Should I seal the cuts on the fig after cutting it back? 1 inch or thicker / main branches? I've seen sealing material for fruit trees. Not sure if that applies here.

If pruned correctly the tree has its own mechanism for healing the wound. Commercial sealants are not necessary, and some say, interfere. The internal wound does not go awat, so it is always best to prune as soon as you know the limbs need to go to keep the wound small.

i don't seal them. only time i see an issue is when i top the main trunk. branches usually don't have an issue. taking them off when they are dormant is best. when they are actively growing, the pith shrinks or rot away and leaves a hole at the end. i need to clean up some of my trees this winter.

Hi LizziB,
I do not seal, except with some dirt - I have clay dirt - that I rub upon the wound.
The cut should always be done in a way that water or snow will not sit there - so basically no cut-line parallel with the ground, better do it diagonal .

I pruned in February and as soon as growth started the cuts started to weep a clear liquid.  This went on for 2-3 weeks for some trees but does seem to be stopping now.  The only ones that are still weeping were the ones that came out of dormancy later so I am sure they will stop soon too.  I'm not sure what the repercussions are for having the tree go through the stress of this.  I think next year I will do the pruning in the late Fall/early winter instead to give more time for healing.

LizzieB,
The recommendation is not to use pruning sealers, but I seal all the cuts that I make on larger limbs of Fig trees. I also do not cut at a diagonal because the sealer prevents any standing water from causing rot.

IMO, sealing larger branches gives the tree time to form new buds and branches at the top most intact node, resulting in less branch die back below the cut. I usually prune while dormant and seal with an asphalt based sealer after the cut has stopped weeping. From my observations, ends that have not been sealed die back, rot and become a home for insects.
     .

Note the branches that have formed just below the pruned sealed cuts. The tree is growing in NYC, was not pruned by me, but I personally sealed the cuts.

Holy crap, I suggested enamel paint and was shunned. (added drama)
Asphalt is better running through the veins of our fig trees?
And we eat them? Holy asphalt!



Doug

Doug,
Asphalt is non toxic and has been used for decades as a plant sealer. Its application is as a "band-aid" on a scab. Water based Latex paints have also been tested and used as sealers they have low VOC's (Volatile Organic Compounds).

Oil based Enamel paints have high VOC's (Volatile Organic Compounds) and Oils that may damage the bark and plant, that's why it is usually not recommended or used...

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On smaller main branches, I make the pruning cuts at least 1-1/2 nodes above the final required cut and seal with pruning sealer, Elmer's School Glue or wax, to allow for die back. These pruning cuts are made before any buds start to swell and help to keep the desired buds from dying. The final correct trimming cut, as shown on the attached diagram can be made after the new branch has formed and the vascular system has been established instead of before (while dormant, before bud break).
  .

following link seems to give good reason why not to use sealer. i didn't know the reason, i was just too lazy to apply them and the large branch i cut off my VdB was not closing until i removed the bonsai sealer. but large cuts take lot of time to seal themselves. some sort of protection seems to be a good idea. maybe some type of grafting tape or something? 

http://aces.nmsu.edu/ces/yard/2001/021001.html

Pete,
Thanks for posting the link.

Elmer's glue is a vinyl, I think, and accessible and inexpensive. Would it work as a sealer?

NMSU is my Alma Mater, go Aggies! :)

One of my neighbors here in San Diego has a Mission fig tree that must be 30+ years old. At about 3 feet off of the ground, the trunk splits in two. One of split-off trunks is doing fine, while the other trunks has signs of insect infestation and is putting out just a few weak leaves. At first guess, it seems that it needs to be removed.  (The tree does have some good suckers coming up. I have told him he should train the strongest as a replacement for the branch that should be removed.)

Two questions:
1
This trunk is about 4-5 inches in diameter, would such a large cut be worthy of a sealer [even if it's Elmer's glue or latex paint...the owner doesn't want to use the asphalt sealer]?  

2
Should it be cut now, or should this work be left until the dormant season?  We live in a part of town with heavy marine influence that doesn't get very hot or cold.

Thanks!