I am curious to know if a lot of people are having this issue this year. I have about seven trees
that the fruit is becoming rubbery and then falling off. First time to experience this.  Does anyone know the cause of this?

Hi
I am having this problem with only one tree, could be cause it was not watered well but i think that some fig trees need alot more pampering (fertigation, composting moisture control) 
than others, that is  why i like heirloom local trees that show resistance to all local weather and drought.

also over fertilization can kill roots especially that 20-20-20 stuff.

Mike,

Partially agree with Elin, it is a water issue......not enough. I had the same problem with Alama, Lattarula and LSU Tiger in five gallon buckets. I watered more heavily and managed to save some figs for later in the season. I'd guess I lost 50-75% of the crop on each tree before watering more thoroughly.

try using more compost if the plant is mature -it will better the water holding ability.

Mike

I am having this issue too, in my container trees. I have tried watering extra to compensate, but it seems to be more than just water, it is happening on sips and open containers, some are fertilized, some are not, just too broad of a spectrum of possibilities, I can't figure it out.

Same boat five gallon trees

Mike,
What percentage of the fruit is falling off?  Is this year a normal fig crop or heavier than normal?

Other factors aside, maybe the tree is dropping what it won't be able to ripen, keeping only what is in balance with root health?

CONTAINERIZED TREES:

Heat stress in the root zone?  Containerized trees can really suffer from warm, overheated, roots, and when the trees get stressed, the trees abort the figs.  Root-bound conditions makes things even worse.  Development of fruit can also be arrested.  Heat stress, and not enough water at the right time will not help either.  Overheated roots stop working, so watering will not help until the roots cool off, and recover.  Trees get set back if this cycle continues.

If you have the room, try partially sinking the containerized trees into the surrounding, cool soil, and heavily mulch up the exposed sides of the containers to shield the root ball from the blazing sun and heat.  The containers should be under a thick layer of mulch.  Pine bark nuggets will work, and retain moisture.  Evaporation is a cooling process, so containers stay cooler than ambient temps. 

Fig trees love the heat and the sun but in Nature, the roots go deep into the cool soil.  Try aiming for cooler roots.  See if this helps.


Frank

I have to agree. My tree in the ground, don't hardly ever drop any fruit. However, my newer ones, specially my 4-5 y.o. peter's honey. It was loaded with brebas and new figs and I am not sure, they dropped or were stolen by rats, racoons, birds... all I know is I have very few on the trees.  as to my year old ones, I pamper them a lot, lift their containers and if they are light, I put them inside of a larger tub and soak them a while,  I noticed upon repotting them that for some reason, water finds its ways to run off without totally irrigating the plant.   They are resilient, and many still survive. Larger containers definately hold more available moisture for their roots, specially in very hot weather where evaporation is also an issue.

At what size are the figs falling off?  Early, middle, late stage?  I have several in 5 gallon sips with figs that are 1/2 way to maturity and looking healthy so far.

Thanks to everyone for the responses.

I have two in ground trees that are dropping their fruit. They are heavily mulched.

I have two that are in five gallon pots that are buried apprx 6-8 deep and heavily mulched that are dropping their fruit.

I also have three fifteen gallon pots that are not buried that are dropping their fruit.

We have not had much rain so they get pretty much the same amount of water. The process is the same for all of them. I soaked the pot, move on, come back
and soak it again, and the same a third time. This pretty much insures they are getting saturated. I also pick most of them up to see the weight of the plant.

They all get fertilized on the same schedule with the same fertilizer.

Besides these six, I have another 95 trees that are not dropping their fruit which get the same water and fertilizer.

Pino, so far all six trees are dropping all their fruit except for one breba earlier in the season.

I am experiencing daily heavy rains and so far none are dropping but I am worried about splitting and/or souring. Time will tell in another month.

Mike-

I wish I could help you.  You seem to have covered all the variables.  If you find out what's what, let us know. 

It has to be some sort of stress, and my gut tells me it's cultural, and not variety specific.  Only a small percentage of your trees are performing poorly, and yet all your trees are essentially  growing under the same conditions.  I can understand your frustration.  After all, you're no newbie. Either are the other growers with some of the same problems.  Yet,  something's going on that's not fully understood.  But what, and why?

I am out of ideas.


Frank

Not good that the 6 dropped all their fruit.  Are the leaves also wilted?

Given the discussions above could overwatering be an issue?  You are Zone 8A so likely no winter damage to these trees.

Frank, thanks so much for providing all your knowledge to try and solve this. It really doesn't add up. It is seven different varieties so
you are also right on that too. Its apparently not the maturity of the tree since they are any where from five to fifteen gallons and
two to five years old.

My initial thoughts are trying to go total organic but that really doesn't add up either since they all receive the same organic
fertilizer and amounts.

Frank (from the Bronx!)

Regarding your comment regarding heated roots in containers: something does not square. First, everybody seems to think heat is such a good thing. Second, this has BY no means been a summer of unusual warmth. We actually have not had an actual heat wave in the northeast, although I grant you, it has been warm (in a perfectly normal sense). It has obviously not been cool, despite our nightmare winter. From May 1st onward temps have been perfectly normal. And I think that goes for most of the eastern seaboard, including Georgia. So while it is hotter there, I find it hard to accept the heat theory as causing the fruit drop. Just my 2 cents. I hope you are well and thank you for your thoughts.

Pino, no wilting. Actually all the trees appear very healthy and have
what would appear to be a nice looking crop.

Hi Rafael-

Thing are going OK, and thank God, my new trees are not a disappointment...so far.  Thanks for your interesting comments.

I would have a tendency to agree with you up to a certain point.  It is true that our summer weather has not been broiling hot, but containers, especially, black plastic containers, can hold heat, and the internal temperature of the mix could soar well above ambient temps when the sun shines directly on them.  Roots can shut down, and stop working above certain temps and delicate feeder roots can be badly damaged.  Then water and food intake can be compromised, and the trees will be stressed.

Figs do love the heat, but that's if roots are in the cool ground, or are not over heated, but shielded from blazing sun.  Growing containerized figs on a hot cement slab or on a  broiling black-topped driveway, is a lot different than putting containers on top of a cool lawn.  I have no direct, measurable proof, and I've only been growing in containers since 2007, so my experiences are limited.  This I do know: containerized figs are very easily stressed from heat and lack of water and stressed far more quickly than in-ground trees.  Even with plenty of attention and nurturing, sometimes my containerized trees looked stressed and crappy, while my neighbor's in-ground trees never missed a beat, even through periods of blistering heat with little or, no rain.  Why?  Probably cool, moist, undamaged roots?

I guess it would take some controlled experiments to find the optimal growing temperatures for our figs. Specifically, at what temperatures are the roots working at their most efficient levels.

I also know this:  Every time I think I definitely know something, I find out that my conclusions were faulty, or just plain wrong.


Frank

Yes Frank you make a good point, and almost all my containers are black plastic. But one of my stressed trees is in. 25 gal white pot. The other stressed tree I am tempted to say I may have made a mistake by not properly mixing the soil mix, such that there are "strata" or layers of sand and granular limestone alternating with pro mix. I do not use hydrated lime, so I didnt burn the roots, but I can't help but think I may have stressed it by my own foolish mistake. Also, the tree is just freakishly large. Maybe it is not putting on figs because it is just too damn large, even for a 20 gal container. Glad to hear all your babies are doing well.

Raf-

Good luck with your trees.  There seems to be no good reasons why some trees get stressed, and others don't, even when grown with the same culture.  It just does not seem logical, but yet, it happens. 

I cross my fingers, and light a few candles at the beginning of each season, and hope the containerized trees live throughout the season.  I consider getting figs, in any amount, a big reward for my efforts.  But I love growing figs, so that's what I try to do.  I take the failures and occasional triumphs with a grain of salt.

It's always good to have these kind of discussions and exchanges of ideas.


Frank

Anytime any of my trees starts misbehaving I dose everyone with Azomite and seaweed or kelp with fish and vitamins. I have a lot of trees (over 400) so it ain't cheap but  . . . well, that's how I deal with it and it certainly works. Am I over-spending? Maybe.
More and more I'm replacing expensive supplements with bunny poop and it seems to be a great solution.
Bunny poop is just incredible. Google it.

Apparently, this fig-dropping issue is beyond any (San Pedro/Smyrna) fig-wasp caprification needs ...
Sorry, I cannot explain for the other (Common) figs; other than a less than good perfect micro climate.

Logic tells me it is either climatic, cultural, or both.  Lousy weather, high heat, cooked roots, no rain, the planets aren't in perfect alignment.....  Without controlled testing, any comments will always be nothing but opinions, and speculation, especially when it comes to containerized fig trees.

If aborted figs was a variety-specific thing, then many more growers of that same, problematic variety, would be cryin' over spilt figs....much like they do when their "Celeste" trees suddenly drop a load of figs.

But, then again, I could be very wrong.


Frank

Mike,
IMO, I would say that it is a water issue. There may be a problem with the roots accessing the water, either they are damaged, have growth issues or are root bound. I had three potted trees drop figs last year and it was due to a lack of water to the roots, they were root bound and the root balls were never properly saturated with water even though they were watered daily. Good Luck.

Pete, I appreciate your comments as I do with all the others. However, the two large trees in 15 gallon pots were just up potted and roots checked in April this year. I would think
its very doubtful that they are root bound or not getting the water this soon. Also, as I stated in post #11 two of the trees dropping the fruit are in ground. They are watered
regularly and are mulched well so I don't see a water issue there. Not saying either of these are impossible, just not likely.