Earlier this spring when my very young Chicago Hardy tree came out of dormancy and started growing it was a single “whip” about two feet tall with no branching whatsoever.  There was a small group of leaves at the very top.  I had recently read this post about pruning of figs:

http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/Pinching-101-5521404

I was particularly intrigued by post #15 from nkesh099 who said that for best productivity it is best to have a tree with several branches that come out horizontally from the main stem a couple inches above ground level – pretty much the opposite of the way my Chicago Hardy was growing. 

So on the morning of May 5 on the way to work I bit the bullet and removed all but the lower 4 inches or so, including all leaves.

After about 2 weeks there was no growth and I began to worry that I had killed it.  But then I saw a green bud and another.  By June 7 you can see that it had recovered nicely.  So at least for this variety you can get away with some pretty extreme pruning and the tree will recover just fine.  Next I will try to train the new branches to protrude out at an angle closer to horizontal.

Steve

Wow that was an extreme haircut. Glad it worked out for you.

This is inspiring!  I have this really stupid 3 year old Panachee that will only grow 3 leaves per year, no matter where I put it, or which soil it's in, or how much water it gets!  The thing drives me nuts.  I've thought often about just removing the part with 3 leaves, stripping them off, turning them into a cutting, and see what the roots of the existing Panachee do. 

I'm really mad at that tree.  No probs with the others, but this one is a thorn in my side for sure!

Suzi

I don't think I would have the nerve to do this if this was my only fig tree, that's for sure. This seemed like the best way to get branches coming out close to ground level since pinching the apical bud probably would have resulted in branches at random places along the long and spindly stem. While the shape of the tree is much more attractive this way it remains to be see how productive it will eventually be.

Of course it worked but it is not recommended what you did.
That is because the tree was very young and in this case only top growing tip had to be removed.
You did not help the tree mature properly,but I am sure Hardy Chicago will recover.
Yet "Desert Dance": Do not try this procedure with your Panache because they are vastly different.
Panache is a diseased tree and doesn't have the resources to recover.
Pinch the top growing tip only,if it has one ,if not leave it alone,till it does.

"Yet "Desert Dance": Do not try this procedure with your Panache because they are vastly different.
Panache is a diseased tree and doesn't have the resources to recover.
Pinch the top growing tip only,if it has one ,if not leave it alone,till it does."

How do you know Panachee is diseased?  Because it hasn't grown properly?  Interesting, and I did remove the growth tip which as usual, was rock hard!  I removed the tip a month ago.  I'm not really sure what to do with it.  I did order Panachee cuttings from UC Davis for next year to see if I get a better tree from those.

This is frustrating for sure!

Suzi

Herman, I guess my question is what is the proper way to coax a tree to send out branches close to ground level?  Would pinching the apical bud achieve this?  Longer ago I pruned my VdB in a manner closer to what you suggest and there are branches all along the stem.  It looks nice but not really what nkesh099 was recommending.  Of course there are as many ways to prune figs as there are growers and more than one way to get a productive tree.  There may be drawbacks to the nkesh099 suggested method that I haven't yet discovered but that's the beauty of experimenting with figs. 

My HC has definitely recovered and I'm sure it will be fine but you are probably right that some trees (depending on variety etc) might not have responded the way mine did.  From here on out I'll definitely pinch.

Steve

Suzy:A lot of Mulch and old aged manure will improve your Panache.
Also if soil is acidic add a lots of Limestone powder or granulated.
If soil is acidic that is for sure Why is not growing .
It can't feed itself properly because of Fig mosaic virus + acidic soil.
Both these condition when in tandem will kill the tree.

Suzy:A lot of Mulch and old aged manure will improve your Panache.
Also if soil is acidic add a lots of Limestone powder or granulated.
If soil is acidic that is for sure Why is not growing .
It can't feed itself properly because of Fig mosaic virus + acidic soil.
Both these condition when in tandem will kill the tree.
Rewton:The method you used is the right one but only in the forth year,when tree is strong enough in the soil(root system).

Thanks Herman.  I'll try adding Limestone.  Our soil is alkaline, but this is potted in a mixture of perlite, crushed granite, pine fines, and turface.  Everything else in that mix, grows like crazy.  It's just this one fig that doesn't get the message.  I'll add it now, go away for 5 days, then come back and see how it does.

Suzi

Suzi :I would like to point out something for new people that read my post.
When I said a lot of mulch and manure I did not intend to say that it needs to be mixed in ,but only to be placed on the soil surface around and under the tree.
Mixing it in the soil,could burn and kill a tree.

I plan on doing similar to many of my figs next spring. This is my first yr with figs so I'm just working on keeping them alive right now ;)

I think I would prune just above the first branch, no need to test your luck. The plant will respond quickly and you will then be able to decide on another cut if you wish.

If I were to cut just above that first real branch, would I wait another year before pruning again further down if that is my desire? Or same season?

Nichole, I may be dreaming this but I think there was a post on this forum a couple months ago (or maybe it was the GW fig forum) about how one could make an incision in the bark close to a bud or leaf  to trigger a new branch to emerge from the bud. I tried to search for it just now but wasn't successful. Maybe someone else remembers the details? If you could get this to work then you probably wouldn't need to cut your tree too low to the ground because you could coax branches to form where you wanted them.

Nichole, It really depends on the tree, how much growth it puts on, but I am thinking I would probably limit further pruning for the year to pinching a few tips. 

Don't worry, the DK is safe from pruning for now. But come next early spring, watch out!

Herman, Sir; Is FMV responsible for the Panache's variegation?

Well ,Panache variegation,is a natural mutation,and is not because of the Fig virus.
I grew Panache,and I know it is very hard to make it grow so if I was you guys I will grow another fig,that wants to grow next to Panache so you can remain confident on yourself,because the growth of Panache will make you very stressed out,when you see the result.
Try Atreano,Vista Mission,Marseilles vs Black,if you want to see results.