Twice now Ive had cuttings that begin to rapidly grow several 1-2inch leaves, then all of a sudden they just stop...even small leaves mid-growth(leaflings, post-bud inmature leaves...Im not sure what to call them) just halt their growth and the whole cutting just stagnates.  It doesnt dry up nor do any leaves turn yellow and die.

It just seems the growth and development of the cutting explodes, then crashes.

My first cutting sat with the same three leaves for what seemed like months, eventually something came along and began to just eat the leaves.  Its not dead, the tip of the cutting where the leaves and stems were originating is still green.

My second grew 4 leaves of matching size in rapid succession.  It went from bud to 4 leaves almost over night, now the 5th leaf is stunted and hasnt grown a bit in a week or two.

Is this normal, is there something I should be doing?  Watering?  Feeding?  More sunlight?

Im in Southern California, about 5 miles off the coast in Los Angeles.

I have the same exact problem with my Panachee!  First year cutting had 1 leaf and a growth tip.  Next year, 2 leaves and a growth tip.  Finally, I pinched the tip, put it in a pot on the drip system, and this year it has 5 leaves and a growth tip.  It's in the sun, should be happy, but stunted!  I hope somebody has answers.  I may just pinch the tip this year.  Very frustrating!
Suzi

The energy required for the first leaves to emerge from the leaf buds of cuttings is stored as carbohydrate at the base of the bud. All that's required for the plant to metabolize that starch and for leaves to appear is water. Once the first leaves open, it takes a vascular connection to roots for the plant to take up the nutrients dissolved in the soil solution, which the plant uses as building blocks in forming the cells and tissues that make up the second generation of leaves. If that connection isn't made before rot prevents it from ever happening, the cutting fails.

One of the reasons it's a good idea to have roots warmer than shoots up to about 72* or so, is that the cooler shoot temperatures suppress shoot growth and help the plant channel energy into root formation. When you are starting cuttings, it's a good idea to do everything you can to prevent rot organisms from fouling the plumbing before the root to shoot connection is made. That is the turning point that determines whether the cutting strikes or fails.

It's difficult to say what might be wrong in either CJ's of DD's case. If the cuttings have roots, there is probably something culturally very wrong. The likely suspects are not enough air or too much water in the root zone, followed by a lack of fertility - more info is needed to make an educated guess.

Al  

So what are the options for increasing airflow into the soil?  I know a deep watering would it, but would that be too much for the period of time the water presists if there is too much water already present?

Perhaps its already too late and the roots have rotted already.  I had moisture control soil handy for the cutting, the hope was that it would have held enough moisture without encouraging rot...not the best choice, but it was what I had and has worked for other types of cuttings.

OK.  I think mine is getting too much water.  It's on the vineyard drip system, and gets more water than my other figs.  It's got good drainage, but we'll try moving it!
Thanks!
Suzi

Mine are doing ok for now, I try to go much longer between watering, but I will look into switching to another soil after this summer.  

I cropped the rootball this year and saw tremendous growth between both plants, they arent stretching out like I had hoped(short distance between nodes), but im getting all kinds of new branches and the Peter's Honey is developing lots of fruit.  I'll let them be until after the summer heat and fruit collection.

Not sure if it helps, but I saw extremely explosive growth by setting my pots directly in contact with the ground and letting the roots penetrate out of the pot holes into the ground.  See this thread and pics for a visual and text example of what I'm talking about: http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/A-couple-observations-5378926

Thank you Al, the light bulb clicked on. I now understand the majority of my failures when rooting this year. 

Well, my stunted Panachee's pot is directly on the ground, but it's off the drip system.  It get's plenty of air because it's in a root pruning pot.  I'm hoping letting the dirt dry out will kick start it again!  We are out of town for 3 days, and it gets morning/midday sun only now on a week when the high of the day is about 107 degrees.

My thriving VdB are also in ground, and their roots have made it to soil.  I shudder thinking about moving them.  Not going to be easy!
Suzi

Old cutting is leafing again, ive been letting the soil dry out...perhaps its helping.

The new cutting with stagnation, for which this post was about, is dropping its leaves like the old cutting did...i'll let it dry out in hopes it'll leaf out again under better conditions.

old cutting is going nuts, letting it dry seems to be helping.  Waiting for the newer cutting to show life again

old cutting stagnant again, gonna try different soil in near future.

Placed the first cutting(the only one to still have any life) in Pro-Mix HP...it made all the difference in the world.  That baby took about a month to respond, but she burst into the best growth spurt ever.  Its doubled in length, has about 8 large leaves and even has fruit budding for next year.


Im so pleased because this cutting is for my mom, I cant wait to give it to her.

I will be looking for new cuttings for next year with much anticipation(can never have too many Peter's Honey trees). 

This is a GREAT thread! most helpful.  It's scary, I actually understood it!!

*wipes hands* my work here is done.

From what I can tell the Pro-Mix HP is really just stick in, water it and walk away.  My only suggestion, bury as much of the cutting into the medium as possible.  I lay it just about level and leave a couple of inches sticking out, leave it in a shaded area.