Fertigation of cuttings will result in faster growth, healthier and more productive fig trees.

There has been much published about figs needing minimal fertilization. Its been my observation that this comment has been perpetuated and leads to lack of fertilization of newly rooted cuttings and young fig trees. The reduced fertilizer requirement actually applies to fruiting trees not young fig trees or cuttings. Fruiting fig trees need to produce less vegetation and more figs, therefore reduced Nitrogen levels is advisable.

Rooted Cuttings and young trees on the other hand need as much vegetative growth as possible and should be provided with a fertilization schedule with a balanced fertilizer. I've fertilized rooted cuttings with a dilute water soluble fertilizer (Miracle Grow All purpose). Starting with 1/2 teaspoon / gallon of water for newly rooted cuttings and progressing to 1 teaspoon / gallon of water with 1/4 teaspoon of Epsom salt once they are planted in 1 gallon pots. In the early stages of growth, the cuttings are fertigated, watered only with this dilute fertilizer solution.

Comparing the node spacing at the base of the young tree (the new growth from the cutting), its easy to see which plants have had good initial growth and which plants have struggled to grow. Close nodal spacing (measured in fractions of an inch) will result in slower growing trees, while longer nodal spacing will result in faster growing more productive trees.

Whether you use a dilute Organic Fertilizer or a dilute Mineral Fertilizer the newly rooted cuttings and young plants should be provided all the balanced nutrients that they need for early vegetative growth.

Pete types Close nodal spacing (measured in fractions of inches) will result in slower growing trees, while longer nodal spacing will result in faster growing more productive trees.

There are exceptions like Negretta in our yard with natural close nodal spacing and therefor slower growing but a
tremendous producer as i have shown over the years.

Could not agree more Pete.

Martin,
Thanks for commenting.
There are always exceptions to nodal spacing distances based on the particular cultivar, but fertigation will work for every fig cutting regardless of the specific growth habits of that cultivar.


WillsC,
Thanks for commenting.

I'm still new to this but I cupped up in 2 parts MG pearlite and 1 part MG seed starting mix then went to 50/50 MG pearlite and MG potting mix for the 1 gal and they are growing great. Ive been alternating watering with weak MG soln and 'great white' mycorrhizae.

I agree but with one exception, swelling figs require more potassium for the fruits, so they may not require much while fruiting, potassium will help encourage quality, size and productivity.

Great topic Pete! 
This is timely information for me since I just got some nice RDB cuttings that I really want see succeed.
So, I picked up some "MG quick start" 4-12-4 that according to the label promotes vigorous root growth and reduce transplant shock.   However it calls for 1 capful /2 gallons.  The capful is about 80mm.  I was going to add to the water for perlite rooting mix.
Wonder if this is too strong a solution or maybe I should wait for when transplanting?
Thanks

Phil,
Thanks for commenting and sharing your info.
I believe that there is substantial anecdotal evidence out there to corroborate by opening statement and your observations, including the Basic Plant Science. I've been gardening for decades and providing diluted fertilizer to seedlings and young potted plants has always been a standard procedure that I learned from other gardeners. I just used the same procedures on fig cuttings and am posting my observations. Others should try it with one cutting to see for themselves.


Chivas,
Thanks for commenting.
I'm in complete agreement about Potassium and its importance to fig production. My statement about fertigation is directed more to getting cuttings off to a good start. You may remember that I use Espoma-Tone Organic fertilizers in addition to the Miracle Grow for older Fig Trees to provide for balanced nutrients and beneficial soil microbes.


Pino,
Thanks and thanks for sharing your info.
The Miracle Gro Quick Start doesn't provide Guaranteed Micro Nutrients only the published Guaranteed NPK values. Whatever you use please read the labels, they should provide a balanced NPK and all the micro nutrients, including Magnesium. Miracle Gro All purpose doesn't include Magnesium or Calcium, but I add Epsom Salts (Magnesium) and Calcium is provided in most potting mixes (as Limestone or gypsum).
  
Also what ever is used it should be 1/3 to 1/4 the normal recommended maintenance dose, and never more than 1/2 the normal. This dilution seems to be a standard dilution that is also practiced in Hydroponic Culture.

I know what you mean .
Here is Negretta for its size its the strongest producer in yard .
But as mentioned its an exception.

Martin,
Thanks for sharing the picture....
That Negretta looks very healthy and productive.

Your welcome Pete . ; )

Thanks Pete for opening my eyes on nutrients and MG.
Can these MG products be used for foliar feeding if required or are there better stuff for that?

Pete:

I'd agree, high fertility to size up new plants but limited nitrogen fertility to produce fruit. The statement in next to last paragraph "longer nodal spacing will result in faster growing more productive trees" is somewhat misleading and contradictory to lowering nitrogen to encourage fruiting.

Pino,
Yes, I use the MG All Purpose for foliar feeding and have recommended it here. Its a mineral based product and is relatively free of byproducts. I use it at 1/2 or 1 teaspoon / gallon of water depending on how delicate the plant. For figs I use it at 1 teaspoon / gallon for foliar feeding.
If you have pale leaves, a good use for MG as Foliar feed is to test if a plant is actually nutrient deficient. If its a nutrient deficiency the leaves will green up in days.


Steve,
Thanks for commenting.
I believe my statement was quantified by the use of "cuttings" and "young tree",  but I can see where the one sentence may be taken out of context.
I'm not referring to Fig producing trees, but even fig producing trees need proper fertilization and nutrients...<and can benefit from fertigation.>

<edit>

Pete:

Agreed and thanks for bringing up the topic. So how or when do you switch from growth to fruiting? How long in your experience does it take to slow down a fast growing young plant in order to encourage fruiting? When would you expect fruit on a potted plant, second year from a cutting?

I had a nitrogen retentive soil once that took forever with in ground trees. Get them going and they won't quit. In pots or even with my current soil the plant can be slowed quickly.

Steve,
You're welcome.

I'm new to figs, but have been experimenting and following forum advise for the past 2 years. The Miracle Gro is stopped at the end of July. But I also use Espoma Garden-Tone at 1/2 recommended application for insoluble and long term fertilization. I dont specifically look to encourage fruiting, most trees will produce a fig at each leaf node, I usually pinch the ones that appear after July 1.

In ground I use Espoma and MG once in the early spring (bud break) and use Compost and Mulch the rest of the season.

<edit> By stopping the MG Liquid fertilization the NPK ratio actually changes, Decreasing N and increasing the K. This Year I will be providing continual MG fertigation to a few bearing fig trees and observe their growth.

Does fertilizer really do much for figs?  I mean they'll grow out of cracks in rocks.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOfStjyrkPM

I can see them needing rock dust though.

Hi Ascpete,
Be it a mature tree or a young rooted cutting, IMO they all require fertilization .
Now each one will do as he wants.
Here with my cold winters coming when they want, I must take everything I can, and get the trees productive as much as I can.
If I mess up a "good" year, the next one might just kill the tree to the ground . So I use fertilization to speed up the trees.

For me, it is better to get the tree bigger and prune, rather than keeping the tree small and not pruning.
For me, I prefer having two medium trees rather than one extra big .
So I fertilize well until August, and then I stop fertilizing.
I water my trees every two or three days when possible ie most of the time.

For the young rooted cuttings, I fertilize as well, as I think that rooting a cutting is a race against problems - insects attacking the roots, cutting not tacking enough water, new roots replacing the roted ones...
That is too the reason I'm rooting direct in compost ...
I'm using mineral balls of fertilizer that I put in the water, and mix well. I let that water settle down for a day or two .

This is a great thread!  In addition to all the good info, I learned a new word today - fertigation!

This good thread for many newer members !
I personally doucment with dated pictures when the figs first come out and have good idea
when they will ripen at about half way point they do not get fertilizer anymore .
But
what i also have been doing once figs are spent they get 1 shot of fertilizer.
Yes im the oddball
But we are all different. 

Come to the Darkside.   ; )

I am trying potassium sulfate this year, I tried it a couple times last year, you can top dress, mix it with your soil or put it in water and feed.  Right now I am top dressing with blood and bone meal so we will see how it goes, I am thinking that it will be be enough to top dress, although it is water soluble and could potentially leach quickly so I will have to keep an eye out on it.

Thearabicstudent,
Thanks for commenting,
Although they are growing out of cracks, Nature provides the fertilization, otherwise they would not have survived. Seeds were probably deposited in bird guano, the mineral content of the stone, the nutrient rich runoff (which probably also has more guano) has resulted in a growing plant. BTW Miracle Gro and similar fertilizers are nothing more than rock dust... ; ) 


Jdsfrance,
Thanks for commenting and sharing your info.


Phil,
Thanks.
http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=6409703 an earlier topic on fertigation...

GeneDaniels,
I personally don't add individual NPK nutrients other than to insure that there is a "balanced" supply readily available for the growing plants.


Martin,
Actually I've saved some of your documented info, which is part of the basis for my fertilization schedules... Miracle Gro.

I'm latching to this thread. Thank you for the great information.

I have also learned a lot, good topic! I've been using quarter strength foliage pro, gonna step it up to half after they leave quart pots into gallons next week. Foliar feedings seem to help the slow rooters as well.