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Fig propagation 2017, simple method that works

Greetings fellow fig enthusiasts!  I wanted to share my simple methods of fig propagation for the newbie or for the pro who is on the go and doesn't have have time to baby figs in humidity domes and grow lights etc.  I have tried this method for about 3 seasons now and have modified my approach here and there, be warned there is nothing fancy to see here lol.  This method only works well in early spring/summer because it's all done outdoors, so this may not be an option for some.

Step 1 is optional but I believe one should have a similar approach.  I soaked my dormant cuttings for 48-72 hours in room temperature water using cheap pans which can be found at the local grocery store.  I only do this to get the little root bumps to appear and to rehydrate cuttings which have been sitting in my crisper all winter.

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This next step is vital, I waxed the ends of my cuttings by simply lighting a big candle that is in a glass container and dip the ends in.  I also used liquid electric tape on some cuttings, looks nice but I like the wax a little better.  You can get creative here and even get beeswax from your local craft store and melt it down and use it.  The purpose is obvious, we want to conserve all moisture in the cutting, all moisture that escaped increases the likelihood for drying out.  I have only lost cuttings due to drying out, never because of excess humidity.
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The next step is to mix coco choir with mushroom compost that has broken down well.  I mixed mine about 70% compost with about 30% coir, but I have also done this with a mixture of sand and compost.  I used coir this year because it has worked well with other projects.  So use sand and compost or mix some coir or even your own special mix.  You want to conserve moisture by also allowing drainage so water doesn't puddle in the container.  I use 1 gallon nursery pots but you can use grow bags, or whatever you have on hand.
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I always make sure I have at least 3-4 nodes per cutting, for long cuttings I insert into the pot at a diagonal, each cutting should be no more then 6 inches or so, some much shorter.  The point at inserting diagonally is that many of them were too long to lay down flat, I want to completely cover the cutting.  In previous years I have allowed up to 5 inches of cutting to stand out of the pot but I lost some to drying out so this year I am completely covering the cutting.  
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I leave about 2 inches of soil off the top when I first insert the cutting and then I just throw my mixture on top to completely cover the cutting.    IMG_2612.JPG 
Next I label my cuttings and place them in the shade, you could even put them in total shade, my area gets a little sunlight in the later part of the day.  I water my pots every day to every other day.  You could potentially go every three days.  (Any green that you see in my pots is due to grain seed falling in my mixture, those will be removed but I want a home for them first), so the pic you see below has no fig growth yet.
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These are some Hardy Chicago cuttings from last year, this method works well for me in my humid area in the south. IMG_2610.JPG 
Here are some Stella cuttings done last year:
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So yeah, if you have expensive and rare cuttings this may not work out for you so don't think I am saying this is the absolute best method, but it works for me.  If you live in the south and have cuttings that you want to start but don't have time to baby them and spend loads of cash, try this out maybe on your brown turkey or celeste first and see how it goes.  I have had very good success rooting all cold hardy varieties this way, I don't grow figs for pots by the way, the plan for all my propagation is for in ground.  I have even started cuttings directly in their planting spot before and had some success without any watering but  I would only recommend doing that if you are going to water from time to time.  Take care everyone! Thanks for viewing.  

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I should have said that after I have solid growth I back off on the watering so that my plants can go up to a couple weeks without water, that may be important for some.  So start out strong but back off gradually.

Hope this can help someone at least get an idea of what they could try.

I myself have switched to grafting the figs. I have about a 95% success rate, and one can get 2 to 3 scion pieces from one cutting, so even with a 50% success rate you will get at least one plant from every cutting. If you wish, later you can air layer  plant on it's own roots.

Drew are all your figs potted?

  • aaa

Hi Drew
can you tell us when/ what part of the season you do your grafting,
im not in the US
so could you prase it by saying,   1st week in spring,  middle of autum, or whatever it may be.
rootstock and cutting dormant ?
or rootstock awake, cutting dormant.?
also what method do you use?

Nice Method Tenneseefig 
Question: you said the cuttings had been sitting in the crisper for a while so needed to be rehydrated by soaking. Did they sit around because you did not get around to preparing them? ie can you skip the rehydration step if you start out with a fresh dormant cutting ?

Thanks

SS  

SimonS, it did take me a while to get around to them but also I wanted to make sure that I had warm weather on my side.  Therefore I waited until spring.  You could skip this step BUT I know of others who soak their cuttings just to get the little root bumps.  I soaked mine for both reasons.

We multiply fig plants bt tissue culture process in our laboratory

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