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cutting or tree

When does a cutting becomes a fig tree?  How many leaves should it have? When do you stop watering it like a cutting and water it like a tree? Just wondering, thanks.

Good questions.  This deserves a bump.  

I'll provide personal experience, but keep in mind there isn't a solid rule book.  Everyone does it differently.

  • I started cuttings in March of this year.
  • Transferred from 16oz cup to 1 gallon pot sometime in May and kept sheltered from rain.
  • Never really soaked the pot, but added roughly 8oz of water at a time.  I would water based on how heavy the pot felt.  I didn't want it to be heavy, but I wanted it to be damp, if that makes sense.  Depending on how hot it was, I could be adding water every day or every 3 days.
  • Around early July, growth slowed down a little.  With some reservations, I would carefully massage the pot to loosen the roots from the wall of the pot and rotate the pot nearly upside down while securing the the cutting from the base, as close to the soil line as possible, then gently wiggle the entire root ball out of the pot to examine the roots.  DON'T DO THIS IF THE POTTING MIX IS STILL VERY LOOSE.  Mine was compact enough to do it. Do not attempt this with a recently-watered pot.  It will be too heavy and there is a greater chance of the soil ball falling apart.  
  • If the roots were abundant, I would transfer to a bigger pot.  Again, ensure the root ball comes out as a whole.  You do NOT want the roots to move from their current position in the root ball, otherwise recovery will take longer.
  • After just a few days, I saw healthy, thick, explosive growth.
  • I'm still careful with watering, but after about 2 weeks, it is ready for normal watering, meaning you can simply drown it.  This is assuming you have normal upper 80s temps.
Below is an example.  I dug this up from an archive, but I may have up-potted these 2-3 weeks after I took this picture, moving to a 3 or 5 gallon pot.  Some people leave it for the rest of the year, which is fine, but you'll get faster growth moving it into at least a 3 gallon pot.


1.jpg 


Hi,
I could say : after the first dormancy, generally for me.
For me it is more about root-mass than leaf-count.
As for watering, a tree needs more water than a cutting. The best way to know, is by letting the pot go (a bit/enough) dry in between waterings.
If you find yourself watering a liter (1/4gal) every other day ... you probably have a tree in front of you .
If your cutting is in an half gallon pot (2 liters pot), and the pot is full of roots, that you can slip the tree out of the pot and all the dirt stays together because of the roots ... you have a tree.
If you have one root running in the pot, that you have more dirt than roots, you still have a cutting ( that can die quit quickly is you're rude with her) .

Of course, hitting a bush and getting stems with half-gallon of roots attached ... is called getting a tree too in my books.

I like Franks explanation but I just look at the soil moisture and water when its dry. When your rooting cuttings or transplanting  into a larger container you need to not over water but once the plant becomes established within its new container your fine to water when it becomes dry. You know when it becomes established when it starts growing vigorously. If your often over water your plants you can get a soil moisture meter or just use a bamboo skewer to check the moister in the pot. In my experience with figs, the roots grow fast and the plant should establish itself quickly if given adequate light.  

Very helpful guidelines to go by. Thanks for sharing this valuable information. 

Great advice guys!

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