Just saw the update Pete.Thanks.  The results can be seen.  The tree at least doubled in size, but also added wood to the stem, which looks to be about 1" across, above the soil-line.

I'm going to use the Espoma products for at least two more seasons.  So far, even with the lousy weather, all my trees are still dark green, show no, or, very little rust, and have grown nicely.  Leaves seem to be thicker textured, and more resistant to rust this year.  I think the added iron might have something to do with it.  The next few seasons will give me a better feel for the 2013 fertilizer substitution. 

I stopped all ferts. back in mid-July.  I would say within the next month, it's all over for 2013 season. Good riddance! The "Foliage-Pro" was great, but the Espoma stays in the medium longer and has other added nutrients formulated into it, and I think the quality of the growth was much better than with the straight "Foliage Pro".

This season was so bad, that this is the first year since 2007 that my work-horse, "Atreano" never set any figs!  I also lost a 6 ft. "Red Italian"....and the rest of my trees were still too young to bear figs, or, I pinched them off.  I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the Winter isn't as bad as the past Spring. 

(Note to Forum Members:  All my fig trees are containerized).


Frank

Great article, if I could read it, LOL

Chivas,
The PDF document lists most of the necessary macro and micro nutrients, it also notes the importance of Calcium, Magnesium and Iron in relatively larger quantities. The trees are in ground in alkaline soil so all the micro nutrients may not be necessary in the fertilizer.
Thanks for posting this document it makes for very interesting reading, especially the plant material analysis.

IMO, the first feeding in spring should be the one with the highest nitrogen ratio with iron to get the new leaves off to a good start and I combine liquid and organic solid fertilizer for balanced nutrients. The PDF also notes that feeding the soil microbes before the actual Fig tree is also beneficial to plant growth, for years I have done a one time application of Espoma-tone products and Dolemite Limestone to my garden in early spring to give the soil microbes a boost and have noticed the positive difference.
I'm still in the process of formulating a fertilizer schedule for older trees in containers, but it will definitely include a small dose of iron supplement. My main ingredients will be Espoma Garden-Tone (3-4-4), Dolemite Limestone (Calcium and Magnesium), Ironite and Miracle Grow General purpose Fertilizer (24-8-16 for the first month only).


Danny,
I don't read spanish either, but Google translator does a good job.
The Introduction,

frank, i heard about getting dark green leaves, so i tried that iron stuff in my 5-1-1. i saw no results. will you please tell me how much you used?

i think i sprinkled it on at the package directions, more or less.

Hi Susie:

I used the Espoma, in the late Spring, as the leaves developed.   I also followed package recommendations.  Pete used Ironite, I used "Espoma, Iron-Tone", in conjunction with diluted tonic of Miracle-Gro, All-Purpose plant food, 24-8-16 formula, once a month. 

Understand that "Ironite" is a supplement, Espoma, Iron-Tone is a complete organic fertilizer product.  Pete, I think, also uses a modified, 5:1:1 mix with the addition of limestone to counteract acidity.  Correct me if I'm wrong Pete....thanks.

It may be too late in the season for you to see results with your trees.  Of course, correct culture is also a requisite.


Frank

Susie,
Ironite is an Iron and Mineral (Micro nutrients) supplement that's available at the usual national chain stores. It is added in very small quantities and the Iron is 50% water soluble. In my case results were seen in less than 3 weeks from day of application as documented in the previous posted pictures.


BTW, one of the reasons why I document the measured amounts is that the results can be repeated anywhere and at anytime, to either dispute or endorse my results.

Frank,
You are correct, and I believe Susie has my 5-1-1-1 potting mix recipe.

thanks frank, n thanks pete.  yeah pete, i'm using yours.

turns out i bot iron tone.  i didn't even know there was more than one product.  the bag doesn't actually say it's a complete fertilizer. i didn't know it was, but if you say so, i'll use it like that. i guess it's too late in the season to use it, but i'll start it in spring.

guess i'll keep using 9-3 -6 as that's the same ratio as that MG stuff. i switched to this cause it's got those cool micronutrients.

hey pete, what do you think about eliminating the peat from 5-1-1 totally, so it lasts for years?

Susie:

Are you growing in containers?  If you are, you will need to root prune your trees every 3-5 years, and it's good practice/culture to change out the growing medium for a fresh batch when replanting the tree(s).  No mediums with any organic material will "last for years".  The organics will eventually break down, lose nutrient value, and, probably sour because of poor drainage.  Those growers who plant trees in containers must provide everything the trees will need to thrive.


Frank

(Thanks Pete).

thanks frank, i'm thinking if i use just bark n perlite, that will last for 4 years so i don't need to change soil til i gotta root prune. peat will be icky slop long before that.
i dont think any peat based mix can last more than a year or two without needing to be changed.

what do you think?

Susie,
The only peat-less mixes that have heard of either uses Coconut Coir or is the 5-1-1 gritty mix, I have not used coir enough and have never used the gritty mix so I can't answer your question. What I can say is that as you reduce the peat, the mix drains faster and retains less moisture, so it needs to be watered more often.

<Edit> Since this is only my 2nd Year growing figs in containers, I have't had enough experience with the 5-1-1 mix to comment on its longevity, but last years mix is still draining and working properly this season (2 years).

Good Luck.

Susie:

It would be irresponsible for me to comment.  I have no experiences using Perlite, and bark.  If I were to do this, I would plant just one tree into this medium, and see how the tree performs.  My gut tells me that the Perlite and bark combo will have very little water retention, unless the bark is soft and spongy, and next to zero in nutrients.  So whatever is needed by the tree, will have come from your watering solutions, tonics, etc.

Frank

thanks guys. i think i'll try one tree and see, justfor fun. otherwise, i gotta change the mix every 2 years.i'm lazy.

how often do you guys change your mix?

I feed my figs inGround with the following.  4 lbs of azomite, 4 lbs of blood Meal, 4 lbs of Bone Meal 4 lbs of Worm Casting.  You will not believe you eyes.  Feed only once in the spring.

I hope Monserrat has no problem with me posting this, if he does I will gladly take out the parts from his book.

I was reading Pons Book and I saw what they are putting on in several areas in Spain.  I prefer Organic Fertilizers just as a personal choice and would like to be able to use similar formulas with readily available organic fertilizers for me.  I was hoping for some input on what I had worked out, it may need some tweaking but I am feeling pretty good about it right now.
One thing is that he recommends is that you put manure in the field every year to maintain healthy soil, microbes and structure etc.

This is what they need in Mallorca, at his farm so it may not be what I need, and he states that foliage and soil analysis is needed to be sure.  That being said it is a starting point for me.

According to what I have read with organics, blood meal typically needs 4-8 weeks to release N, bone meal needs 8-12 weeks and kelp can take anywhere from 2-6 weeks  (i am not sure about this one).  Since I believe I need more potassium with a heavier load of fruit, as I do for cucumbers, tomatoes and peppers, I am opting to try adding Potassium Chloride or Sulfate instead of the kelp meal.  I have included different recipes as when I broke it down what they are doing in Mallorca, they are having trees 4 x 4 metres.  In the pot of course is different so I will have to make adjustments over the course of time I am sure.  Since either source of Potassium is fairly quick release I am also thinking to not put it in a dry mix and instead use smaller quantities and use it with the weekly fish fertilizer so I can get a more controlled application of potassium, although I will have to test it out and see how it works.  For ones in the pots I will have to add mychroaziae sp.  to make sure the materials can be broken down and re inoculated my in ground trees every other year or maybe never depending on how they look. 

I am also thinking to only do one application of Lime a year and instead let the gypsum take its place as it is a faster acting calcium which I believe I also need as some varieties are getting black spots all over the fruit and leaves are showing deficiencies.  I am hoping to send off some leaves for analysis and see if they fall in the ranges of what Pons recommends and what they found in Valencia, with these results I can better adjust my fertilizer and also see how effective my formula works.  I did put in the full amount per year of a 2 x 2 metre tree and then broke that down into 3 seperate applications, the first month may change but not much else I don't think.

All comments/suggestions are welcome and encouraged please.