I'm still fairly new to growing figs, but this past winter has taught me to prune for cuttings by December if you want the best quality.  This year, I took cuttings in January and February and the tips were damaged by the cold.  This may be standard practice by most of you, but it's something to think about for the newer growers.  It may save a good strain!

last few yrs, i took cutting whenever i felt like. even during the summer. older wood doesn't seem to show much of an issue. but the new growth will leak latex for awhile. once it dries up, the pith will shrink and sunk into the bottom leaving a hole in the cut site. i agree it would be best to cut them when they are dormant. i'll have to clean up some of those holes in coming winter. 

Frank,
I've come to the same conclusion to prune once the trees have gone dormant in late fall.
I was able to get a few fall cuttings from 6 large in ground trees, but was only able to schedule Spring pruning for another 6 trees. I've pruned 4 of the six large trees already this spring and they all have had major die back with very little viable cuttings. Most have 4 inch and larger trunks and have been pruned back to 2' - 3' from soil line.


Pete,
Sealing the cut ends with pruning sealer after pruning in the fall will keep the pith from drying out completely and allow the bud time to grow out from the nearest full node in the spring.
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My mistake was starting too early (January) with the rootings. The fig fever overtook my good timing senses. Was hard to keep the babies going indoors and then making the transition to the outside. And the rain.... and then more rain.... 

If you can store them after pruning in December, I find it best to start cuttings in April to prevent so much indoor support.  I did so this year and it's been a lot less trouble than last year when I began rooting in January.

I have learned the hard way to start cuttings in ground when the weather warms up.  They seem to grow, and fungus gnats stay away.  I have a ton of cuttings to plant tomorrow from UC Davis, and they will be in partial shade, horizontal in a trench in ground.  I walk a way.  The sprinkler goes on every other day.  Once they show leaves, the gopher wire will come into play.  I'm done with cups and perlite!

Suzi

Suzy, I started to stick 'em directly into the see-through containers that have been drilled on the side bottoms (only 4 holes) and cover them with another see-through one to give the green house effect. You should see the size of those roots, I put them in a sunny corner but shelter them with portable palm tree s in pots. They love heat and bright light. You see the roots hitting the walls of the containers in less then 2 weeks. I'm still in shock.
I can share some pics if you guys want to see...

A picture is worth a thousand words :)

Aaron we need to see pics,  a lot of my cuttings failed and I am here in San Diego

4 hours already. Suspense.

I seem to be one of the few folks that likes green cuttings from this time of the year.

If I'm not terribly concerned about loosing fruit from taking branches -- or cutting suckers and branches lower then I want on the plant, I end up with a bunch of very viable cuttings. I usually stick them in water for a few weeks and then put them in a 1 gallon trade pot with fafard #52. I put a stick next to the cutting so the 1 or 2 gallon zip lock bag I put the whole thing into does not touch the cutting. 
When I take the cutting I cut back all but a fraction of one leaf (cuttings without leaves do no do as well). I put these mini greenhouses out in the dappled sunshine and they do as well or better then dormant cuttings taken in the fall. I try and take these before they are bigger then just one cutting (6 inches or so with at least 3 or 4 growth nodes) so there aren't cuttings without leaves left over.

If I want to do without soaking in water first I make sure there is a lot of moisture and there is plenty of condensation on the zip lock bag (sticks are very important here). 

Usually if the partial leaf dies so will the cutting, but if the "machinery" is uninterrupted the cutting will root quickly.

I have been doing this for several years and find it's very easy. But oddly there are certain varieties that don't seem to thrive using this method. Kathleen's Black is one example of a variety that takes a very long time before you can tell if it's going to root successfully. 

I root cuttings just about every way I can think of and this is one of my favorites. If sending these green cuttings they are very susceptible to drying out and do not do well if they aren't kept very moist.

When taking hardwood cuttings I don't find the sap leaking to be a problem and do not seal -- and definitely don't use any kind of sealants. If storing I either wash and wax the ends or wrap in clear wrap.

@jenn42
@patriota
@drphil69
@hershell
OK, I just came home from a long boring day of lecture in Beverly Hills. Bluh...
Just took pictures of the babies, they were asleep with their covers on, woke only 3 of them but it will give you an idea... this rooting and growth happened within... ok, I planted the cuttings on 04-27-2014. Do your math, LOL