From Twigs to Figs in 120 Days: Rich's Propagation Method

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nycfig

Registered:1380768118
Posts: 886

Posted 1418928617	Reply with quote #101

I've been using a modified version of Rich's method that seems to be working well right now. Here's what I've found so far: Quote: Originally Posted by tylerj I have noticed that since sifting the perlite to remove the small particles the cups do not retain much moisture at all compared to before. The cups weigh half as much as the others. I noticed that if you put a cutting in the cup and fill with unsifted perlite from the bag and water it that all the fine particles/dust will settle on the bottom half of the cup which can result in the bottom of the cutting rotting. So I would either sift the perlite... or rinse it separately before putting in the cups. Rich must have a higher grade perlite than what I have available here :( Quote: Originally Posted by RichinNJ Perlite is from Home Depot. I scoop it out of the bag, put it in a bucket, add water, mix, and put it in the cups. Thats it nothing else. All perlite is definitely not created equal. I went back and forth for quite a while after killing enough cuttings and decided that sifted perlite is better for the cutting. Buy a piece of 1/8" hardware cloth from eBay and make a sifter. Alternatively, Google 'Garden Sieve' or 'Gold Sieve' to find a sifter that's already made. It sounds like Rich is rinsing his perlite (Please correct me if I'm wrong, Rich) in a bucket and all the dust and smaller particles are falling to the bottom. I also use the perlite from HD and always had smaller particles jamming the bottom of the cups after a few waterings. Now I sift. You are correct, sifted perlite will not hold as much water as non-sifted; there is much less surface area. I've found there are other factors that will also contribute such as heat and light. If more moisture is what you desire than you have to water more (See Rich's directions) or add some peat to the perlite. I use Rafael's (rafaelissimmo) 2/3 sifted perlite and 1/3 peat. Still dialing it in a little but it's working out pretty good for me. You have to play around and find what works best for you. Other things I've found: I'm using 1 heating mat split between the chamber and tray. The probe from the thermostat was in a cup in the chamber. The cuttings outside of the chamber cooked because it took longer for the cuttings in the chamber to come up to the set temperature. Probe from the thermostat is now in a cup on the tray. Probe is pushed down to about an inch above the bottom of the cup and everything is in balance. I'm pretty sure that MG fertilizer kills cuttings, at least it seems that way here. I wait until the cutting is growing in some soil before using now. Canna Aqua Vega works. Small moisture droplets on the side of the cup doesn't mean the cutting has enough water. It's happened to me 3 times already where I saw the tiny droplets on the side of the cup and did not water. The cutting died and when pouring the media out of the cup found it to be bone dry. After killing more than my share of cuttings by overwatering I probably became a little gun shy. I water by weight now. __________________ Danny NYC Z7a It's all about the figs! Facebook: NYCfigs Buying Fig Trees and Cuttings From the Internet

cis4elk

Registered:1347840383
Posts: 1,719

Posted 1418930124	Reply with quote #102

Quote: I water by weight now. I don't use Rich's method, but I did start using my scale last season when watering starts that are in that beginning fragile stage. I have to say I am a fan of the scale. When the cuttings look happy and are actively growing nice roots, write the weight on the cup. Over time the weight will go up, but it is a very easy and effective way of not killing or setting back sensitive young plants by over-watering. We went on vacation for a week last year, I had the neighbor lady across the street water my cuttings for me while I was gone. She knows nothing about this type of thing, but she did fine watering them by weight(with a spay bottle) and I came to thriving little plants instead of dead or suffering plants. If you have a good number of plants, weighing them all may not be practical however. __________________ Calvin Littleton,CO z5/6 Wants List: For everyone to clean-up after themselves and co-exist peacefully. Let's think more about the future of our planet and less about ourselves. :)

brettjm

Registered:1398901785
Posts: 215

Posted 1418933167	Reply with quote #103

I don't doubt your method or results Rich, only my ability to duplicate it effectively. Haha I don't have the exact setup, just as close as I can get with the materials I have on hand. I do sift my perlite to some extent...found that a standard issue spaghetti colander works relatively well to remove the dust and smallest pieces. As for the fertilizer...the first couple cuttings that I deemed worthy of moving out of the humidity chamber died quickly after watering with fertilizer included(its a liquid rooting forumula diluted to about 1/2 strength of what was directed). After that, the next few I deemed ready to move up...I just watered them...no fertilizer. They still croaked on me all the same. As for setting everything up... About 1/3 of my cuttings were started in perlite, the other 2/3 were started in sphagnum, and moved to perlite once they rooted. The cuttings started in perlite had all rooted at some point (when I dumped them all out yesterday to examine them...I'd seen no activity since I started them several weeks ago), but all roots were very very short, and brown/rotted on the end, like they crapped out immediately after forming. Meanwhile, those started in sphagnum and moved to perlite did relatively well at first. Many of them developed good strong root systems. However, upon removing them from the humidity bin and watering them for the first time...it was like a death sentence, fertilizer or not. I want to reiterate that I'm not trying to be critical...more just worried about my little cuttings and what I'm missing in this process. __________________ In GA, Zone 7b/8a Wish list: more space to put in figs.

eboone

Registered:1378418906
Posts: 1,101

Posted 1418941390	Reply with quote #104

brettjm, How did you remove them from the humidity chamber? They need to be very slowly acclimated to a drier air environment or the leaves dry out ( the roots are not yet able to support them with enough water I think ). I found that out last year, my first year rooting figs. Only after I started very slowly, over about 10 days, opening the lid a bit more every two days, did my cuttings survive. I had one chamber for rooting, another for transitioning the successful rooted cuttings. The worst situation was when I got leaves well before the roots - those were very hard to transition. __________________ Ed Zone 6A - Southwest PA --------------------------- Short wish list: CDDG, LSU Red, Dark Greek (Navid), Col Littman's Black Cross. And any cold hardy early fig.

brianm

Registered:1389664758
Posts: 971

Posted 1418945567	Reply with quote #105

I love this thread,so many ways to rooting. I use many methods but a really easy method is sticking cutting directly in one gallon with pro-mix soil. I then cover the cutting with clear plastic bag and set in the shade or in the house. I will let them stay this way for around a month. I do air them out once in a while and make sure the soil is damp not wet. After i see nice foliage and after i checked for roots i will open bag up a little and set outside. After a few days i will remove bag and keep in shade to acclimate. __________________ Wish list: Galicia Negra,UC Davis Black Ischia, Maltese Raven

RichinNJ

Registered:1374784282
Posts: 1,687

Posted 1418948848 · Edited	Reply with quote #106

Quote: Originally Posted by brettjm I don't doubt your method or results Rich, only my ability to duplicate it effectively. Haha I don't have the exact setup, just as close as I can get with the materials I have on hand. I do sift my perlite to some extent...found that a standard issue spaghetti colander works relatively well to remove the dust and smallest pieces. As for the fertilizer...the first couple cuttings that I deemed worthy of moving out of the humidity chamber died quickly after watering with fertilizer included(its a liquid rooting forumula diluted to about 1/2 strength of what was directed). After that, the next few I deemed ready to move up...I just watered them...no fertilizer. They still croaked on me all the same. As for setting everything up... About 1/3 of my cuttings were started in perlite, the other 2/3 were started in sphagnum, and moved to perlite once they rooted. The cuttings started in perlite had all rooted at some point (when I dumped them all out yesterday to examine them...I'd seen no activity since I started them several weeks ago), but all roots were very very short, and brown/rotted on the end, like they crapped out immediately after forming. Meanwhile, those started in sphagnum and moved to perlite did relatively well at first. Many of them developed good strong root systems. However, upon removing them from the humidity bin and watering them for the first time...it was like a death sentence, fertilizer or not. I want to reiterate that I'm not trying to be critical...more just worried about my little cuttings and what I'm missing in this process. I really cannot help here since there seems to have been several deviations from the directions. My reccomendation is that you start over. Follow the direction exactly as is in the post. Loosing cuttings is saddening. While I was developing this method I lost some beautiful VdB cuttings from Frozen Joe. Fortunately I was able to get one to grow and it was about 3 feet tall and thriving at the end of the summer.

saxonfig

Registered:1258080612
Posts: 1,370

Posted 1418967421 · Edited	Reply with quote #107

Rich. Very nice results. I've been rooting my cuttings in sphagnum moss & then transferring them to a pre-wetted soil mix high in perlite. Been fairly successful with this but it has been a delicate process requiring some delicate balancing and finesse. I like the straightforwardness and seeming simplicity of what you've outlined here. I have one main question though. I've never used any hydroponic solutions so I don't know much at all about them. Do you have any theories on how the hydro solution might be conditioning the roots? I'm guessing this has to be a major factor in being able to get away with using so much water through the entire process. Granted, the perlite is the other major contributor since water runs right through it (generally speaking). I'm asking this because when rooting cuttings with the method I've been using, over watering is the #1 cause of losing the cuttings. Obviously a soil mixture is going to retain more water and be more prone to cause problems if too much water is added. But even when I might get my plants to the point of transferring to some sort of soil mix, if I watered as much as you do at the same point, I'm pretty sure they'd croak (technical term there). So I'm just positing that there is more going on here than just good draining perlite. I'm guessing that the hydro solution is more of a positive contributor here to the success than it may be getting credit for. What do you think? __________________ Fig Well And Prosper! Bill - SW KY. Zone 6b. 36.5N I'm fruitnut on ebay.

saxonfig

Registered:1258080612
Posts: 1,370

Posted 1418968166	Reply with quote #108

Oh, I must have missed this important point first read around - You water sparingly while they are in the humid chamber. Then water 2X a day once they are out on the trays - Got it. It's taken a little time for my mind to warm up to it, but I'm starting to like it a bit more now ;) . __________________ Fig Well And Prosper! Bill - SW KY. Zone 6b. 36.5N I'm fruitnut on ebay.

dirtguy50

Registered:1398135169
Posts: 256

Posted 1418968969	Reply with quote #109

Bill, I interpreted the watering after the cuttings were removed from the humidity chamber as watering only one time a day. One day with the hydroponic solution and then two days with just water, all with the turkey baster. I hope Rich will chime in tomorrow and spell it out. Time for bed. Sleepy. __________________ No, your other left! Zone 6b, Keith in SW Wish List: Violette de Bordeaux & Marsilles Black VS

RichinNJ

Registered:1374784282
Posts: 1,687

Posted 1418988136 · Edited	Reply with quote #110

Quote: Originally Posted by saxonfig Oh, I must have missed this important point first read around - You water sparingly while they are in the humid chamber. Then water 2X a day once they are out on the trays - Got it. It's taken a little time for my mind to warm up to it, but I'm starting to like it a bit more now ;) . Yes I water very little in the chamber. Since the lid is always on there the water stays in the chamber however like Danny does I water by weight. I'm able to feel how heavy the cups are and this how I know it's ready to water. Using a scale is a great idea Danny and Calvin.

RichinNJ

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Posts: 1,687

Posted 1418988626 · Edited	Reply with quote #111

Quote: Originally Posted by dirtguy50 Bill, I interpreted the watering after the cuttings were removed from the humidity chamber as watering only one time a day. One day with the hydroponic solution and then two days with just water, all with the turkey baster. I hope Rich will chime in tomorrow and spell it out. Time for bed. Sleepy. I used a baster last year so I could measure the water being put on the plants. This year I'm using a pump sprayer with a watering tip that holds1.5 gallons. I also have installed drains in my catch pans. I'm able to water the plants more quickly and I can " eyeball" the necessary amount of solution based on my experience from last year. Our basement is 65-75f all day. We have steam heat pipes running all over the place down there and the plants are on the heat mat too. Google "Dutch Bucket" hydroponics. They flood plants many times a day when using perlite or other media.

dirtguy50

Registered:1398135169
Posts: 256

Posted 1419009064 · Edited	Reply with quote #112

Rich, this is a Carini cutting received and started Nov 30th in the humidity chamber. It is sprouting leaves nicely but no roots are showing on the outside or bottom of the cup. Is this okay in your opinion, or should I be seeing roots by now? Or, am I overthinking this and just leave it alone and let it grow. A celeste is doing similar but nice yellow roots are showing at the bottom of the cup. Thanks Rich. __________________ No, your other left! Zone 6b, Keith in SW Wish List: Violette de Bordeaux & Marsilles Black VS

RichinNJ

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Posts: 1,687

Posted 1419024708	Reply with quote #113

Quote: Originally Posted by dirtguy50 Rich, this is a Carini cutting received and started Nov 30th in the humidity chamber. It is sprouting leaves nicely but no roots are showing on the outside or bottom of the cup. Is this okay in your opinion, or should I be seeing roots by now? Or, am I overthinking this and just leave it alone and let it grow. A celeste is doing similar but nice yellow roots are showing at the bottom of the cup. Thanks Rich. It's been my experience that if you do not see roots those leaves will die quickly and take a long time to return. Sometimes the leaves on cuttings in chamber will get discolored and misshapen but if you have bottom heat the roots will come. Without roots the leaves won't make it.

dirtguy50

Registered:1398135169
Posts: 256

Posted 1419094081	Reply with quote #114

Thanks Rich. That was what I suspected so thought you would be the person to ask. Have a great weekend! __________________ No, your other left! Zone 6b, Keith in SW Wish List: Violette de Bordeaux & Marsilles Black VS

fluffybunny

Registered:1358733963
Posts: 28

Posted 1419277173	Reply with quote #115

If for some reason someone left the cuttings too long in the humidity container, how would one go about hardening off the cuttings to bring them out of the container. Thanks Mike __________________ Mike - zone 5b West Lincoln, Ontario, Canada

RichinNJ

Registered:1374784282
Posts: 1,687

Posted 1419280127	Reply with quote #116

Quote: Originally Posted by fluffybunny If for some reason someone left the cuttings too long in the humidity container, how would one go about hardening off the cuttings to bring them out of the container. Thanks Mike Hi "fluffybunny" :) I don't harden off cuttings much. If there are roots and leaves I take them out of the chamber and put them on an aluminum tray on the heat mat. If they don't droop or wilt within a couple hours then they are ok. If they do I put them back in the chamber for a day and try again. I typically do this on the weekends because I have the time to fuss over the things.

luigiwu

Registered:1410096733
Posts: 87

Posted 1419863934 · Edited	Reply with quote #117

Rich, I remember you said you grew these indoors from Nov-April - so approx 6 months. I'm in NYC and we don't plant out until around beginning-mid May so it'll be around 5 months indoors for me... I'm a little worried about providing enough light to keep them healthy all that time. I will only have 4 bulbs of T8 32watt Daylight Deluxe on these. What type of bulb did you use? Also, we set our heater thermostat to pretty low at night - 62 degrees. Is that too low for an ambient temperature when they are let out of their chambers? If so maybe I'll see what the basement temp is near the furnace. Thanks! __________________ New to figs! Container gardening in NY, Zone 7 Wishlist: Ronde de Bordeaux \| Violet de Bordeaux \| Negronne \| Valle Negra

coop951

Registered:1217167527
Posts: 597

Posted 1419867613 · Edited	Reply with quote #118

Rich Great thread Lungi and other newbies, Resist that urge to start your cuttings early. Wait a couple of months until it is closer to the time that you can bring them outside. If your plants do make it the transitions has to be more gradual,and it is a real hassle to keep them going inside Been there, done that __________________ Coop Northern NJ Zone 7a

RichinNJ

Registered:1374784282
Posts: 1,687

Posted 1419867644	Reply with quote #119

Quote: Originally Posted by luigiwu Rich, Your last pictures with all the lush leaves, how long was that from the time of starting the cutting? I'm in NYC and we don't plant out until around beginning-mid May. I will only have 4 bulbs of T8 32watt Daylight Deluxe on these. Will it be enough to keep them healthy a whole five months? We set our heater thermostat to pretty low at night - 62 degrees. Is that too low for an ambient temperature when they are let out of their chambers? If so maybe I'll see what the basement temp is near the furnace. Thanks! Post #99 pic was around 55 days I think. I use a similar light. See my directions. I kept them under it until April. last year I cant comment on temps since we have steam heat and the basement is in mid 70's during the day and cools down at night but not by much.

RichinNJ

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Posts: 1,687

Posted 1419896691 · Edited	Reply with quote #120

Quote: Originally Posted by chucklikestofish Quote: Originally Posted by tylerj Quote: Originally Posted by RichinNJ Quote: Originally Posted by tylerj I use 100% perlite too Rich. I find its great for preventing over watering of the cutting. So you have obviously no issues with the roots being exposed to light?? they do fine obviously?? I have been wrapping my cups with tin foil as soon as I see roots hit the cup wall but if its not needed I might skip that. Tyler I monitor root grow daily and I have not seen any issues that I'm aware of caused by them being exposed to light. Good off with the foil... it just causes the cups to tip over easier anyways lol... Here are some cuttings I started Oct. 10th... 18 days ago (I did use liquid hormone on them though) Tyler ~how often and how much do you water these in this system ??thanks,~ 2x a day I have been flooding them with Canna Aqua Vega.

RichinNJ

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Posts: 1,687

Posted 1419905121 · Edited	Reply with quote #121

Many grow shops carry it. My figs grow like crazy all winter using it.

timmy2green

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Posts: 196

Posted 1420431351 · Edited	Reply with quote #122

Rich, do you use water straight from the tap? Thanks __________________ Saratoga, NY - Zone 5a Wish List: Sbayi, Poona, Panevino Dark, Lebanese Red, Sumaki, Raspberry Latte, Negretta, Italian 258, De La Reina MP.

RichinNJ

Registered:1374784282
Posts: 1,687

Posted 1420455017	Reply with quote #123

Quote: Originally Posted by timmy2green Rich, do you use water straight from the tap? Thanks I keep a couple gallon containers full of,water that have sat for a day or two before using it.

dirtguy50

Registered:1398135169
Posts: 256

Posted 1420468709 · Edited	Reply with quote #124

Happy New Year Rich! Here is a pic of a celeste start in the humidity chamber since 11-28-14 that I would like your comment about. They are starting to yellow. I haven't used any hydroponics solution yet and curious if you thing this looks like lack of nutrients or something else. Thanks for all your help in this thread. __________________ No, your other left! Zone 6b, Keith in SW Wish List: Violette de Bordeaux & Marsilles Black VS

RichinNJ

Registered:1374784282
Posts: 1,687

Posted 1420476516	Reply with quote #125

Quote: Originally Posted by dirtguy50 Happy New Year Rich! Here is a pic of a celeste start in the humidity chamber since 11-28-14 that I would like your comment about. They are starting to yellow. I haven't used any hydroponics solution yet and curious if you thing this looks like lack of nutrients or something else. Thanks for all your help in this thread. There are no nutrients in perlite. If that were mine I would have started feeding with Canna the same day I took it out of the chamber

dirtguy50

Registered:1398135169
Posts: 256

Posted 1420477086	Reply with quote #126

It's still in the chamber and hasn't had any nutrients added. There are visible roots and was thinking about taking them out and putting them directly on a heat map and start feeding them. What do you think? And, are you giving them the Canna every day when they are taken out of the chamber? Thank you Rich. __________________ No, your other left! Zone 6b, Keith in SW Wish List: Violette de Bordeaux & Marsilles Black VS

RichinNJ

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Posts: 1,687

Posted 1420480766 · Edited	Reply with quote #127

Quote: Originally Posted by dirtguy50 It's still in the chamber and hasn't had any nutrients added. There are visible roots and was thinking about taking them out and putting them directly on a heat map and start feeding them. What do you think? And, are you giving them the Canna every day when they are taken out of the chamber? Thank you Rich. With leaves that large there will need to be a lot of roots before you take it out of the chamber. I flood all of mine in perlite at least once a day.

dirtguy50

Registered:1398135169
Posts: 256

Posted 1420481106	Reply with quote #128

Got it. Thanks. __________________ No, your other left! Zone 6b, Keith in SW Wish List: Violette de Bordeaux & Marsilles Black VS

dirtguy50

Registered:1398135169
Posts: 256

Posted 1420827636	Reply with quote #129

Howdy Rich, I hope the weather isn't too harsh out your way. Some areas have been brutal. Anyway, our two grow shops here do not carry canna aqua vega but do carry a produce from Botanicare called Pure Blend PRO grow. I looked them up but don't understand enough about aqua/hydo solutions. Have you had any experience with this product? I want to follow your instructions so thought I would run this by you. Thanks so much. __________________ No, your other left! Zone 6b, Keith in SW Wish List: Violette de Bordeaux & Marsilles Black VS

RichinNJ

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Posts: 1,687

Posted 1420827823 · Edited	Reply with quote #130

Quote: Originally Posted by dirtguy50 Howdy Rich, I hope the weather isn't too harsh out your way. Some areas have been brutal. Anyway, our two grow shops here do not carry canna aqua vega but do carry a produce from Botanicare called Pure Blend PRO grow. I looked them up but don't understand enough about aqua/hydo solutions. Have you had any experience with this product? I want to follow your instructions so thought I would run this by you. Thanks so much. You can order Canna Aqua Vega online from Amazon A&B set

dirtguy50

Registered:1398135169
Posts: 256

Posted 1420828198	Reply with quote #131

Thanks for the info. __________________ No, your other left! Zone 6b, Keith in SW Wish List: Violette de Bordeaux & Marsilles Black VS

Aaron4USA

Registered:1375832059
Posts: 2,969

Posted 1421217785	Reply with quote #132

Rich, thanks for the intro to Perlite rooting. I really like this method out of all I tried so far. It's clean, fast and almost effortless. No signs of disease, rot, mold, mildew or gnats. From cutting to this stage 24 days. This was done in our pantry @ 74 F, under sealing fluorescent lights. Off it went to 1G nursery pot and kicked to the backyard. (uhhh, poor baby!, ToughLove!!) Thank you.

RichinNJ

Registered:1374784282
Posts: 1,687

Posted 1421229339	Reply with quote #133

Quote: Originally Posted by Aaron4USA Rich, thanks for the intro to Perlite rooting. I really like this method out of all I tried so far. It's clean, fast and almost effortless. No signs of disease, rot, mold, mildew or gnats. From cutting to this stage 24 days. This was done in our pantry @ 74 F, under sealing fluorescent lights. Off it went to 1G nursery pot and kicked to the backyard. (uhhh, poor baby!, ToughLove!!) Thank you. Glad I could help.

luigiwu

Registered:1410096733
Posts: 87

Posted 1423930493 · Edited	Reply with quote #134

Can you guys verify if the lights need to be on these twigs the moment they are put into the perlite and humidity chamber? even if there are no leaves or roots? The other thing that I don't quite get is perlite - it doesn't absorb water does it? It just floats on top of water? __________________ New to figs! Container gardening in NY, Zone 7 Wishlist: Ronde de Bordeaux \| Violet de Bordeaux \| Negronne \| Valle Negra

crunbar

Registered:1421727957
Posts: 76

Posted 1424106930	Reply with quote #135

Thanks for this great thread Rich. I really admire your patience in fielding every question so generously. If you made a youtube video of this technique, I'd bet you'd get a lot of hits. Although, it might be a serious blow to the vigorous market in fig cuttings. Here's something many of us have thought: I wish I read your thread earlier. Gracious Maestro Richardo, Tim

E30

Registered:1392012854
Posts: 43

Posted 1458338228 · Edited	Reply with quote #136

Rich, I've been using your method religiously over the past year or so, success rate is super high, about 95% with 30+ cuttings. It even worked with cuttings I abused. But Ive run into a problem recently with the latest batch I bought from Harvey and I'm hoping you could shed some experience on me. One of the being an expensive galacia. I've had them in the chamber and the humidity fluctuates between the mid 60-80% range with temps hovering 70-78deg during the day now. I started them at a range of 65-75deg. One of the cuttings budded leaves the second day, and two weeks later they looked like what you see in the picture. I'm in week 7 now and the picture hasn't changed, maybe a little more budding on some and there are no visible roots. I lost a few leaves to leaving the bin closed one day but everything recovered. My temp sensor is set to 81deg at the bottom of the cup. My perlite probe temp is ~78. I am worried that the leaves are turning yellow as if it has no nutrients and I have no visible roots. Am I just being impatient? tk __________________ Wish list: Maltese, Black Malta Have: My grandpa's Abyad from Lebanon, Barada, Mission, Souadi, Makedonia, Bourjasotte Grise, Rhonde de Bordeux, St. Rita, Panache Tiger, Black Madeira, Baskinta Brown and Purple, Sals EL. Raspberry Latte, All babies :( Italian 258, Galacia Negra (Bass's)

EdFigs

Registered:1457201393
Posts: 34

Posted 1458347024

Reply with quote #137

Great info. Looking to start my first fig cuttings soon. Just need to get some cuttings.
__________________

Edgar (Dallas, Zone 8a)

Wishlist: Peter's Honey, Excel, Votata

Smyfigs

Registered:1443660141
Posts: 1,658

Posted 1458354999	Reply with quote #138

You came to the right place, Ed. Also, you'll find lots of great info here! __________________ Meg-Hardiness Zone 10a Looking for... Socorro Blk Wuhan Jolly Tiger Lamperia Preta Herschtetten St. Jean Black Ischia "The best way to show my gratitude is to accept everything, even my problems, with joy." ~ Mother Teresa "Do not pass by a man in need for you may be the hand of God to him." ~Proverbs 3:27~ "He performs wonders that cannot be fathomed, miracles that cannot be counted." ~Job 5:4

E30

Registered:1392012854
Posts: 43

Posted 1458407478	Reply with quote #139

Thanks Alan, I'm going to throw a hail marry and use a light hydroponics solution. Quote: Originally Posted by alanmercieca I think Rich was removed permanently from this forum. The problem with perlite is that it has no nutrients and eventually cuttings need nutrients. Perlite even if it has fertilizer most fertilizer is missing most of what fig trees need, missing nutrients often in compost. Looks like they have a nutrient deficiency. Your soil temperature is too low for good rooting. and as you can see in Rich's method he uses about 80 degrees Fahrenheit, I suggest 74 degrees Fahrenheit to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. That should speed up and encourage root growth. __________________ Wish list: Maltese, Black Malta Have: My grandpa's Abyad from Lebanon, Barada, Mission, Souadi, Makedonia, Bourjasotte Grise, Rhonde de Bordeux, St. Rita, Panache Tiger, Black Madeira, Baskinta Brown and Purple, Sals EL. Raspberry Latte, All babies :( Italian 258, Galacia Negra (Bass's)

jkuo

Registered:1399944767
Posts: 156

Posted 1458412456	Reply with quote #140

Using a hydroponics solution is a good idea. The cuttings can only draw on their reserves for so long before they need a source of nutrients. I start my cuttings in coir and use Canna Aqua Vega at half strength when they are newly rooted, and ramp up to full strength as they get more roots and leaves. Quote: Originally Posted by E30 I'm going to throw a hail marry and use a light hydroponics solution. __________________ Johnny - Lancaster, PA, Zone 6b Plants I'm growing: Google Doc

E30

Registered:1392012854
Posts: 43

Posted 1458878498	Reply with quote #141

jkuo, alanmercieca, Followup of what happened. I was shocked, thought I was going to throw them away. I uped my temps to over 75, added 50% hydro solution and the Rapidstart and they came back to life, actually they caught up to where they were supposed to be. The yellow leaves turned dark green and they grew 4inches of roots. I'm irrigating twice a day now. Crazy fast root growth. So temp, humidity control and water is super important to this high maintenance method. Thanks again! your help is much appreciated. If their is anything on my list you like please PM me. I'll send you a cutting. __________________ Wish list: Maltese, Black Malta Have: My grandpa's Abyad from Lebanon, Barada, Mission, Souadi, Makedonia, Bourjasotte Grise, Rhonde de Bordeux, St. Rita, Panache Tiger, Black Madeira, Baskinta Brown and Purple, Sals EL. Raspberry Latte, All babies :( Italian 258, Galacia Negra (Bass's)

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