i typically cut my cuttings to about 3-4" to fit my cup better. some if they do not have enough nodes, i'll leave them to have at least 3 nodes.

if there any advantage to having longer cuttings? do they store more energy for rooting and growing?

Intutively yes.
Relatively longer cutting should have more nutrient reserve to root.

I agree, the longer cutting have more energy reserved, and if you can get deeper cups/ pots longer cutting should have more nodes. now this part is just my opinion but the more surface of the cutting below the soil will allow more rooting to take effect with the extra nodes/or scoring under the soil. dont now for sure though but it makes sence.

All the literature that I found recommends cuttings to be a foot or so in size - or about 20-15 cm... those are tossed out in the field and they grow that way...

I think that fig cuttings between 6 and 10 inches long work better for me.
I (mostly) use 20 - 24 ounce foam cups [e/w potting soil with 1/3 -1/2 perlite mix to root them twigs].

Length is just one variable. I've found freshness and ample diameter to be more important than how long a cutting is. If the cuttings are older or not in premium shape, or if it's a difficult to root variety, then 'longer' definitely would be preferred.

Gina
I believe the question was understood to be, with all other variable being the same 'does a longer cutting have any advantage?"

Not sure that I see where my reply is out of line with the original question.

I always prefer a shorter, stout, fresh cutting to a longer stale one, and for me, length per se is not the primary consideration. :)

That's my answer, and I'm sticking with it. ;)

Pete, I think you need to get bigger cups or go with the baggie method. I don't know what your survival rate is, not saying your doing it wrong. Because if it works for you, it sure is right. I like to have same as George says, no less then 6" and up to 10. Maybe with that new method someone posted with the rock wool and growing hormone 3 to 4".



luke

I'm with Gina.  I like em fresh cut (not green), and no longer than 8 inches.  If there is a node under the soil, it will produce a shoot that will come up with a nice green leaf about an inch away from the cutting.  That, my friend, is a sign your cutting is alive and growing!!

Suzi

I like 6 to 10. my methods of rooting produce good results/ but im a guy that couldnt get the baggie method to work. im trying again though. i got my one node wonders up there along with 4 7 inch cuttings. i like em a little longer and prefer a thickness of around a 1/2 inch. those root like a charm. i also like the cuttings to not be tipped, they still root for me anyway. just with tip cuttings it usaly grows right up with little to no branching. I have cuttings rooting right now thats got 3 -5 shoot buds starting on all sides, same thing suzi is talking about. but i found what works for myself, just got to explore and find that perfect mix for you. i still try to improve at any rate. and enjoy reading about others ways. Rockwool was neat.

I have rooted cuttings 1 inch diameter by 18 inches long and 1 1/2 inch diameter by 18 inches long, and have gotten 5 gallon muli-branched potted trees over 4 feet tall the first growing season (4-5 months). They also would have ripened figs if my season was longer. From my limited experience, the larger the branch/cutting, the earlier and larger the resulting tree. The longest that I have tried is two (2) feet, but I did not gain any advantages over the 18 inch cuttings.

For normal trading/rooting purposes 6-8 inch long, 3 or more nodes and 1/2 to 3/4 inch diameter has worked fine. I have tried longer cuttings but they have not grown any faster or better. Tip cuttings seem to grow slower. I have experimented with one node and smaller diameter cuttings, they all grew, but the wait time for a producing tree will be years instead of months.

Longer (18 inches) and Larger diameter cuttings, have yielded larger and earlier producing trees in my rooting experiments.