This was my first year rooting fig cuttings and I learned a great many things. I don't know the final percent success, but I've been pretty pleased.

I was late to the game - starting at the end of February, so I had to move fast. It would have been nice to know more, but the final scramble was on and I didn't want to have to wait another year. Mistakes were going to be made.

This is what I've learned and change when possible:

1. Fig taxonomy is a grand mess - be flexible.

2. Buy from ebay only if you 'know' the seller. Feedback doesn't really help. The first cuttings I purchased were for a generic 'mission fig' from AZ, from someone who mainly sells stamps. They have rooted, but I really don't know what they will turn out to be. I don't think I was cheated or anything, but I know now the person just might not have known figs. I still have hope however. :)

3. The fresher the cutting, the better. Cuttings that have been in someone's fridge for too long are more likely to be past prime rooting age. I still have some just sitting there. But sometimes if it's a variety you want...

4. I cut most of my cuttings in half. Most were at least 2 nodes, some were single nodes. I don't really know how that affected rooting, and wish I had marked the single, double, triple node cuttings. Next year I will. It would have been so easy (1n, 2n, 3n), just didn't think of it.  

5. All have labels (except one), but I wish I had put dates on them all too. But there were so many at the time. And I kept getting more. :)

6. As when rooting roses, making sure there is a healthy bud right at soil level seems to also work for figs for forming a nice, single, vigorous shoot, which I prefer. Not sure if that is better, but I like the look of a single stem.

7. Stout cuttings seem to root better. I didn't really have control of that, just an observation. Of the cuttings that rotted, most were thinner ones with terminal buds.

8. I checked my cuttings often - many times each day - checking temp, light, humidity and making adjustments. That won't change. :)

9. After a cutting showed any green/bud growth (I do not use baggie method, but stick non-rooted cutting directly into perlite/planter mix in plant bands), I moved it to greater light - not sun, but shade near a window, eventually setting up florescent lights and plastic enclosures to keep humidity up. Most of these did not yet have roots. What I would change would be to set up the shop lights sooner, and keep them a bit higher so the cuttings did not get too warm from the lights. I don't like any temps over 75*F. I think 80* is probably safe, but if I keep 75* as the 'danger high temp', that gives me a greater buffer zone from making a mistake. To me, cooler is better. It will take longer to root, but less chance of mold. The weather co-operated too.

10. Next year I'll be more careful about the varieties I go after. I was able to do some reading on most of them, but I did end up with some I will just give away. I also plan on trying the Davis cutting route the coming year.

11. I'm still not sure if it's better to go for tried and true successful varieties (prolific with good taste), or to seek out some of the rarer holy grails I've seen many of you mention.

These are some of the things I've learned this first figgy year, and as a result will change some of what I do next year. In general I'm happy with the past cutting season, and it's far from over. Figs - a new passion - it's been grand fun.

What did you learn this past year, and what will you change?

For me, one thing I would do is start the rooting around 1st of April. This will work out better for me since by 1st of May, the temp here should be high enough for the cups to be outside. This will help to control possible mold and rot.

From this years cutting experience, I would not leave the cutting more than 3 weeks in the bag. Mainly, I don't see the advantage in longer roots when going into a bag.

Also, 2 tiny holes on the side of the cup might help with moisture control. With peat pot inside of 16 oz cup, I see lot of condensation. If roots are in too long a contact with moisture I'm afraid they might rot.

Pete

Another thing I would do different is start earlier - as soon as I got any desired cuttings. No frost here, so no worries about starting too soon.

I think you covered all bases Gina.  I am having a time with temps.  It is getting to warm to leave the cuttings in my greenhouse.  I saw temps reach 110 before the mister's could bring it down to 95 degree's.  Next year I will move them outside under a tree before we get the hot weather.  I am having to water every other day now.  I also, have found that the ones I am using city water exclusively are behind the ones I have watered with only well water.  When I move them this evening my controlled groups come to a halt.  Rain, if we get any, will factor into the picture.  In closing I will make sure my PH is in line...  Adding lime to my soil brought my one in ground tree back to life.  Everyone's input sure has been helpful to me.

I learned that several methods of rooting work.  I had some in moss in plastic containers, some  straight to 16 oz cups of vermiculite and perlite, some I rooted in groups in 25 gallon tubs of potting soil and vermiculite.    I set the refrigerated cuttings in the tubs the same time as my fig trees were budding out.  I use 6 inch cuttings because that is recommended by most I've read.   The ones in the tubs are showing the most growth.  I guess it is because the roots have not been disturbed since  they were put in.  I also prefer a single trunk and have pruned off extra shoots that formed.

I will avoid Miracle Grow Organic potting mix like the plague.  I'm convinced that is what caused my fungus gnat problem that has contributed to the loss of several cuttings.  Instead I will stick with the Fafard professional mix and perlite.  These seem relatively pathogen free, therefore good for cuttings that will stay inside for a long time. 

Water less.  If I have room I'm just going to stick the cuttings in 1 gallon pots, cover with plastic bags, and be done with them.  Forget sphagnum, baggies, etc etc.  Those methods work but take too much time and attention.

Be more selective with which cuttings I choose.  I went overboard this year so I have to reel it back or risk the wrath of my better half.

In addition to the variety name and the source, I think I'll write the exterior color of the fruit on the labels

At some point I plan on cutting up plastic that would otherwise be recycled (take out containers, etc) into tags, then use soldering iron to write accession numbers, then affix to plants.  This way the sun won't bleach out labels.  This is cheaper than the aluminum ones.  Even if they wear out in a few years, it's essentially free to make more.  I'll always have at least two tags on each plant/pot so that if one is unreadable for any reason, I can refer to the backup.

I also second the bit about being careful of ebay cuttings from unreferenced sellers.  I got a couple that were moldy from ebay.  I think I'll stick with UC Davis and members of the forum next year. If I want to buy some rooted trees, I'll probably also buy them from people on the forum as well.

last fall and this spring, i used scott's seeding soil and scott's perlite, 50/50, to start the cuttings. haven't had any issue.

my wife used miracle gro stuff once and they did have problem with gnat. 

but i thought they were under same company.. maybe different brand under same company and under different management and all that stuff...

pete