I want to start  many cuttings of a certain variety....it doesn't matter which variety for this discussion...and I want to do this by sub-dividing the cutting wood into short sections, each having a dormant bud/leaf node.

For example:  If a branch about 16"-18"" long is cut from a tree, and that branch has eight leaf nodes, can I sub-divide that branch into 2" sections, each one having a leaf node in the middle of the shorter sections?  Therefore, on each side of the leaf node will be a 1" section of the original branch.  So I will have a 1" branch section, a leaf node, then another 1" section making the cutting to be rooted, approx. 2" in length.  I will try to use branches at least 1/2" - 3/4" in diameter, and it will probably be last year's wood.

How long do cuttings have to be to strike roots?  Can very short subdivisions of a branch be rooted if they all have a leaf node?  Can I also use newer wood that has lignified this season?

Just asking the good rooters on this forum if they think this method might yield good results.  I plan on half-burying ( EDIT: burying the cuttings in a horizontal position) the short pieces of the branch in some rooting medium, and covering the rooting box with a clear lid to make a mini-greenhouse.  The cuttings will be placed in a bright location to grow, and over-wintered in a warm, bright window.

I have rooted longer sections of a branch, but I want to know specifically, if short sections can be rooted with equal success.  Opinions please.

Thanks for the comments.

Frank

Frank,
Please see if this helps you:
http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/ampgtampgt-Online-fig-book-quotThe-fig-its-history-culture-and-curingquot-6368724

The image contains the cutting info.

greenfig:

I posted these questions barely one minute ago, and you not only answered my questions, but also provided reference links too.  What took you so long?

Seriously....thanks for the reading material.  I could have tried to find answers to my questions by searching and reading, but being basically lazy, I figured the forum members would chime in, and give me some quick answers.  I was right.

Now, I will make a cup of coffee, sit back, and read the rest of the answers from my forum friends.  By 5:00 PM, today,  I will know what's what.


Frank

You are welcome and enjoy your coffee ! :D

Sipping as I read.


F

Great site, too.

Sounds like a great idea.  But with my luck, they'd all outgrow the window sills by November.   Then what would I do with them!!

Nor do I have a good south facing window, so they would all be limited to morning or afternoon only light.

Frank,

Check out this post by Jon.

http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/One-Node-Wonders-4606770?highlight=node

In general I believe chances of success are greater with larger cutting lengths /diameters and more nodes, but very small cuttings with one node will work too.

good luck frank. thanks for asking the question. this thread is very helpful to me, as you have been.

 

That's it.  There's the answer.  Short pieces will strike roots, and a long branch can be sub-divided into many pieces.

Thanks for the links, answers, comments, photos, books, etc.  Now, I can grow a forest of figs.


Frank

I wouldn't cut them the way you mentioned.  Wood above the node will die back.  I would cut just above the node and let the node have as much wood below it as there is.

Bob,

I seems logical to do it your way.  I wanted to try a method for getting as many pieces from a given length of wood.  The link in reply # 8 shows one-node cuttings with roots.  I need a maximum amount of plants from a limited supply of wood.

I'll try it.  If it works, that's good.  If not, no big deal.  It's just an experiment.

Thanks for all the help, and suggestions.  In less than 24 hours, and I got all I needed to know.


Frank


EDIT....

As it turns out, the basic premise of my above questions were all answered in a thread called "ONE NODE WONDERS" started by Jon.  I must have buried this thread in my subconscious/unconscious mind, and asked about the same stuff all over again.  Sorry to be redundant. 

I should've realized that my premise would be a rehash of older, and, answered questions.  I never in my whole life, had an original thought that I could point to.  Why would I think that this would be different.  There is nothing new under the sun.

F

here is how i cut the cuttings. i keep the cuttings to about 5-6" with at least 3 nodes. reason being, they fit into cup better that way. i keep the bottom cut straight, perpendicular to the cutting itself and close to the node as possible without crushing the node. i make the top cut slanted and at least 1/2 to 3/4" above the node. i don't want the new branch to be too close to the top. for whatever reason if the new branch coming out of the node is too close to the  cut, they look weaker.