabbit

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Posted Reply with quote  #2 
I use old pine bark but don't think it would last 3-5 years and what organic will?

Some use scoria or similar but obviously this adds weight to the pot.
IamKriya

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Posted Reply with quote  #3 
You can try what bonsai enthusiasts: http://bonsaitonight.com/2012/02/24/how-to-wire-a-bonsai-pot/
They use screens to cover drainage holes.
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rafed

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Posted Reply with quote  #4 
I was going to suggest drywall tape but Ryans post #3 is as close as it gets. That's what I used to use and it worked well.
Dieseler

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Posted Reply with quote  #5 
Perhaps stuff some packing material peanuts in the holes ?
With ours i just leave them open .
Ampersand

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Posted Reply with quote  #6 
Broken terra cotta pots work fine for my potted plants, 1 piece per hole and you're set. Even if it completely covers the drainage hole it'll breathe and let water out.

What I call butcher paper is unbleached/dyed. Plain cardboard could work as well. But I doubt those will last years.
james

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Posted Reply with quote  #7 
I've used weed blocking cloth successfully in the past.  My current preference is window screen mesh.
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gorgi

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Posted Reply with quote  #8 
Coarse pine bark.
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javajunkie

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Posted Reply with quote  #9 
I use coco coir, the kind they line the wire hanging pots with, I put it in the bottom and around the insides of my pots.
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elin

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Posted Reply with quote  #10 
Maybe il go to thw beach and get some sea shells.

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Eli ,Israel ,Zone 10? Too humid and hot, yada yada yada
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needaclone

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Posted Reply with quote  #11 
Like others, I've used coarse pine bark and landscaping weed-block.  I've used paper coffee filters, but I don't think they'll last 5 years. 
I love Rafed's idea of using drywall tape.  I'm assuming he means the fiberglass mesh tape that is sticky on one side (this is clear if you follow the link in post 3).   Just cut as much or as little as you need from the roll. 
There is even a more heavy-duty version of that tape that is used when doing ceramic tile work.
I think I've also seen window screen mesh that come in small-width rolls, intended for patching holes in screens.  I think that has a sticky side, too.
I think that fiberglass mesh drywall tape will be my new go-to method!!!
Jim
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Aaron4USA

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Posted Reply with quote  #12 
potato sack material... it's organic.
james

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Posted Reply with quote  #13 
I do not think burlap will hold up for 3 years at the bottom of a container. 
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2016 Wish List:  Dārk Pōrtuguese, Grānthāms Royāl, Lātarolla, Negrettā, Nōire de Bārbentāne, Rockāway Green, Viōlet Sepōr, Viōlette Dāuphine.  Iranian figs are always welcome.
Feigenbaum

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Posted Reply with quote  #14 
I use pieces of fly screen. ( is this the correct engl. word?)

I cut it in the same shape as the bottom of the pot.

Made of PVC i guess, so it won't rot in years. Works fine for me!



But probably not the best solution for very big pots...
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TONYSAC

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Posted Reply with quote  #15 
Plastic canvas material you can buy at a craft store or just search ebay.
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TONYSAC

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Posted Reply with quote  #16 
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Anthony
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Aaron4USA

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Posted Reply with quote  #17 
i used to use door screen material from Home Depot, but i gave up... i just fill the 1/4 then press a little to firm up the soil then fill it up as a regular potting procedure. i don't care anymore.
cis4elk

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Posted Reply with quote  #18 
I'm with Martin and Aaron. Just fill it about 1/4 the way full of soil and pack it lightly. It will loose some now and then, but in reality after the initial potting and moving around I would say you will lose less than a 1/4 cup of soil per year. Especially once the roots mingle and hold it all together. The only time I loose any out of mine is when an earth worm that found a new home occasionally pushes a half teaspoon or so out one of the holes.
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elin

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Posted Reply with quote  #19 
not only an earth warm in my case.
these ants invade my drainage holes and leave a mess.

Maybe i guess that the good thing about SIPS except enahnced growth and water conservation
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Eli ,Israel ,Zone 10? Too humid and hot, yada yada yada
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cis4elk

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Posted Reply with quote  #20 
Then I would go with James and Christian suggestion and use window screen.
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Dieseler

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Posted Reply with quote  #21 
Ball up and stuff ladies nylon thing an mah do gee's in them holes !
bullet08

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Posted Reply with quote  #22 
i just let it drain out. sooner or later, it will stop and get filled up with roots. roots will help further from washing soils out. 
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Pete
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Dieseler

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Posted Reply with quote  #23 
Many good options posted in thread  - good luck whatever you choose if you do choose any. ; )
FigTrees2013

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Posted Reply with quote  #24 
Coffee Filters work great, though they break down quickly. Still, you can always replace them when you pot up plants.
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KK

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Posted Reply with quote  #25 
Quote:
Originally Posted by FigTrees2013
Coffee Filters work great, though they break down quickly. Still, you can always replace them when you pot up plants.



Bingo
Grasa

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Posted Reply with quote  #26 
double coffee filters, or triple it.  works great.
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Grasa
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Posted Reply with quote  #27 
How about round stones? Broken terracotta pots sounds like a good idea too.
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Bosco

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Posted Reply with quote  #28 
Elin,

Second the use of any kind of material that will not impede drainage.  Or, blockage of holes!   Better yet, as Pete suggests, just let soil run out, leaving room for roots.    All above mentioned window screen or larger mesh ideas work great too.  I've also had good results using pieces of plastic mesh bags one finds larger quantities of potatoes or oranges packed in. 

Filling pot bottoms with pine nuggets, while up potting last August, caused me nothing but grief this winter.  Using them to block holes helped in creating a soggy/rotting mess in pot bottom.  Didn't help that my mix was a little rich in organics and short on perlite either!  I ended up having to re-pot everything while trees were still dormant last month.   Learned my newbie lesson the hard way.... fast drainage and a light airy mix are my number one priority for the smaller pots with young trees from here on. 


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Jack
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elin

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Posted Reply with quote  #29 
Bosco and all thanks will probably leave the pots without anything in the bottom , regarding the ants i will try to see if i find some organic material cause somtimes i reuse the soil that comes out from the pots for new plants.
I also noticed that once the root mass is established after a year the soil runing out is less.

problem is like everything tidy... :)
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Eli ,Israel ,Zone 10? Too humid and hot, yada yada yada
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snaglpus

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Posted Reply with quote  #30 
I use lava rocks.
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Dennis
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Posted Reply with quote  #31 
Hi,
I use stones or bits of bricks or a bit of a broken plastic pot... Or if the holes are small enough, I let them open to see the roots coming out of the pot .
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omotm

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Posted Reply with quote  #32 
I used to use spaghnum moss stuffed in the holes then I tried Rafed's suggestion (post #4).  It's a freakin' great idea, the adhesive holds the piece of drywall tape in place while you fill the pot.  This IS the best idea since sliced bread. : )
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elin

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Posted Reply with quote  #33 
I am bumping this thread in need of some help with Drainage!

for pot growers u know that there are two kinds of pots...  the ones with holes in the bottom and the nursery/specialized ones with drainage on the sides.

I am growing on ceramic stone and bottom holes would make me clean it every watering.
also i feel that having holes on the sides more water is left instead of running directly to the bottom especially when using  1 dripper per pot.

 Is there importance in having drainage in the bottom of the pot vs drainage in the sides of the pot?

When i irrigate the pots with the holes in the sides of the pot there is some water left  in the bottom on every watering - is that bad ?

BTW untill now i didnt experience any problem with both methods but in terms o fruit production and splittings i am still wondering.
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Eli ,Israel ,Zone 10? Too humid and hot, yada yada yada
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Tea

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Posted Reply with quote  #34 
I use coffee filters. Ridiculously cheap, ridiculously effective. They decompose quickly enough, but by that time there is generally enough of a root network that soil stays inside the pot. :)

I use ordinary holes in the bottom type lots, Elin. Many plants are fussy about having wet feet, so it is good to know you can get full drainage when you need it.
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Smungung

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Posted Reply with quote  #35 
What about a layer of the fabric the stops weeds from growing it's like a black cloth. I dont know if anyone recommend yet but just wanted to get it out there.
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elin

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Posted Reply with quote  #36 
I diverted from the main topic- what is the importance of bottom drainage vs the side holes we see in nursery pots.
any relation to fruit quality or production?

We all know mature trees dont rot...
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Eli ,Israel ,Zone 10? Too humid and hot, yada yada yada
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OttawanZ5

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Posted Reply with quote  #37 
I fine side holes and bottom holes both help drainage but both have pro and some cons.

Bottom hole helps normal drainage by gravity as well as wick-ing effect to ground but when pots are partially buried in soil, the roots going into ground are hard to cut when moving the pot
side holes provide gravity drainage but when buried the roots going out from the sidee into soil are easy to cut when moving the pot.

For stopping soil mixture going out through the holes I use leaf mold tocover the athe holes. Yes, it slows down drainage but does not stop it.
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texas_girl

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Posted Reply with quote  #38 
Pieces from a old terra cotta pot. It holds water too, if you forget to water your plants ;)
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Smyfigs

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Posted Reply with quote  #39 
Maybe Gardeners weed guard?

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Easy-Gardener-WeedBlock-3-ft-x-50-ft-Polypropylene-Landscape-Fabric-1042R/202043542
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elin

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Posted Reply with quote  #40 
I have read in many places that gravel can hinder drainage.

http://www.todayshomeowner.com/garden-myth-putting-gravel-in-pots-and-containers/

What do members here feel is best. How many of you are using pebbles? Bark? Without?

Anyone have noticed less dropping fig with pebbles than without?
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Eli ,Israel ,Zone 10? Too humid and hot, yada yada yada
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Tonycm

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Posted Reply with quote  #41 
Eli, I've never used gravel so I can't say anything good or bad about it. When I pot up my figs I always line the bottom with medium size pine bark nuggets. You can't go wrong with it as its natural and won't harm your trees. Once the soil settles in all the gaps it stays in place until I have to repot in a couple of years. It also allows for drainage. I don't get too elaborate and just keep things simple. Pine bark on the bottom, add soil, then a layer of pine bark on top to keep pots from drying out too fast when it gets too hot.
If you're still having trouble with ants you can put some Borax or ant traps near the opening to kill them.
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AndyInNYC

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Posted Reply with quote  #42 
I use screen door material from Lowes/HD.  A roll will last forever and if you move up to 5 gallon buckets or larger (which have larger holes most likely) you'll still be set.

Andrew
TahomaGuy2

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Posted Reply with quote  #43 
Screening material is my choice for 1-gal pots because I don't like any soil falling out every time I pick-up the pot.
Screening also keeps gnats and other insects out. Once cut to size it can be used over and over again.
The light-weight pot lets me know when it's time to water. When I used to put stones in some, I was never sure
and over watering hurt the drought-loving plants.
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Jerry_M

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Posted Reply with quote  #44 
Like some others I use aluminum or fiber window screen mesh. I cut a 4 inch piece or so and poke it through the hole from inside out untill it stays in place then fill the pot with soil.


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