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Fruit Rich Fig Poor

Well maybe not fruit rich yet but I am trying a lot of different fruiting plants. Hopefully I successfully attached a PDF of what I am growing and looking to arrange some exchanges later on in the dormant season. This is one of my track sheets and not really a trade sheet. Many of my plants are young and not producing yet and a few things on my list are not doing well like my bunch grapes. Anything with a gone in the title means dead. Some things are still under Plant Patent as well.  If you have interest just ask about it. I am mainly looking for Figs as listed below. My current figs are listed on the PDF as well. I have not traded much on the forum, mostly sending out non-fig material, but I hope those folks are happy with what they received.  I am not a very successful rooter, so if you have a duplicate started small plant that would be a plus for me.  I have gotten a little better success rooting, mostly due to reading this forum, The figs I am looking for in a rough order of desire.  RDB, Adriatic JH, Scott's Black, Stella, Bataglia Green, Hollier,  Florea, Dark Portuguese, Parfum De Cafards. There are others I have interest in as well so not limited to those.

Best Figs to all

two questions... How much land are you growing on?  What is the age range of your trees?

The field I am growing in is about 3 acres.  Some of that is not usable, and all of it needs to be reworked after being depleted.  The soil is very alkaline as we sit on top of limestone.  I have mostly figs, but have been planting pomegranates, peaches, apricots, nectarines, asian pears and european pears.  In the coming months I am planning on adding some persimmons (I'm not a fan, but the rest of my family is), middle eastern/far east apricots, mulberries, blackberries and more of what I already have.  I would love to plant fuzzy kiwi, but I think I am on the southern edge of their growing range, and they seem to be heavy water users (we are still in drought).  I am open to suggestions for other fruit which will do well here.

I am new to the fig Fever I like reading this forum to gain knowledge about figs, varieties, and Planting.
to James
In you zone you can plant LOQUAT it is eastern, middle eastern fruit. I am trying to grow here in New York I hope to Succeed, it should survive better in above zone 7 climate.
Mark

Most of my in-ground planting are located at my cabin property which is 10 acres with about 3 acres open creek bottom land, the rest is heavily wooded.  My present residence is on heavy shaded acre with nothing much in ground there excepting a few kiwi and my potted figs and citrus, I will be moving from this location and close Oct 1st on my new residence that is 9+ acres and probably half that is open land so  I will have significant space to plant. I had planed on moving full time to my cabin with my plantings, but plans changed, and for now at least I will be growing on both sites.

The trees at my cabin property range from age from several  nuts trees being planted in 1998, fruiting  trees begin planting in fall 2008 through last spring.  Some things planted last spring I will try and move to my new location this winter. I purchased 12 new persimmon cultivar from Just Fruits and Exotics which was my major expansion last year and they will be moved. A lot of what I am trying will probably do better for you in Texas then for me here. Some things like the Pineapple Guava might never survive here, but they made in through last winter with no damage. Persimmon does well in Texas as I understand. Pomegranates should do great in Texas, and I would think Muscadines would as well. I only have one mature Fuzzy kiwi but you are welcome to cuttings. It is at my present residence and have it growing up a tree in to much shade, and it right now is 30-40+ up into the tree, last time it got that high I pruned it back to 6 feet. I never even see blooms on it I believe because of the shade, my male Fuzzy died regardless, and I have heard differing opinions if a male hardy will pollinate it.  I did start some Golden Fuzzy Kiwi (Chinensis I believe) from seed but they will never be cold hardy for me here I fear. Have you ever tried the Golden kiwi, they are excellent and taste distinctly different from the standard fuzzy kiwi.

Lebmark, the loquat tree is somewhat winter hardy, I'm not sure about it growing in NY, but the tree blooms during the winter and the flowers are not winter hardy. So maybe you can grow the tree but I doubt that you will make fruit.
"gene"

real garden of eden
bets of luck

Between Games...

I wish you luck with your trees, of whichever fruit they are.  I think you have zone envy, as do I.  So many things I want to grow, but the climate limits it.  It only freezes here for a day or two once every 10 years.  Never snows. 

That very fact limits my fruiting wishes.  Figs are no problem.  They love it here, but... Apples?  Pears?  Cherries...yummy Cherries.......???? NO! 

I think you need grapes that are cold friendly, and there are a few!

Good luck!

Suzi

Gene, I met somebody in Brooklyn that has this tree and it was (Four or Five years ago) around 15 to 20 feet tall, and he did not complain that it was not fruiting. I already have the tree, got on eBay , and I do have it in pot, I contemplating to planet it in ground now or march, I appreciate your suggestion.
Mark

 Hey Phil,

You know I can help out with some of those.  I started a couple RdB airlayers this weekend and I definietly have a little stumpy Dk Portugeuse I can kick your way.  I have some good structure on JH Adriatic and expect to be able to airlayer early next year.  I have a Scott's Black I just planted in our community garden after airlayering one off.  I kept one airlayer and sent one to a forum member looking earlier this year - the one I kept may be available for airlayer or cuttings at end of year.

Most of what I'm interested in of yours is in the "Misc Fruits" section.

Thanks Jason,
A great plus being local. Let me know what specifically you are interested in.     

Gene is correct about Loquat. The tree is stated quite hardy to the low teens F. ,  but it flowers fall into winter and I think the flowers/fruit are lost above 20 F, but surprisingly enough, some years it manages to fruit here north of Atlanta. The picture is some I picked late spring 2011, and they were so good. I used to grow them years ago in Florida.  I have tasted many that were not anything special as well. I don’t have any select grafted cultivar present, but I have some seedlings from those fruit pictured, they are small and potted and still in my nursery area. These fruit/ flowers would have pretty much  have to survived temps in the lower teens if I am recalling the winter 2010-2011 correct, and I thought maybe I had found a more cold hardy selection, but when I posted about it on a local Atlanta fruit forum it seems several folks local had loquats fruiting that year.

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Your Jujube, Gooseberry and Goumi are of most interest.  The Miracle berry is tempting, but not sure how practical it would be and/or how fruitful.  Pretty sure I got a couple twigs of Illinois Everbearing cuttings from you at the grafting class/scion swap... and the two I got to root were knocked off my front porch with some Niagara grape cuttings I got at the same place (all five in 1gal pots, squirrels are likely culprits), and five viable plants turned into only one surviving really fast, so ... still looking for one of those.

Sounds Good Jason,

Those are all planted in-ground at Ellijay. The Goumi were just planted this spring from Just Fruits and Exotics. I have a single plant each of Goumi Red Gem and Goumi Sweet Scarlet. They grew well and even flowered and kept a few fruit which they lost in a late freeze but the plants grew well. I will have to see if they can be air-layered.  I can defiantly get you scion wood for Sherwood and LI Jujube, maybe another as well. I will have to see how much the branches I grafted on 2 other cultivar have grown.  I don’t believe Jujube cuttings can be rooted easily, so you might need rootstock as well, which I might be able to provide as that same late freeze killed one of my 2 eight foot Sherwood to the ground. I was very surprised as they are listed hardy to well below zero, but it was in active growth and that changes everything.  It has put out some new growth as suckers from the roots and thinking those could be dug as rootstock. I have 3 Pixwell gooseberries and you can have them. They are of the size that can be dug easily. I don’t have them in an ideal setting and they have not fruited yet.  They are a fruit with some shade tolerance and I planted them at the woodlands edge on a bank.  Illinois Everbearing mulberry I will have cuttings again although I have not had luck rooting them, if you have seedling mulberry around they graft easy. I might have a couple other Mulberries available. I failed rooting Pakistan, but was successful with Shangri La and Middleton. I had Pakistan grafted on my I.E. tree but deer broke it off, so I have on order for next spring, so Akram if you are reading I know you posted about wanting Pakistan a while back and I told you I planed on ordering and I will remember. If you plan on heading up North for a fall family drive, and you would like to stop by the plantings in Ellijay let me know maybe I could meet you up there. I will be busy moving, but at least I am shortening my commute my new residence will be in the Jasper area.

Mine fruited as well.  This last year, that late Feb blast killed the fruit for this year.

James, I would suggest Casimiroa pringlei., the version that's hardy to zone 8-7.  Butterfly food, at least edible fruit, medicinal properties.

You can also try certain cold hearty guavas, thinking mostly of Chilean etc...

Strudeldog, I see you grow a lot of persimmons. I understand they are pretty low care without sprays is that your experience with them. I am looking for fruits I don't have to spray  I think we are pretty much in the same area and would like to know which ones you prefer.

Pepe,

 

Persimmon is low care relative to a lot of trees and most people don’t spray them at all. They are one of my favorite fruit to grow. Your biggest concern if borderline 6/7 would be cold hardiness, but many people zone 6 grow them without issues, The biggest problem I have had was a late spring cold spell after  last years very warm winter, I had probably 4 cultivars that I thought I was going to taste for the first time but everything was in full bloom when hit, and many were just planted last spring and many were knocked back.

 

 As to taste I like both astringent and non-astringent. The non-astringent (you can eat when hard)  I find  most cultivar similar in taste if picked at the same stage of ripeness. The astringent differ a little more in taste and texture to my palate.  I have tasted a lot more cultivars then those from my own trees. If you are looking for Scionwood I can provide some for you. If you want you could stop by my plantings some time as you stated you are in my area.

 

Below is a readout I posted on another forum regarding how the cultivars did in after a relative light freeze LATE freeze.

 

In review of the damage of late spring light freeze around 27 F after extended warm spring. I had 30+ trees in ground, but only one of most cultivars which is not sufficient to fully evaluate. In particular when the cultivar I have multiples of did not all fare the same. I have Fuyu from 5 different sources, although one appears to me to be Jiro (called Fuyu sometimes on west coat). For instance 2 Fuyu trees planted 15 feet apart from same source same day in 2009 seemingly identical in vigor and health. One tree dead to the ground with only below ground rootstock shoots recovering, the other total loss of foliage but minimal wood damage and fully re-leafed. With that in mind below is report of how my different cultivars seemed to manage the late freeze after growth had started. I don't recall which cultivars were just breaking bud as opposed to being fully leafed but I believe that probably factored in damage. My plantings are located in small creek valley of bottom land with high ridgeline to both sides. My setting/micro-climate is not ideal, but my bottom land is cleared and my higher sloping land is fully forested so it's the space I have available present. I plan on moving later this year to a location I can reside with my plantings. My current plantings are about an hour drive from my residence, and initially I hope to manage both sites. Probably too much information but the difference in temperature in within a few hundred feet with a elevation change can be significant and I believe is more informative then the actual cultivar results.

All trees were completely defoliated with the exception of Rosseyanka and Tamopan. Rosseyanka was not a surprise faring the best, but Tamopan was. Again limited data(1 tree) is of limited value.

Fuyu - In general my Fuyu took more damage then most, 2 trees took minimal wood lose, 3 trees totally lost above graft, and others took significant wood loss. The reason I have so many Fuyu trees, as it is the most widely available tree and among my oldest trees aging from 2009 2010
Matsumoto Wase Fuyu - 2010 trees 1 tree dead to graft, 1 tree major wood loss, 1 tree limited wood loss
Izu - 1st year tree limited wood loss, 2010 Fuyu grafted over to Izu limited wood loss
Eureka - 2010 tree moderate wood loss
Great Wall - 2010 tree minimal wood loss
Saijo - 2010 tree minimal to no wood loss
Tamopan - 2009 tree retained around 50% foliage minimal wood loss. Abnominally? Never heard this tree reported as hardy, but it is an older larger tree, but so were the Fuyu beside it.
Jiro - 2010 tree lost to below graft

1st year tree limited wood loss
Rosseyanka Retained significant foliage, maybe no wood loss
Nikita's Gift
Izu
Ichikikeijiro

1st year tree significant wood loss
Giombo
Sheng
Maekawa Jiro


1st year tree Major wood loss
Hachiya
Hao River
Unknown Huge PCNA
Tanennashi

Young grafts still in pots protected
Giomba (same as Giombo? Listed separate on UC Davis source site)
Okugosho
Tam Kam
Suruga
Cheintang

How do you like the Clementine Du Nules?  I'm thinking of getting one.  My citrus winter indoors under lights.

I like it Bob. I have 2 small trees in smaller pots that shuttle in through colder periods and they are just about ripe now. I only get a few fruits off each but they are wonderful. I believe this is one of the cultivars that shows up as "Cuties" locally for me, but I might be incorrect on that.

 Is there any Persimmon variety that can grow in Zone 5a  ?

Hi Akram,
Grimo has some varieties that he lists as suitable for zones 5B-8

Akram,

nuttrees dot com out of Niagara area also lists some and says zones 4-8

Tyler

Grant/Tyler
Thanks for your input.
I have Yates and what Grimo called 'Oriental' in ground and they have not moved past 12" height. Hopefully they will realize their fate and start moving up.
One of these re-sprouted under the graft (dead above graft) and I am allowing it to grow just to experiment.

I don't think any Asian would make it 5a without some winter protection,  but I know of at least one individual that is trying and details what he is doing in the linked thread
Kaki and Hybrid Persimmons winter protection for Zone 5A

You mention grafting, so I guess I can't start persimmon from cuttings and root them? 

Pepe,
Sorry for the late reply, just saw your question. Rooting persimmon is not easy if even possible. I believe I have read of folks successful, but persimmons is a grafting game. If someone else has been successful rooting persimmon please let me know I would be interested in the detail.

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