When I root my blueberry cuttings I cut a wedge on the bottom of the scion just below a bud to expose more cambium. Has anyone tried this before with figs and if so did you notice more roots than with a straight cut below a node? I just put all my scions from very generous forum members in bags with long fibered peat moss and cut wedges on some and straight on the rest.

Blueboy1977: Figs root from anywhere on the cutting, not just cut area of cambium. I don't think fig cutting would require nor it would improve the rooting process. Just my opinion ;)

I didn't try to do it like that, so it will be interesting to see what comes out, keep us posted :)

Here are my believes on that : By cutting wedge you are exposing more internal wood to rot, pests and dehydration.
I read some people do wax those wounds to avoid dehydration and pests entry .
Figtree cuttings do root in portions of the cutting where all the bark is still there - as long as the bark does not rot - you don't need to take some bark out to help them root.

A small test for you and the others : If on one of your trees in the growing season, you put dirt against the trunk ( 10 cubique cm volume amount in a cube shape ) , you will see roots appearing in a matter of one to two months- That is how I airlayer the suckers that I want to move to a new place.

way the cutting is cut on the bottom, it's not going to make much difference as far moisture is concerned. it will go into the soil mix. but it can give more area for the rot to set in or fungus gnat larvae to munch on once rot sets in. but the idea behind giving more area for the root has been used over and over with good results. when doing air layer, many members scrape or score the area where they want the roots to start pushing out. i thought about doing the same to the cuttings, but since rooting is done indoor without much fresh air, i'm more concerned about rot and possible attraction to the fungus gnats. and figs usually root without much issue. 

I find that my cuttings root the same no matter what angle they are cut at. I put them straight to cups with moist coco coir and place the cups in a plastic bin set on a heat mat. Works every time.

Those cuts look too big to me and could increase the risk of getting disease and dehydration to the fig.

Having said that there a number of people that have suggested to me (including many old timers) that a little scaring of the bottom end maybe just a couple of slits with a razor would increase chance of rooting in that area. 
I had some cuttings that didn't root after 2months, so in desperation I tried that.  Barely cutting little of the bark at the bottom of the cutting just to reach the cambium layer and for what its worth they then rooted in after 3 more weeks.   Who knows.

Blueboy1977,
In addition to increasing chances of rot at the bottom of the cutting, It also exposes the Pith which will die back to the closest node above. The bark and outer layer would be the only support for the roots if any develop below the lowest "sealed" node.


 

But please do let us know how it works out with a follow up post on this thread. This forum is all about sharing information, tragedy and success.

Thanks for all the replies. I will go back and put straight cuts on the ones I only have a few of. I do have a bunch of unknown Peach flavored cuttings from a neighbor though and have two bags of cuttings rooting. One bag has the angled cuts and the other straight cuts. I will let those play out and see what happens. I put all my cuttings in ziplock bags with long fibered peatmoss. Time will tell!

I actually dip cut ends and the tips in paraffin in order to prevent any contact with diseases and moisture, cutting stay healthy. The roots and the new growth will penetrate the paraffin easily.

Just a follow up to my origional post. Yesterday I placed 8 cuttings in cups and of those 8, 5 had the wedge cuts. From what I saw yesterday they seemed to root better and faster than the straight cuts. I wish I would have stopped and took pics to show you guys. I did make my wedge cuts as close to the bottom node as I could. Some were dipped in clonex and some not. I did notice the clonex dipped cuttings had much stronger roots and had no problem removing the moss from them. I still have a bunch of cuttings that havent pushed roots as well, some wedge cuts and some straight cuts. So far I havent seen any indication that a wedge cut close to a node has any negetive effects. If anything they seem to have rooted faster. Still plenty more cuttings to go!

thanks for the update