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Experimental bore graft

It is what it sounds like
Supplies needed
Drill
Drill index set
Scions
I chose i drill bit that is just about the size of the bottom end of short cutting
When you have a proper fit the cutting will go in fairly easy without pushing bark off cutting then as you go up cutting towards a node the cutting gets tight. You cannot twist the cutting just straight pressure till it stops. Seal bore and edge of cutting with tape of your liking. I also put one layer of tape over top of cutting.
THIS IS NOT RECOMMENDED TO TRY. i just enjoy trying ideas that pop in my head
Also been off work for two weeks for knee surgery along with pain meds. ..... so as i said i dont recommend trying this. Not responsible for death or injury of your tree.

So you got bored and bored a hole in a fig tree?  Interesting.  I think it will work if cambium is touching.  Looks like a thorn.  [1f603] 

Similar theory to Veritas Plugger seems like. I need to start a thread and see if anyone has tried that product.

Never heard of this. Going to google it

Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
So you got bored and bored a hole in a fig tree?  Interesting.  I think it will work if cambium is touching.  Looks like a thorn.  [1f603] 

You know what they say about idle hands. ....

I just saw a picture of a drill bit made for this purpose.  I sure wouldn't mind seeing a video of how you did yours using an ordinary drill bit.  Just trying to help you fill the time while you're recuperating ;-)

Hope that knee heals soon.

Hmmm... Now you have me thinking crazy....  How about if one were to select a root stock and a cutting of approx the same diameter and preferably a bit over 1/4". Then using a drill bit selected to be about 1/8" smaller than the root stock, center the drill bit over the root stock and carefully core out the center down to about 3/4 - 1" in depth taking extreme care to only core the center while leaving the external cambium skin intact; essentially creating a cambium cylinder on the end of the root stock. That done, take the cutting / scion and after making a fresh cut on the bottom, slightly round the bottom to a convex tip and then mark the cutting at a point about equal to the depth of the cylindrical cambium tube just made on the root stock and hopefully about 1.5 - 2" below an obvious mode. At this point, if one were to slightly shave the cambium layer on the scion from the tip to the mark just made such that the scion tip is thinned and tapered a bit without completely shaving the cambium off of any part, one could then marry the cutting to the root stock by inserting the shaved point into the cambium cylinder downward until the cutting was seated against the root stock core and fthe tip was fully enclosed within the cambium cyclinder. Essentially creating a fishing rod type of joint. The grafted joint could then be sealed as per normal procedures to ensure a tight seal... I wonder if this would work.

This is what i do with the drill bit on the side. If you make a good match.... while you push the cutting in .... it gets so tight there is no need for tape to hold it in ..... used just to keep keep a air tight seal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tsparozi
Hmmm... Now you have me thinking crazy....  How about if one were to select a root stock and a cutting of approx the same diameter and preferably a bit over 1/4". Then using a drill bit selected to be about 1/8" smaller than the root stock, center the drill bit over the root stock and carefully core out the center down to about 3/4 - 1" in depth taking extreme care to only core the center while leaving the external cambium skin intact; essentially creating a cambium cylinder on the end of the root stock. That done, take the cutting / scion and after making a fresh cut on the bottom, slightly round the bottom to a convex tip and then mark the cutting at a point about equal to the depth of the cylindrical cambium tube just made on the root stock and hopefully about 1.5 - 2" below an obvious mode. At this point, if one were to slightly shave the cambium layer on the scion from the tip to the mark just made such that the scion tip is thinned and tapered a bit without completely shaving the cambium off of any part, one could then marry the cutting to the root stock by inserting the shaved point into the cambium cylinder downward until the cutting was seated against the root stock core and fthe tip was fully enclosed within the cambium cyclinder. Essentially creating a fishing rod type of joint. The grafted joint could then be sealed as per normal procedures to ensure a tight seal... I wonder if this would work.


Sounds like a four flap banana graft without the flaps.



Exactly Charlie... a 4 flap without the flaps... I was thinking that the cylinder and dowel combination would make a great seal and really maximize cambium to cambium contact....

cool maybe could use a tap and die also?

Quote:
Originally Posted by figwood1
cool maybe could use a tap and die also?

Wow grear idea

Tony, try it and do a YouTube, step by step, sounds like a winner.

So you want to drill a receiving hole, thread it and also thread the cutting?  

Image result for drill injury hand

Excellent idea Richie this is just the ticket for lopsided trees I did a search for bore grafting and this came up http://www.leevalley.com/us/shopping/techinfo.aspx?p=41817 they don't sell the bit anymore but all it is is a 16 degree reamer and a pencil sharpener 

Cambium contact is the critical issue. It won't be possible to just drill out the wood leaving bark and cambium. But there might be spots were the cambium is exposed inside the bore hole. Then the inserted part would need the bark peeled off to expose the cambium before inserting it into the cavity.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fignutty
Cambium contact is the critical issue. It won't be possible to just drill out the wood leaving bark and cambium. But there might be spots were the cambium is exposed inside the bore hole. Then the inserted part would need the bark peeled off to expose the cambium before inserting it into the cavity.

Yes but you can't twist to achieve contact rippsit all up. Steady pressure toll you see cambium being sqished a bit and stop. Thats why you pick a drill bit that just fits the bottom of cutting then when it reaches a node get tight. That all in theory at this point. Just a thought i had so i tried it. Not saying it will work at all. Lots of time on my hands while knee heals. ;-)

Kinda tough to find a tapered reamer with 16 degrees.  I suppose a standard drill bit could be ground down to match the pencil sharpener angle.  I'll talk to the guy in the machine shop where I work on Monday.  

Quote:
Originally Posted by chucklikestofish

did you clean bits in alcohol ?

experimenting is how we advance,let us know if it works,i think you are onto something ,
yes i did have 195 proof pure alcohol from work. Cant wait to see what happens. Did about 5 of these on a big tree i have. So. Wait and see

Look into bonsai thread grafting. Similar idea but doesn't use a cutting, rather the branch from a smaller tree. Once established the donor tree is cut away. It can also be done with another limb on the same tree, but that is more for aesthetics. OrlandoBonsaiTV has an excellent video.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bamafig
Look into bonsai thread grafting. Similar idea but doesn't use a cutting, rather the branch from a smaller tree. Once established the donor tree is cut away. It can also be done with another limb on the same tree, but that is more for aesthetics. OrlandoBonsaiTV has an excellent video.

Wow that sounds a great idea. Thanks

Plug grafting seems like a good idea until you think about it. Seriously guys, be careful with the powertools.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hoosierbanana
Plug grafting seems like a good idea until you think about it. Seriously guys, be careful with the powertools.

I put a disclaimer in. You have to read the original post and sign the disclaimer before posting on this thread. Thank you. Owner and operator FIGPIG_66.

Anyone interested in this method should check out approach grafting. It's used often in bonsai.

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